valve timing

[millerized_2000]

Have to agree with you about it being faster and feels better to ride. I can thank Fred (thanks Fred!) for the extra speed, with the jet kit, the sprocket and the air filter. The RPM's are lower, the thing feels faster, vibrates less. I'll have the GPS attached sometime soon, and maybe I'll even try a "KLR Land Speed Record". But for right now, I'll stick to breaking in my new Kenda 270, riding 40 mph on the 3.5 mile commute to work through the WV countryside and my "beautiful new paint job". Still seeking a cheap used RAM mount for the emap, anyone? Oh, I see...You're going to make me spend the full $32.95? Oh, some friends you are! millerized well speedo may be off,i run 16 tooth front,stock rear

> sprockets,and the rpm's were between 7500 and 7800.whats others mph > with stock front sprocket,when i had stock front 15 tooth my klr > wouldnt get over 108mph "speedo"whent to 16 front and not only does > it feel better,but is faster.Dave A-13

[Devon Jarvis]

In addition to the speedo not being accurate, the tach is not perfect either. When I had my A15 dynoed, the tach was 600 rpm high just over the redline. The dyno operator accidentally overrevved the motor because he was waiting for the rev limiter to kick in (KLR doesn't have one). Devon A15 redufo1 wrote:

> > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "millerized_2000" > wrote: > > I gotta ask. Indicated speed on the speedometer?, cops radar? 1/4 > > mile track paper slip or GPS? I've always found that the import > > speedo's read between 5 and 10% off at higher speeds. I'll give > the > > GPS reading 2 thumbs up before I'd give the radar a single finger.

snip

> > > well speedo may be off,i run 16 tooth front,stock rear > sprockets,and the rpm's were between 7500 and 7800.

[rsanders30117]

I have installed a bicycle computer on my A14 & have calibrated it, then checked it against highway mile marker. Based on it, my speedometer is 10% optimistic. An indicated 60 m/h is really 54 m/h. What's interesting is that the mile odometers essentially match. From what I've read , this is common for motorcycles. You guys are going way faster than I'm interested going but not actually as fast as you think.

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Devon Jarvis wrote: > In addition to the speedo not being accurate, the tach is not perfect > either. When I had my A15 dynoed, the tach was 600 rpm high just over > the redline. The dyno operator accidentally overrevved the motor because > he was waiting for the rev limiter to kick in (KLR doesn't have one). > > Devon > A15 > > redufo1 wrote: > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "millerized_2000" > > wrote: > > > I gotta ask. Indicated speed on the speedometer?, cops radar? 1/4 > > > mile track paper slip or GPS? I've always found that the import > > > speedo's read between 5 and 10% off at higher speeds. I'll give > > the > > > GPS reading 2 thumbs up before I'd give the radar a single finger. > snip > > > > well speedo may be off,i run 16 tooth front,stock rear > > sprockets,and the rpm's were between 7500 and 7800.

[kdxkawboy@aol.com]

In a message dated 2004-01-28 5:01:45 PM Pacific Standard Time, rsand_@... writes:

> > > I have installed a bicycle computer on my A14 &have calibrated it, > then checked it against highway mile marker. Based on it, my > speedometer is 10% optimistic. An indicated 60 m/h is really 54 > m/h. What's interesting is that the mile odometers essentially match. > > From what I've read , this is common for motorcycles. You guys are > going way faster than I'm interested going but not actually as fast > as you think. > > >

Its been ages since a motorcycle or car came out of the factory with an accurate speedometer. Its also been ages since I've just been naturally adjusting for the error. If memory serves me, the formula is rpm equals (speed * overall gear ratio * 336) / tire diameter. In 5th gear the overall ratio is 5.51, say a typical 17" tire has an overall diameter of 24" you would need to be turning about 5800 rpm to do 75 mph. With my 18" rim 5400 rpm puts me at 75 with the diameter of my IRC GP1. Pat G'ville, Nv [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[kdxkawboy@aol.com]

