idle mixture

[bjoggi308]

Here is an update on my work preparing my KLR for Alaska this spring. I started tearing the bike apart a week ago but did not make much progress this weekend cause my wife broke her collar bone in a relatively minor crash on her Suzuki RF900. She is in pain, and the bike has only cosmetic damage, but now my `extra' time is spend on laundry and cooking. Man, 4 kids is a LOT of work I removed the outer left side cover and the rotor assembly. When I removed the doohickey adjustment bolt, there was no movement of the mechanism so I thought I had done a good job adjusting it so far. Well I was wrong. When I removed the inner cover I noticed that the cir-clip, that holds back the lever that the spring connects to, was missing. I guess the inner cover held it in place, but when I started trying to remove the spring, the lever snapped back, and the spring finally took up the slack. So my conclusion is that whenever I loosened the adjustment bolt, they lever and spring did not put tension on the chain mechanism, thus the tension was never adjusted. I got a cir-clip and put in the longer spring from the Eagle kit. It was shorter than OEM so I figured that it would put plenty of tension on the lever for now. Then I reassembled everything except he outer cover, as I'm waiting on my local dealer to get a replacement Rotor Bolt. Then I focused on the right side, and removed the water-pump impeller. What a mess. Antifreeze everywhere. Cleanup delayed the side cover removal, and I then found the drain bolt on the water- pump. Man it sure would have been nice to know about that before I disconnected the hoses . While removing the right side cover, I kept saying to myself that I'm probably just paranoid and that I don't need to be doing this. Well when I finally removed the oil- screen, I was sure glad I did. The screen had tons of liquid gasket material, as well as numerous metal shavings/fragments, blocking at least 50% of the screen. I took some pics, but don't know how to post them yet. After re-assembly of the right side, I decided to order a new impeller o-ring so the pump is not fully assembled yet. So then I decided to take the valve cover off and check the calve clearances. The bike was serviced by a dealer @ around 700 miles, so I thought that this might be a waste of time as well. Wrong again. The intakes measured 5 and 5 with a 260 shim underneath. The exhaust side measured 6 on the right and 3 on the left with a 260 and a 265 shim respectively. So needless to say, I'm sure glad (again) that I decided to do the valve adjustment even though the bike only has 5K miles on it. I sure hope that I have not burned the valve seat or the valve itself. I'd hate to have to take the head off at this point. So now I have 3 260 and 1 265 shims available if someone needs them. I put together a handy shim-calculating Excel spread sheet and determined that I need 2 255's for the intake, and 2 250 for the exhaust to bring me to max-spec (slappy = happy . I decided to get an extra 255 just in case going from a 265 to a 250 resulted in an overly large gap on the Left exhaust valve. I also got a good deal on the stainless screw kits from desmoparts and I have been slowly changing out bolts as I come across them. My father in-law did some enhancements to his KLR OEM exhaust and sent it to me to try it out. He swore he got 5+ MPG better with the `not so aggressive' modifications, so I can't wait to try it out. Here are some other things that I have done: Side Stand Big-foot weld-on. Side stand sensor removal (not just bypass) T-Mod on the Carb. Here is a list of the things that are on the docket: Lite-sub-frame bold upgrade and lock-tite New Shift lever + weld/upgrade old one for backup. Magnetic Drain-Plug. 3mm Tubes Heated Grips Bar Snake (might skip this one) Headlight guard Waterproof ATO fuse kit ATO Fan fuse replacement Chain-Adjuster Nuts replacement New Chain and Sprocket Corbin Flat seat. Shroud nuts enhancements Temp Sensor by-pass kit for backup. New Tires (Avon Gripsters ??) I currently run dunlop 607's and love them despite their short life. That about sums it up. Suggestions and comments are encouraged. -Bjoggi in PDX 2003 A17 1999 TL1000R (For Balance)

[Jud Jones]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "bjoggi308" wrote:

> > > My father in-law did some enhancements to his KLR OEM exhaust and > sent it to me to try it out. He swore he got 5+ MPG better with > the `not so aggressive' modifications, so I can't wait to try it out. > > That about sums it up. Suggestions and comments are encouraged.

So your father-in-law modifies for better mileage rather than more power. How refreshing.

[Thor Lancelot Simon]

On Wed, Mar 02, 2005 at 12:39:27AM -0000, bjoggi308 wrote:

> > I removed the outer left side cover and the rotor assembly. When I > removed the doohickey adjustment bolt, there was no movement of the > mechanism so I thought I had done a good job adjusting it so far. > Well I was wrong. When I removed the inner cover I noticed that the > cir-clip, that holds back the lever that the spring connects to, was > missing. I guess the inner cover held it in place, but when I

What cir-clip? On an A17? Thor

[April Neave & Norm Keller]

Some basic aspects of air-fuel mixture. An engine will run better on a mixture which is slightly richer than stochoimetric which is 14.7:1 by weight for air to gasoline. Stochiometric will give the best efficiency in most engines because air and fuel are balanced but a slight increase in fuel (rich mixture) will produce more power. Since air is forced into a normally aspirated (not supercharged) engine by atmospheric pressure, the limitation is on how much air can be intaked to the combustion chamber. Since fuel is so much more dense than air, far more fuel can be taken into the combustion chamber than can be burned by the available air (oxygen). An increase in power can be achieved by the use of a richer (more fuel than 14.7) mixture but the gain will begin to drop off once the mixture is richened beyond a certain point. The reason for this is that the increase in mass of fuel-air mixture due to the extra fuel begins to absorb more heat than is liberated by attempting to burn the extra fuel. Given that a bit richer mixture will give more power it is easy to get into the trap of adjusting mixture for maximum power which can result in decreased efficiency (reduced mileage). Adjusting the idle air screw out until the highest idle speed at that throttle opening will always result in a rich mixture which will reduce gas mileage to some degree. An alternate method is to adjust idle mixture until the engine reaches the highest speed at that throttle opening (idle speed screw setting) and then to turn the idle mixture screw in slowly until the idle speed drops about 50 RPM. This will give a mixture closer to ideal and so better mileage. The same is true of the main metering circuit however this adjustment is hard to achieve without use of an exhaust gas analyzer. Just some ramblings FWIW. Norm

[bjoggi308]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jud Jones" wrote:

> > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "bjoggi308"

wrote:

> > > > > > > My father in-law did some enhancements to his KLR OEM exhaust

and

> > sent it to me to try it out. He swore he got 5+ MPG better with > > the `not so aggressive' modifications, so I can't wait to try it

out.

> > > > That about sums it up. Suggestions and comments are encouraged. > > > So your father-in-law modifies for better mileage rather than more

power. How refreshing. LOL, I know what you mean. I firmly believe in function comes first, and power/looks are secondary for most all things.