diesel klr info request form

[shirojiro1]

Hi Folks, I just got back in from changing my front brake pads, and I'm a bit concerned regarding uneven pad wear. The pad on the piston side had plenty of material left, but the in-board one was pretty much ready to be changed. I have a Braking 320mm rotor on the bike, and the braking performance has been great here in San Francisco with the hills and all. The anti-rattle spring was where it was supposed to be, and the little arms were hooked around the in-board pad as well. I'm a little perplexed about this. I would have expected that the pad on the piston side might wear a little faster, not the other way around. The only thing that I can think of is that the in-board pad isn't pulling away from the rotor when I let off the brakes. The rotor is mounted solidly, and there is no perceivable warp. The difference in wear was pretty significant (but I didn't put a mic on it or anything...). Oh, and the pads were Galfer Greens. I've replaced them with EBC sintered pads - Scuderia here in SF didn't have Galfers. Anyone else have a similar experience? PS: Happy 4th of July! -S

[bigfatgreenbike]

shirojiro@... wrote:

>Hi Folks, > >I just got back in from changing my front brake pads, and I'm a bit >concerned regarding uneven pad wear. The pad on the piston >side had plenty of material left, but the in-board one was pretty >much ready to be changed. > >

This also happens to me with the rear caliper. The caliper bracket seems to bend over time, leaving the caliper cocked with respect to the rotor (so the pads wear crooked as well). The "dead" pad (the one not moved by the piston) wears VERY fast if the pins that the caliper rides upon are not clean and well greased. One of the drawbacks of the cheaper floating-caliper design is that the caliper bracket and pins are a regular maintainance item. If you ride offroad a lot in the wet, you end up pulling the rear caliper every month or two.

>I have a Braking 320mm rotor on the bike, and the braking >performance has been great here in San Francisco with the hills >and all. > >The anti-rattle spring was where it was supposed to be, and the >little arms were hooked around the in-board pad as well. >

I don't think you had anything mis-installed. Probably just time to pull and clean up the caliper bracket.

> >The difference in wear was pretty significant (but I didn't put a mic >on it or anything...). > >Oh, and the pads were Galfer Greens. > >I've replaced them with EBC sintered pads - Scuderia here in SF >didn't have Galfers. >

I use whatever the local shop has on hand. Galfer Greens were great for the street but I don't recommend them for mud. Devon

[Guest]

--- shirojiro1 wrote:

> You might be having the caliper slider pins hanging

up they tend to stick after awhile i seperate mine from the calipers every other pad change and lube them with molybedenum grease this seems to help the pad wear but its not unusual to have the inner pad wear more than the outer................................. Hi Folks,

> > I just got back in from changing my front brake > pads, and I'm a bit > concerned regarding uneven pad wear. The pad on the > piston > side had plenty of material left, but the in-board > one was pretty > much ready to be changed. > > I have a Braking 320mm rotor on the bike, and the > braking > performance has been great here in San Francisco > with the hills > and all. > > The anti-rattle spring was where it was supposed to > be, and the > little arms were hooked around the in-board pad as > well. > > I'm a little perplexed about this. I would have > expected that the > pad on the piston side might wear a little faster, > not the other way > around. > > The only thing that I can think of is that the > in-board pad isn't > pulling away from the rotor when I let off the > brakes. The rotor is > mounted solidly, and there is no perceivable warp. > > The difference in wear was pretty significant (but I > didn't put a mic > on it or anything...). > > Oh, and the pads were Galfer Greens. > > I've replaced them with EBC sintered pads - Scuderia > here in SF > didn't have Galfers. > > Anyone else have a similar experience? > > PS: Happy 4th of July! > > -S > > > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at > www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris > Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > > > >

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[Mike Torst]

More wear is usually present on the non-piston pad in this design. Proper disk brake maintenance on my bikes includes a complete cleaning and lubing of the mounting bolts (slider pins) and caliper mounting holes as a minimum service. Even a well lubed and cleaned caliper will drag just a bit. Add the debris accumulated from riding, especially off-road, and the issue becomes so apparent that the bolt/caliper maintenance must be done even before pad changes are necessary. Testing the free movement of the caliper housing on the bolt (slider pin) bodies before and after reassembly will affirm whether the caliper slides on the bolts smoothly or 'hangs up' a bit. Fine emery sanding material can be used to smooth the bores and bolt bodies if needed, but an effort should be made to minimize material removal as you do not want the allow the caliper to aggravate the situation and/or become 'loose'. Oh, and clean the inside of the boots too. The use of moly grease or, as I do, Mobile 1 synthetic grease as I use, is a good idea. Lots of heat, ya know... Mike Torst Las Vegas -----Original Message----- From: Darryll "DrDoolittle" Blount [mailto:drdoolittle77630@...] Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2004 2:36 PM To: shirojiro1; DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] uneven brake pad wear? --- shirojiro1 wrote:

