part2

[heeltoetoe@comcast.net]

Attached are three photos of my KLR650 with the Hella 500 driving lights that I installed years ago. Although these photos are a few years old, the installation is still up and running. The light bar is made of 1/4 x 1 inch aluminum bar stock and the two support rods are made of 3/8 inch diameter round stock. It's very sturdy, and the lights hold their alignment, too. I used only hand tools, an electric drill, and clamps to fabricate the pieces, which required about a weekend of bending, drilling, filing, and pounding. You'll notice that there are four switches mounted below the windscreen. The two amber switches control the auxiliary lights when on low beam, and the two red switches control the lights when on high beam. Naturally, everything is fused, and relay activated. The relays are located in the nacel forward of the tach/speedometer. There is plenty of room for two "ice cube" relays, one of which is part of the Hella 500 kit. The relay primary windings are wired in series with the switches to the low/high beam positive voltage wires that run to the main headlight. Consequently, if I want to use both auxiliary lights when on high beam, both red swithces are turned on. If I want to use just one of the auxiliary lights, then only one of the red switches is turned on. In this way if oncoming traffic approaches, placing the main headlight on low beam will deactivate the auxiliary lights automatically. You may be asking your self why did I wire the auxiliary lights for use on either low or high beam. Well, I can't really answer that question today, but when I designed the lighting, it seemed like the right thing to do!!!! Thanks, Nick in Newark, DE [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Lujo Bauer]

The list doesn't allow attachments, so your pictures didn't get through. I'd be interested in seeing them, though. Could you upload them to the files or pictures sections of the Yahoo Group or perhaps just email them directly? Thanks, -Lujo heeltoetoe@... wrote:

> Attached are three photos of my KLR650 with the Hella 500 driving lights that I installed years ago. Although these photos are a few years old, the installation is still up and running. The light bar is made of 1/4 x 1 inch aluminum bar stock and the two support rods are made of 3/8 inch diameter round stock. It's very sturdy, and the lights hold their alignment, too. I used only hand tools, an electric drill, and clamps to fabricate the pieces, which required about a weekend of bending, drilling, filing, and pounding. You'll notice that there are four switches mounted below the windscreen. The two amber switches control the auxiliary lights when on low beam, and the two red switches control the lights when on high beam. Naturally, everything is fused, and relay activated. The relays are located in the nacel forward of the tach/speedometer. There is plenty of room for two "ice cube" relays, one of which is part of the Hella 500 kit. The relay primary windings

a

> re wired in series with the switches to the low/high beam positive voltage wires that run to the main headlight. Consequently, if I want to use both auxiliary lights when on high beam, both red swithces are turned on. If I want to use just one of the auxiliary lights, then only one of the red switches is turned on. In this way if oncoming traffic approaches, placing the main headlight on low beam will deactivate the auxiliary lights automatically. You may be asking your self why did I wire the auxiliary lights for use on either low or high beam. Well, I can't really answer that question today, but when I designed the lighting, it seemed like the right thing to do!!!! > Thanks, Nick in Newark, DE

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[Krgrife@aol.com]

It depends on the year of your bike, a change was made during the '96 model year and engines after #032205 required that you buy the sprocket as part of the crank half. Prior to that engine number the sprocket (Kawi part # 12046-1070, sprocket, cam and balancer) was a separate item as shown on the buykawasaki.com website parts diagrams. Even if you have one of the older models it still requires engine disassembly since the sprocket has to be pressed on to the crank with the crank out of the motor, indexing this sprocket correctly is a little difficult since it is done by eye and if it is off the valve and balancer timing are both affected. I went through all this when Elden Carl and I rebuilt my '91 after my balancer chain failure 5 years ago. Regards, Kurt Grife In a message dated 4/28/04 10:46:02 AM Pacific Daylight Time, zmully@... writes:

> On Tue, 2004-04-27 at 21:27, clint lee jin yew wrote: > > anyway , my kawi dealer here in malaysia DOES sell just the spocket > > > > one from a donor bike would be ok too i guess > > > > Are you sure that it's the right sprocket? The parts diagrams on > buykawasaki.com show the only available part being the entire left half > of the crank.

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