wheel not aligned with handle bars

[thumper65o]

Threw my chain today and now there is a grinding going on in the bottom somewhere. Slid the chain back on, and the grinding started almost immediately. No problem moving, had to ride over 100 miles to get back home. The grinding is at it's worst when slowing down. Somebody please give me some news that is close to not so bad. Thanks Ronnie

[Tengai Mark Van Horn]

At 3:44 AM +0000 2/22/04, thumper65o wrote:

>Threw my chain today and now there is a grinding going on in the >bottom somewhere. Slid the chain back on, and the grinding started >almost immediately. No problem moving, had to ride over 100 miles to >get back home. The grinding is at it's worst when slowing down. >Somebody please give me some news that is close to not so bad.

If it's a pre-'96 bike, it could be a worn front sprocket keeper plate, allowing the sprocket to slide outward. This will cause the chain to contact the frame and the sprocket cover. Mark http://www.reelrider.com

[Keith Saltzer]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "thumper65o" wrote:

> Threw my chain today and now there is a grinding going on in the > bottom somewhere. Slid the chain back on, and the grinding started > almost immediately. No problem moving, had to ride over 100 miles

to

> get back home. The grinding is at it's worst when slowing down. > Somebody please give me some news that is close to not so bad. > > Thanks Ronnie

Which chain did you throw?? Drive chain I'll assume. If so, did it hit something on the countershaft sprocket cover, bending it, and causing it to rub on the chain?? MrMoose A8 (Barbie and Ken special)

[Keith Saltzer]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Tengai Mark Van Horn wrote:

> At 3:44 AM +0000 2/22/04, thumper65o wrote: > >Threw my chain today and now there is a grinding going on in the > >bottom somewhere. Slid the chain back on, and the grinding started > >almost immediately. No problem moving, had to ride over 100 miles

to

> >get back home. The grinding is at it's worst when slowing down. > >Somebody please give me some news that is close to not so bad. > > If it's a pre-'96 bike, it could be a worn front sprocket keeper > plate, allowing the sprocket to slide outward. This will cause the > chain to contact the frame and the sprocket cover.

Yea, that too. PULL THAT COVER! MrMoose A8 (Barbie and Ken special)

[James L. Miller Jr.]

Or, worst case scenario: Chain contacts between sprocket and case, putting slight "tweak" in countershaft sprocket shaft (what the nut attaches to and the sprocket slides on) wearing the bushing and bearing on the other sidemaking the insides something like a coffee can full of nuts and bolts, noise wise. Of course, it could be something like what the rest of the guys said. Good luck. If it is the countershaft shaft stuff, it's about $750+ to fix, if it's not, you're in luck. millerized --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "thumper65o" wrote:

> Threw my chain today and now there is a grinding going on in the > bottom somewhere. Slid the chain back on, and the grinding

started

> almost immediately. No problem moving, had to ride over 100 miles

to

> get back home. The grinding is at it's worst when slowing down. > Somebody please give me some news that is close to not so bad. > > Thanks Ronnie

[Jim]

Pull the front sprocket cover and have a look. I pulled mine off last week for cleaning and found a thumb nail sized rock in behind the sprocket between the rotating chain and the case. --Jim A-15

> Threw my chain today and now there is a grinding going on in the > bottom somewhere. Slid the chain back on, and the grinding started > almost immediately. No problem moving, had to ride over 100 miles to > get back home. The grinding is at it's worst when slowing down. > Somebody please give me some news that is close to not so bad. > > Thanks Ronnie

[Mike Torst]

> -----Original Message----- > From: James L. Miller Jr. [mailto:millerized_2000@...] > Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2004 8:22 AM > To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [DSN_klr650] Re: HELPHELPHELP > > Or, worst case scenario: Chain contacts between sprocket and case, > putting slight "tweak" in countershaft sprocket shaft (what the nut > attaches to and the sprocket slides on) wearing the bushing and > bearing on the other sidemaking the insides something like a coffee > can full of nuts and bolts, noise wise. Of course, it could be > something like what the rest of the guys said. > Good luck. If it is the countershaft shaft stuff, it's about $750+ > to fix, if it's not, you're in luck. > millerized > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "thumper65o" > wrote: > > Threw my chain today and now there is a grinding going on in the > > bottom somewhere. Slid the chain back on, and the grinding > started > > almost immediately. No problem moving, had to ride over 100 miles > to > > get back home. The grinding is at it's worst when slowing down. > > Somebody please give me some news that is close to not so bad. > > > > Thanks Ronnie

reply------------------- If the worst case scenario did occur, do consider used shaft parts and new bearing(s)to control costs. I hope that the worst case is not 'your' case. Look for the scaring that the chain links caused, if any, around the front sprocket. If it pinched up in front of the sprocket you will most likely have cut into the stator wires. As your bike is running, it would appear that this did not occur. Good luck! Mike Torst Las Vegas

[dooden]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "crawdad185" wrote:

> When I sit on my '97 650 and center the handlebars/triple tree, my > front wheel is point off to the left. If I center the wheel, the > handle bars are point to the right a little. It's not off much, and > I don't notice it on the road, but that sort of thing bothers me. > Makes me think I'm going down the road crooked What do I do to > center the wheel and have the bars and triple tree aligned > correctly? Thanks for your help. Ron

Quick fix... find a tree and bang the side of the wheel against it... Better fix, loosen the triple clamp bolts and adjust then retorque the bolts to spec. (do not exceed spec, ensure spacing in the clamps is fairly even when re-torquing) Anybody know if there is a pattern to follow when torquing the triple clamp ? To ensure even pressure is applied on the tubes/clamp. I myself would snug right middle area, left middle area and when moving from side to side snug away from center slowly, kinda like putting a head on a engine to spread the load slowly and evenly. Not sure if that over the edge and anal on triple clamps, but the few extra seconds to do it sure would make me feel more gooder.. Dooden A15 Green Ape