> You might be having the caliper slider pins hanging

up they tend to stick after awhile i seperate mine from the calipers every other pad change and lube them with molybedenum grease this seems to help the pad wear but its not unusual to have the inner pad wear more than the outer................................. Hi Folks,

> > I just got back in from changing my front brake > pads, and I'm a bit > concerned regarding uneven pad wear. The pad on the > piston > side had plenty of material left, but the in-board > one was pretty > much ready to be changed. > > I have a Braking 320mm rotor on the bike, and the > braking > performance has been great here in San Francisco > with the hills > and all. > > The anti-rattle spring was where it was supposed to > be, and the > little arms were hooked around the in-board pad as > well. > > I'm a little perplexed about this. I would have > expected that the > pad on the piston side might wear a little faster, > not the other way > around. > > The only thing that I can think of is that the > in-board pad isn't > pulling away from the rotor when I let off the > brakes. The rotor is > mounted solidly, and there is no perceivable warp. > > The difference in wear was pretty significant (but I > didn't put a mic > on it or anything...). > > Oh, and the pads were Galfer Greens. > > I've replaced them with EBC sintered pads - Scuderia > here in SF > didn't have Galfers. > > Anyone else have a similar experience? > > PS: Happy 4th of July! > > -S

[shirojiro1]

Thanks all for the responses! I'm glad that it's "normal" for the non-piston side pad to wear a little more. I took my caliper off again and cleaned up the mounting pins with some brake cleaner and wire wheel on my Dremel. Hopefully, the wear will be more even with this set of pads. FWIW, the EBC sintered pads seem to bite really well, even when I'm using one finger on the front brake while it beds in. I purchased the "R" series, IIRC. thanks again! -shin --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "mike torst" wrote:

> More wear is usually present on the non-piston pad in this design.

Proper

> disk brake maintenance on my bikes includes a complete cleaning and

lubing

> of the mounting bolts (slider pins) and caliper mounting holes as a

minimum

> service. Even a well lubed and cleaned caliper will drag just a

bit. Add the

> debris accumulated from riding, especially off-road, and the issue

becomes

> so apparent that the bolt/caliper maintenance must be done even

before pad

> changes are necessary. > > Testing the free movement of the caliper housing on the bolt

(slider pin)

> bodies before and after reassembly will affirm whether the caliper

slides on

> the bolts smoothly or 'hangs up' a bit. Fine emery sanding

material can be

> used to smooth the bores and bolt bodies if needed, but an effort

should be

> made to minimize material removal as you do not want the allow the

caliper

> to aggravate the situation and/or become 'loose'. Oh, and clean the

inside

> of the boots too. The use of moly grease or, as I do, Mobile 1

synthetic

> grease as I use, is a good idea. Lots of heat, ya know... > > Mike Torst > Las Vegas > > -----Original Message----- > From: Darryll "DrDoolittle" Blount [mailto:drdoolittle77630@y...] > Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2004 2:36 PM > To: shirojiro1; DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] uneven brake pad wear? > > --- shirojiro1 wrote: > > You might be having the caliper slider pins hanging > up they tend to stick after awhile i seperate mine > from the calipers every other pad change and lube them > with molybedenum grease this seems to help the pad > wear but its not unusual to have the inner pad wear > more than the outer................................. > Hi Folks, > > > > I just got back in from changing my front brake > > pads, and I'm a bit > > concerned regarding uneven pad wear. The pad on the > > piston > > side had plenty of material left, but the in-board > > one was pretty > > much ready to be changed. > > > > I have a Braking 320mm rotor on the bike, and the > > braking > > performance has been great here in San Francisco > > with the hills > > and all. > > > > The anti-rattle spring was where it was supposed to > > be, and the > > little arms were hooked around the in-board pad as > > well. > > > > I'm a little perplexed about this. I would have > > expected that the > > pad on the piston side might wear a little faster, > > not the other way > > around. > > > > The only thing that I can think of is that the > > in-board pad isn't > > pulling away from the rotor when I let off the > > brakes. The rotor is > > mounted solidly, and there is no perceivable warp. > > > > The difference in wear was pretty significant (but I > > didn't put a mic > > on it or anything...). > > > > Oh, and the pads were Galfer Greens. > > > > I've replaced them with EBC sintered pads - Scuderia > > here in SF > > didn't have Galfers. > > > > Anyone else have a similar experience? > > > > PS: Happy 4th of July! > > > > -S

[rm@richardmay.net]

On Sun, 4 Jul 2004, shirojiro1 wrote:

>I just got back in from changing my front brake pads, and I'm a bit >concerned regarding uneven pad wear. The pad on the piston side had >plenty of material left, but the in-board one was pretty much ready to be >changed.

