butterfly valve and parts

[goaway_dog]

Hey Ya'll, I wanted to know if anyone in the SF Bay area was interested in hosting a tech/mech day. I used to do this with the Corrado club and we would swap tech tips, tune and generally help each other out with repairs, upgrades etc... Things I would like to do include standard tune up (oil, filter, spark plug), install steal braided brake lines ( I now live on a hill making these small tasks virtually impossible) meet other local KLR owners and talk about rides done and rides to do. Anyway, if anyone is interested let me know, we used to support the hoster by bringing food and drinks, tools and general clean up after. -Charlie (now on my 3rd KLR)

[Bill Emmack]

I live in San Francisco, also on a hill, and would love to do this. If someone's got the space, I'll bring beer and sausages... BE --- goaway_dog wrote:

> Hey Ya'll, > I wanted to know if anyone in the SF Bay area was interested in > hosting a tech/mech day. I used to do this with the Corrado club and > we would swap tech tips, tune and generally help each other out with > repairs, upgrades etc... Things I would like to do include standard > tune up (oil, filter, spark plug), install steal braided brake lines > ( > I now live on a hill making these small tasks virtually impossible) > meet other local KLR owners and talk about rides done and rides to > do. > Anyway, if anyone is interested let me know, we used to support the > hoster by bringing food and drinks, tools and general clean up after. > -Charlie (now on my 3rd KLR) > > > > > Archive Quicksearch at: > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > >

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[April Neave & Norm Keller]

> > Okay, I buggered up the aluminum plate of the butterfly valve.. and I > need the pivot and related parts. I don't see that in the KLR > microfische.. do they not sell it as an independent part? What am I > supposed to do for replacement parts, then?

I haven't checked the parts lists so am just shooting from the hip but I would be surprised if the choke plate, choke shaft, etc. are available as they are not for most carbs. The problem with replacement of the choke plate/shaft or throttle plate/shaft is to align the plate within the shaft so that it does not bind in the throttle bore. The factories seem to believe that this process is beyond the ability of anyone but the factory. I suppose an additional reason is that there is really no need to replace this part unless it has been savaged by someone since the plate does not wear. If the choke shaft and related bores in the carb body are worn the manufacturer's recommendation in most cases is to replace the carb assembly. Some specialty automotive shops used to machine and re-bush throttle shafts for Rochester Quadra-jets and the like but you will be hard put to find anyone still doing that since automotive carbs have virtually disappeared. If I can manage to phrase the question in a neutral manner, "What ever happened to damage the choke plate or shaft?" My bet is that you're looking for a replacement carb.... FWIW, Norm P.S. Just in case you are lucky enough to obtain parts: The typical throttle or choke plate is retained to the shaft by means to two screws. The screws are always (can't remember a case of hundreds of carbs...) retained by riveting over the end of the screw to prevent it coming loose. The riveting can be very radically done so that the only way to remove the screws is generally to grind or file the end of the screw back to the throttle shaft. IN some cases you will find that the screws are swelled up into the shaft such that they still will not turn even if the riveted end of the screw is ground away. Having removed the screws without twisting them off in the shaft or damaging the shaft, the throttle or choke plate can be removed from the shaft but you should have marked the plate before starting to remove the screws. While this is more important with two or four plates than one it still can make things easier during reassembly. Do whatever you were going to do before deciding to shoot yourself in the foot (VBG) oh, I mean before you started to try to remove the plates. Now locate new screws or at least make sure that sufficient of the old screws is left so that the ends can be riveted over. Having a screw come out and enter the cylinder will be less fulfilling that some other firsts in one's life, trust me! Try the screws in the holes to make sure that they go in easily and will tighten securely. It is easier to fight with the screws and shaft if they are out of the carb. Put the plate into place in or slipped through the split in the shaft (if of that type) and start each screw. With the screws almost snugged down, gently close the throttle/choke and slightly snug each screw. Open the plate (it will be easier to say "choke" but the same applies to the throttle plate of carbs which use one) slightly and close it again while checking for binding. I may be necessary to reach in from the other side with a Phillips screwdriver or rod and tap the plate to make it easier to open rather than to force it open by means of the shaft if it is stuck in the bore. If it binds, close the choke again, release and snug the screws and recheck for binding. Repeat as necessary until the choke opens without binding in the bore. Note that there is a difference between binding due to misalignment and the plate's normal tendency to wedge in the bore when tightly closed. It is best to avoid forcing the choke tightly closed as this will always cause it to bind. Once you are satisfied that the choke plate is correctly aligned you will need to rivet the protruding threaded end of each screw. I have had the most luck by placing a heavy punch or rod vertically into a bench vise and then placing the carb down over the punch such that the end of the punch is against the head end of the screw. Next use a light hammer (2 or 4 ounce) and a punch to rivet the end of the screw thread to prevent the screw turning out. You will want to avoid creating a fracture point in the riveted material such that the piece later breaks off! It is critical that the force be applied only along the axis of the screw and only to the screw or you risk bending the choke shaft. Recheck for binding and do the other screw. This is almost, not quite, as difficult to accomplish as one fears but almost is the key word..... If you undertake the process and I can be of any help, please email directly as it would be great if you can avoid having to buy a complete carb...... HIH Norm