nklr - book review - the bikeriders

[rsanders30117]

My theory is that the rubber of the seal washers against the plastic panels cushions & spreads the load out, protecting the panel. On non- plastic panel parts, I prefer Loctite 290, green. This is medium strength, so it breaks loose with moderate torque (doesn't damage fastener heads) & what's neat is that it is also a wicking sealant. You can seal minor cracks or leaks with it. Handy stuff to have. --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Mark Lewis" wrote:

> --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "rsanders30117" > wrote: > > Regarding fasteners shaking loose, I've found that #12 or " seal > > washers solve a lot of KLR650 fastener problems. A seal washer

is

> a > > stainless washer with a rubber washer bounded to one side. The > rubber > > Or the old Harley standard "blue Loc-tite everything."

[Edmund]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Devon wrote:

> >What part of the rear suspension needs this grease? > > > The bolt that the swingarm pivots on, and the bearings the bolt

rides on.

> > The top shock mount bushing, the bolt, sleeve, and bearings that

the

> bottom shock mount rides in. > > The bolts, sleeves, and bearings that connect the uni-

trak "dogbone" and

> the links themselves. > > While you're at it, grease both axles too. > > You basically disassemble the entire rear suspension assembly, and

put

> waterproof "moly" bearing grease on anything that moves. This is > necessary because Kawasaki saved $0.50 by not using the correct

grease

> when they were putting the thing together. So you can spend hours > correcting this. > > Devon

==== Devon: I hear you! I'm pretty shocked at how little grease is on this bike! (Are all bikes like this from the factory??) Is there any way to reach the upper bolt on the rear shock besides removing the rear wheel, swing arm, links and the lower bolt? Actually, now that I look at mine, I'm not sure even taking out all that makes the upper bolt reachable. Remove the right side black plastic cover? (the one under the right side panel)? ...and I have spent many hours disassembling, lubing bearings and parts that rub against each other and what not. Before I forget, that was a pretty cool picture of your bike in the snow with all the groceries and store stuff tied to it a while back. Edmund A17 in the GI Joe colors

[Chris]

On Tue, Mar 02, 2004 at 03:48:38PM -0000, rdbeer wrote:

> *The bike has been a lot of fun so far, especially when I can take it > off-road (not often). It does have some clear disadvantages in > comparison the 82 Suzuki GS750 i had previously: > - squirrely front end at high speed

Curious how heavy you are? Have you torqued all the triple clamp bolts in several rounds to spec? Still running stock fork springs? My front end was very squirrely once over 50, felt like I was a plane at liftoff. I changed the springs front and rear to match my weight and get the sag right. I also torqued the triple clamp bolts carefully. After making those changes the bike was transformed. Now it's very stable and feels, how can I put it, 'neutral'. I can control the front end easily now by minor weight shifts to either lighten or weight the nose as I want to. Remarkable change. I run 270lbs until the holiday season kicks in and the stock springs aren't even close for that. -- ___ ______ _____ __ ________ ___ / _ |< < / == / ___/__ / /_ /_ __/ / __ ____ _ ___ /__ \ / __ |/ // / ****/ (_ / _ \/ __/ / / / _ \/ // / ' \/ _ \ /__/ /_/ |_/_//_/ == \___/\___/\__/ /_/ /_//_/\_,_/_/_/_/ .__/ (_) 8600 miles*Russel Lines*Supertrapp Race* /_/ http://www.kingsqueak.org/klr650/

[Pierre]

You need to unbolt the 2 bolts at the bottom for the subframe and remove the two top (subframe) bolts then rotate the subframe. Do not forget to disconnect the electric cables that are under the seat. There's also a hose that goes from the radiator overflow tounderneath the rear fender but it will usually stretch. Also, disconnect the rubber that goes from the airbox to the carb. Once the subframe is tilted, accessing the upper bolt for the shock is easy. It's also a good time to remove the carb if you want to do anything on it like cleaning it or shimming the needle. I'm doing this from memory so I hope I'm not forgetting anything. Good luck. POB

----- Original Message ----- From: "Edmund" To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 9:35 PM Subject: [DSN_klr650] Re: Brand Spanking New KLR--Tips? > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Devon wrote: > > > >What part of the rear suspension needs this grease? > > > > > The bolt that the swingarm pivots on, and the bearings the bolt > rides on. > > > > The top shock mount bushing, the bolt, sleeve, and bearings that > the > > bottom shock mount rides in. > > > > The bolts, sleeves, and bearings that connect the uni- > trak "dogbone" and > > the links themselves. > > > > While you're at it, grease both axles too. > > > > You basically disassemble the entire rear suspension assembly, and > put > > waterproof "moly" bearing grease on anything that moves. This is > > necessary because Kawasaki saved $0.50 by not using the correct > grease > > when they were putting the thing together. So you can spend hours > > correcting this. > > > > Devon > > ==== > Devon: I hear you! I'm pretty shocked at how little grease is on > this bike! (Are all bikes like this from the factory??) > > Is there any way to reach the upper bolt on the rear shock besides > removing the rear wheel, swing arm, links and the lower bolt? > Actually, now that I look at mine, I'm not sure even taking out all > that makes the upper bolt reachable. Remove the right side black > plastic cover? (the one under the right side panel)? > > ...and I have spent many hours disassembling, lubing bearings and > parts that rub against each other and what not. > > Before I forget, that was a pretty cool picture of your bike in the > snow with all the groceries and store stuff tied to it a while back. > > Edmund > A17 in the GI Joe colors > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > >

[rdbeer]

> > - squirrely front end at high speed > > Curious how heavy you are? Have you torqued all the triple clamp > bolts in several rounds to spec? Still running stock fork springs?

