heated gloves

[Arden Kysely]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., Devon Jarvis wrote:

> My water pump has been dripping for a little while now, slowly > increasing. I've been gradually adding coolant to keep up with it,

but

> it's almost time to just replace the seal. > > Anyone who has replaced the water pump seals, I would also like to

hear

> your advice. I will take photos when I change mine. > > Devon > A15

It's been ages since I replaced the mechanical water pump seal on my old A1, but I think I just went by the book. I do remember that there's an oil seal as well as the water pump seal, so buy both. I think you just remove the water pump housing, pry out the old and press in the new, wetting the new seal with coolant for lubrication. The former owner of my A11 had two or three seals go bad until a mechanic thoroughly flushed his coolant system. If your seal is leaking, especially on a newer KLR, a good flush is probably in order. __Arden

[Zachariah Mully]

On Mon, 2002-11-04 at 14:34, Allan Patton wrote:

> I thought I had seen a procedure for replacing the water pump seal.

Maybe not. I have searched my bookmarks and can't find a procedure for it. Is there one? http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Brand/Kawasaki/klr%20650%20water%20pump%20seal.htm

> > Questions for anyone who has replaced the seal before. How did you

know it was time to replace it? Did it start to drip, or did it let go all at once? How do you remove the old seal? What is the proper way to install the new seal?

> > All these questions are unnecessary if someone can direct me to a

procedure. I'm not a mechanic, but I did replace the doohickey and adjust the valves using the procedures here.

> > Thanks, > > Allan A14 >

First, don't buy the replacement seal from Dual-Star. For $38 it's a ripoff, RonAyers has them for ~$8. Next a deep socket works well as a seal driver. Again, no need to buy the "billet" seal driver from Dual-Star. Just follow the service manual procedures and remember to lube the seal with some coolant, or you can damage it when you put it on. While you're at it, you might as well flush your cooling system and put in some of the pretty orange stuff. That'll prevent any old crud from fouling your new seal. I seem to remember there being an oil seal in there as well, it should be replaced. Z DC

[ron criswell]

In my recent quest to find the missing chunk of metal from my doohickey failure, I pulled the clutch cover, found no metal, fished around more with a magnet to no avail. Suggestions? Plus, my water pump seal looks to be needed to replaced (again). I think there is a link to this and I want to do it correctly. anybody know the link? Criswell

[Mark St.Hilaire, Sr]

> In my recent quest to find the missing chunk of metal from my doohickey > failure, I pulled the clutch cover, found no metal, fished around more > with a magnet to no avail. Suggestions?

Is it a large chunk? I wonder if it could have come out in an oil change? And if you haven't changed the oil lately, maybe doing do and fishing around in the drain hole with a magnet will produce some results...

> Plus, my water pump seal looks to be needed to replaced (again). I think > there is a link to this and I want to do it correctly. anybody know the > link?

Ron, the promised pictures haven't arrived as yet, but I DO have the text for it here: http://klr6500.tripod.com/wpump.htm Mark KLR650 Motorcycle Pages: http://klr6500.tripod.com/ HomePage: http://home.adelphia.net/~msaint/index.html My Adelphia Email can be "iffy." If you don't get a response, please try: KLR6500@...

[Bogdan Swider]

> In my recent quest to find the missing chunk of metal from my doohickey > failure, I pulled the clutch cover, found no metal, fished around more > with a magnet to no avail. Suggestions? >

As I recall we probed around from the left side; now you probed from the right. That's all you can do short of taking the bike to a proctologist. I think that the missing top of the lever was broken into small pieces by the sprockets and flushed out when you changed the oil. Bogdan

[West Hovland]

After pulling the water pump seals I noticed that they "appear" to have been Blue Loctited in. Is this true, or is the sticky crap on the case something else. Thanks for the help West [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Devon]

It's not loctite. Don't remember what it is, but I thought the new seals come with something already on them. I don't have my manuals handy. Devon whovlands@... wrote:

>After pulling the water pump seals I noticed that they "appear" to have been Blue Loctited in. Is this true, or is the sticky crap on the case something else. > >Thanks for the help >West > > >

[kcuf_oohay_666]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "WEST HOVLAND" wrote:

> After pulling the water pump seals I noticed that they "appear" to

have been Blue Loctited in. Is this true, or is the sticky crap on the case something else.

> > Thanks for the help > West > >

I noticed that stuff on mine also. it made the seal a B-itch to remove

[dumbazz650]

No worries, the new part will have the blue sealant already on it. And more than likely, Fred will have 'em in stock. ttfn, MarkB --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "WEST HOVLAND" wrote:

> After pulling the water pump seals I noticed that they "appear" to

have been Blue Loctited in. Is this true, or is the sticky crap on the case something else.

> > Thanks for the help > West > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[kawa_klr650]

Hi there, Has anyone experienced problems with their water pump seal? On a recent trip here in South Africa, I started losing coolant through the little hole in the water pump. It was the water pump seal that wasn't too happy and had to be replaced. Thanks to the extremely poor service of Kawasaki here in South Africa, I was stuck for a week in a town where the average temperature is 35 - 40 degrees in the shade - and there is no shade! And that for a bike with just over 2000 kilometers on the clock and still under warranty. Cheers. Abe