Other than keeping the slider pins well-lubed with something like Syl-Glide (hi-temp lithium complex won't work in this application), there isn't much you can do. The OEM calipers are crap. I frequently retire my KLR's pads in a similar condition and have yet to solve the problem. Rear is just as bad, if not worse. RM

[Mike Torst]

A bit extreme RM - (and I like ya) It is not just about making sure the pins/bracket orifices are smooth and within clearance; it is also about ALIGNMENT of the caliper bolt/pins and the use of a correct lubricant. I do not have issues with my 'now-rinsed' A16 and it Galfer green / 320mm front rotor / SS lines, and DOT 4 system. Richard, you know this - if the two bolt/pins are not true, the calipers (floating is such a marketing word) are going to hang a bit. The caliper should be tested for smooth movement on the pins (bolts) as mounted to the mounting bracket. If it hangs, correct it - emery cloth (fine grit). If severe, replace the caliper bolts (pins) or tweak them into alignment (only if you know the know, etc...) I am cheap, so I tweaked one bolt to provide the caliper housing orifice the clearance to slide free in the range of operation relevant Las Vegas PS- rm - have a good trip in California this week. I will miss meeting you - I'll be at Laguna Seca for the races, etc. -----Original Message----- From: rm@... [mailto:rm@...] Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2004 6:13 PM To: shirojiro1 Cc: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] uneven brake pad wear?

On Sun, 4 Jul 2004, shirojiro1 wrote: >I just got back in from changing my front brake pads, and I'm a bit >concerned regarding uneven pad wear. The pad on the piston side had >plenty of material left, but the in-board one was pretty much ready to be >changed. Other than keeping the slider pins well-lubed with something like Syl-Glide (hi-temp lithium complex won't work in this application), there isn't much you can do. The OEM calipers are crap. I frequently retire my KLR's pads in a similar condition and have yet to solve the problem. Rear is just as bad, if not worse. RM

[kdxkawboy@aol.com]

In a message dated 2004-07-06 6:21:22 PM Pacific Daylight Time, rm@... writes:

> > Other than keeping the slider pins well-lubed with something like > Syl-Glide (hi-temp lithium complex won't work in this application), there > isn't much you can do. The OEM calipers are crap. I frequently retire my > KLR's pads in a similar condition and have yet to solve the problem. > > Rear is just as bad, if not worse. > >

Ever since the started powder coating the backing plates I've noticed the problem. One night watching American Chopper I think I finally put two and two together. OCC builds the bike, tears it down, sends it out to be powder coated and then parts don't fit together until they file/grind out the powder coating out of the holes the bolts go through. So with the next set of aftermarket pads I did the same and this set appear to be doing okay. Pat G'ville, Nv [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[bigfatgreenbike]

>Ever since the started powder coating the backing plates I've noticed the >problem. One night watching American Chopper I think I finally put two and two >together. OCC builds the bike, tears it down, sends it out to be powder coated >and then parts don't fit together until they file/grind out the powder coating >out of the holes the bolts go through. So with the next set of aftermarket >pads I did the same and this set appear to be doing okay. > >

Smart people (and unfortunately I don't think the OCC guys belong to Mensa) mask off bolt holes and threads before painting or powdercoating. It's sort of a basic, and it's something that I had to learn the hard way as well. But every single show they have something that comes back bent or ill-fitting. Like the chromer drops all the parts on the floor a couple times and then polishes out the scratches (but doesn't straighten anything). Smart people also might use a lathe to make axle spacers and internal bearing spacers instead of cutting up steel pipe with a bandsaw on a bike they're getting paid $60,000 or more to build. I'll be impressed when they make something using aluminum that doesn't need a 100cu/in motor to seem fast. Devon

[kdxkawboy@aol.com]

In a message dated 2004-07-06 10:18:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time, bigfatgreenbike@... writes:

> > Smart people (and unfortunately I don't think the OCC guys belong to > Mensa) mask off bolt holes and threads before painting or > powdercoating. It's sort of a basic, and it's something that I had to > learn the hard way as well. But every single show they have something > that comes back bent or ill-fitting. Like the chromer drops all the > parts on the floor a couple times and then polishes out the scratches > (but doesn't straighten anything). > > Smart people also might use a lathe to make axle spacers and internal > bearing spacers instead of cutting up steel pipe with a bandsaw on a > bike they're getting paid $60,000 or more to build. > > I'll be impressed when they make something using aluminum that doesn't > need a 100cu/in motor to seem fast. > > Devon > >

Would agree that the OCC guys aren't the brigtest lights on the block and I still ain't convinced the dsyfunctionality isn't all show. But the kid that does all the painting, he is a true artist. Without his paint jobs they would just e another custom builder. You want to watch some real professional bike builds the American Bike Buildoff is the better show. I've noticed that those guys also have problems with the powder coating, the difference is they hog the powder coating out as part of their prep work were Paulie needs to relearn the lesson each time. Because powder coating is nothing more than a glazing process for metal i;m wondering, how do you mask off powder coating so you don't get runs during the backing process? Pat G'ville, Nv [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]