I'm 225... I'm going to try torquing those bolts, and maybe tightening up the stem nut this weekend.

> > My front end was very squirrely once over 50, felt like I was a

plane

> at liftoff. I changed the springs front and rear to match my weight > and get the sag right. I also torqued the triple clamp bolts > carefully. After making those changes the bike was transformed.

Sounds like mine. The front end feels lights and bounces around from side to side. Sliding back actually does help a little (increases the rake?). Is there a spec for the sag? I should be getting the service manual this weekend, maybe it's in there? I was thinking about getting the Progressive springs, but was worried about that raising the front end up too high.

> it's very stable and feels, how can I put it, 'neutral'. I can > control the front end easily now by minor weight shifts to either > lighten or weight the nose as I want to. Remarkable change.

I'm glad this problem can be fixed! Dirk

[Chris]

>> > - squirrely front end at high speed >> >> Curious how heavy you are? Have you torqued all the triple clamp >> bolts in several rounds to spec? Still running stock fork springs? > I'm 225... I'm going to try torquing those bolts, and maybe tightening > up the stem nut this weekend.

O.k. now pay attention to the torque spec, it's not particularly tight so don't overdo it. You actually want some ability for the fork to shift so if you bang the bike up it won't bend or break the forks, they'll just shift a bit. When you torque the bolts, keep rotating around them as when you tighten one, the other will loosen. Took a good four rotations to get them all evenly snugged down for mine. My stem was very very loose when I got my bike used, snugging that down helped as well. Now there's a nice even, light bit of drag on the bars turning. Before I adjusted it, it would flop under its own weight from side to side. Had quite a lot of slop to it.

>> My front end was very squirrely once over 50, felt like I was a > plane >> at liftoff. I changed the springs front and rear to match my weight >> and get the sag right. I also torqued the triple clamp bolts >> carefully. After making those changes the bike was transformed. > Sounds like mine. The front end feels lights and bounces around from > side to side. Sliding back actually does help a little (increases the > rake?). > Is there a spec for the sag? I should be getting the service manual > this weekend, maybe it's in there? I was thinking about getting the > Progressive springs, but was worried about that raising the front end > up too high.

There's a formula for sag on a dirtbike, Devon helped me with that, he knew it off the top of his head. Google will find it for you, there are numerous articles explaining how you measure it. It's helpful to have an assistant in doing so as you measure the height with and without you sitting on the bike.

> >> it's very stable and feels, how can I put it, 'neutral'. I can >> control the front end easily now by minor weight shifts to either >> lighten or weight the nose as I want to. Remarkable change. > > I'm glad this problem can be fixed! > Dirk >

What I did was replace the stock shock spring with a 500-560 LR Progressive. I'd already bought it or after I did some reading would have just gone with a 500lb or so straight rate spring. At any rate, the spring really helped. The added spring kept my rear from dropping so far and thereby lightening the front end...which in turn makes it feel too light and skittish on the road. I also went to the LR Progressive fork springs and cut one of the stock spacers directly in the middle and used the halves as preload spacers. Major difference in feel as well as being right on the money for my weight for preload height. One more thing to check carefully is your rear axle adjustment and alignment. Measure from the swingarm pivot bolt center to the center of the axle on both sides. It should be equal. If the rear of the bike is out of whack in any number of ways, the feel of it can manifest itself as though there is something off with the front of the bike. It's all a sort of delicate balance and is amazing the difference even small changes can make. Fred at www.arrowheadmotorsports.com has the LR spring and the LR fork springs, www.eshocks.com has straight rate springs.

[rdbeer]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Chris" wrote:

> There's a formula for sag on a dirtbike, Devon helped me with that,

he

> knew it off the top of his head. Google will find it for you, there > are numerous articles explaining how you measure it. It's helpful

to

> have an assistant in doing so as you measure the height with and > without you sitting on the bike.

hey chris, i did some measuring today. the formula i found was that race sag = 1/3 * suspension travel, which for the klr works out to 77mm front and rear. With the rear preload set to the max of "5", I got close: 73mm front and 83mm rear. I guess to get it exactly right, i'd have to get the Progressive rear spring. big improvement in handling, though... it doesn't drag the tail around corners anymore. actually made the high speed wiggely front worse, but hopefully tightening the head & triple trees up will help. --- dirk a18

[Judson D. Jones]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Jim wrote:

> Was at the library with the kids a few days ago when my

daughter

> said - "Look Daddy theres a motorcycle like yours!" and pointed

to a

> book on one of the shelves called "The Bikeriders". > > (it was red and had motorcycles on it and she noticed it before

I did -

> I must be getting old... ) > > Picked it up and brought it home. It was originally published > about a year after I was born so I was never exposed to the

original

> (this is a re-issue). Photos are outstanding and so far the > brief stories from the 'bikeriders' are great. > >

http://www.photoeye.com/templates/mShowDetailsbyCat.cfm?C atalog=CI159 I just picked up a copy of this book, the reissue. I have always admired Danny Lyon's photos: "Route12, Wisconsin" (the cover photo for the book) is my wallpaper on my laptop.