klr overheating, and rear brake mushy?

[Todd Larson]

Hello All: With my tank off today, I noticed that the plate which the tank mounts to (below the seat) has cracked free on the left side (just above the weld). This seems peculiar to me because my tank is free of dents, so no large impacts to it... must be vibration? The [obvious] solution that will [permanently] fix the problem, would be to grind of the paint and weld along the break. What I was wondering is: 1) Does anyone have any easier ideas that might work? (I don't weld, and assume it may be difficult to arrange this job at a shop, I could be wrong about this.) 2) What is JB Weld like? How well might it hold/work in the application? Thanks for your thoughts. Todd A17 ____________________________________________________ Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

[Eric L. Green]

On Mon, 8 Aug 2005, Todd Larson wrote:

> The [obvious] solution that will [permanently] fix the > problem, would be to grind of the paint and weld along > the break. What I was wondering is: > > 1) Does anyone have any easier ideas that might work? > (I don't weld, and assume it may be difficult to > arrange this job at a shop, I could be wrong about > this.)

Don't assume. The shock mount on the top of my shock tower tore off when I hit a big pothole with my 1981 Chevrolet Chevette. I steel-brushed all the rust and paint off of everything with a drill-mounted brush, grabbed a 110v wire welder, and welded it back on, then once I wire-brushed the flux off, shot everything with rattle-can primer. Whole thing took maybe 30 minutes max, and most of that was spent searching for the heavy-duty extension cord for the wire welder and gathering my gear together. It lasted until I sold the car several years later. Thicker stock like this is *easy* to weld. It's not like sheet metal, that's a PITA because it wants to buckle and you gotta worry about cosmetics and try to do it with as little grinding and bondo needed afterwards, but with something like this where you don't give a flyin' flip about cosmetics... man, any dude with a wire welder will just RIP through it. Any welding shop can weld that sucker back together in 5 minutes flat. Just open your local Yellow Pages to "W" for "Welding" and let yer fingers do the walkin'... just remember you're going to need to primer then paint the area afterwards. -E

[Chris Krok]

> From: Todd Larson > Subject: Broken Tank Mount > > Hello All: > > With my tank off today, I noticed that the plate which > the tank mounts to (below the seat) has cracked free > on the left side (just above the weld). This seems > peculiar to me because my tank is free of dents, so no > large impacts to it... must be vibration?

Check your subframe mounts, too... This can occur when the subframe goes south. Krokko -- Dr. J. Christopher Krok Explosion Dynamics Laboratory John Lucas Adaptive Wind Tunnel Caltech MS 205-45, Pasadena, CA 91125

[Todd Larson]

--- Chris Krok wrote:

> > > From: Todd Larson > > Subject: Broken Tank Mount > > > > Hello All: > > > > With my tank off today, I noticed that the plate > which > > the tank mounts to (below the seat) has cracked > free > > on the left side (just above the weld). This > seems > > peculiar to me because my tank is free of dents, > so no > > large impacts to it... must be vibration? > > Check your subframe mounts, too... This can occur > when the subframe > goes south. > > Krokko

Oh boy... Thanks, I'll definitely be checking into that. I don't think so, though, everything seemed solid. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com

[fasteddiecopeman]

2) Rear brake needs considerable pedal travel before becoming effective.

> From the manual, the adjusting nut is only for adjusting pedal height, not > travel. It doesn't feel like a 'mushy' pedal like it needs bleeding - brakes > work well once you get your foot pointing pretty far downward on that pedal. > The pedal is oriented on the splines OK - the marks line up well.

Jeff, I've got the same problem, but a buddy's solution is to add about a 3/4" block of wood on top of the pedal part so that you don't move your foot so far to get brakes happening. I'll weld a piece on mine. ed

[Chris Krok]

> Oh boy... > > Thanks, I'll definitely be checking into that. I > don't think so, though, everything seemed solid.

Sorry, didn't mean to scare you! It's just a possibility, and something worth checking to be sure. Krokko -- Dr. J. Christopher Krok Explosion Dynamics Laboratory John Lucas Adaptive Wind Tunnel Caltech MS 205-45, Pasadena, CA 91125