In a message dated 2004-01-29 9:25:06 PM Pacific Standard Time, don.smith@... writes:

> > I've read the manuals regarding valve timing, as I'm installing a new > cam chain. > As is, at TDC, the marks on the cam sprockets are not horizontal. > When I go to time the valves with the new chain, should I re-position > the sprockets to bring the marks horizontal? > > I'm not certain that I can do what the manual describes because the > arrow points to a tooth, not a valley as in the book, to start > counting the pins. Further, the diagram counts pins counterclockwise, > ie starting at the slack side of the chain. I would have expected to > count clockwise, ie on the tension side. > > Any advice on valve timing? > > Thx, Don > Vancouver, BC > > >

Don, All you can do with the OEM setup is get everything lined up as close as manufacturing tolerances will let you. Its only when you have the availability of adjustable cam shaft sprockets is it worth your time to get a degree wheel bolted up t the crank to be able to get the valve timing dead nuts balls on (a scientific term for fans of Vinny's Cousin). Once you get the marks on the crankshaft lined up, your only choice will be to use a cam shaft sprocket tooth that will either make the valve timing a bit early or a bit late, given the tolerance in all those marks being perfectly aligned in the first place. If you ask why I think about things in terms of manufacturing tolerances, or being close enough for government work, I once had to make sure that the mounting points in two molded case halves lined up with the through holes on three PWA boards such that worse case, 100% of the time every thing lines up close enough that you can find a standard screw/screw head/washer combination that doesn't pull through the through holes as you torque down the allen bolts that hold the case halves together and you are fighting this battle because the design engineer specified through holes with square shoulders and a purchaser that okayed the vendor to use tapered shoulders to cheapen his process, excuse me, improve his profit margin, and this all crated on an original design that had a marginal catch on the shoulder such that the only way I could mechanically solve the problem without changing the molds was to call out a custom machined screw and then had to explain to the man that signed everyone's paycheck why his service technicians would shortly be knocking on our customer's doors asking permission to retrofit the repair kit if he didn't want to get another letter from a customer demanding his money back. So I understand only too well that you can only hit the nail on the head if I, the manufacturer of both hammer and nail give you a target you can't miss. Pat G'ville, Nv [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[John Biccum]

My experience matches rsand's Speedo about 5 mph fast per the GPS but the odometer is right on. That tells me there is nothing wrong with the ratios Kawi engineers calculated but they have the zero on the speedo in the wrong place. Also it is unusual that the error seems a constant 5mph not a percentage of the true speed error that I would have expected. Definitly not the traditional ratio problem. Every other vehicle I have owned has the speedo in close synch with the odometer. If the speedo was 5% fast the odometer was 5% fast too. (My truck with it slightly oversize tires is about 5% slow, both on the speedo and the odo) I bet Kawi introduced this speedo optimism to decrease 0-"60" times since you are really only going 0-55 mph

----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 20:22 Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Re: NKLR: 105+ ?? > In a message dated 2004-01-28 5:01:45 PM Pacific Standard Time, > rsand_@... writes: > > > > > > > I have installed a bicycle computer on my A14 &have calibrated it, > > then checked it against highway mile marker. Based on it, my > > speedometer is 10% optimistic. An indicated 60 m/h is really 54 > > m/h. What's interesting is that the mile odometers essentially match. > > > > From what I've read , this is common for motorcycles. You guys are > > going way faster than I'm interested going but not actually as fast > > as you think. > > > > > > > > Its been ages since a motorcycle or car came out of the factory with an > accurate speedometer. Its also been ages since I've just been naturally adjusting > for the error. If memory serves me, the formula is rpm equals (speed * overall > gear ratio * 336) / tire diameter. In 5th gear the overall ratio is 5.51, say > a typical 17" tire has an overall diameter of 24" you would need to be turning > about 5800 rpm to do 75 mph. With my 18" rim 5400 rpm puts me at 75 with the > diameter of my IRC GP1. > > Pat > G'ville, Nv > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > To visit your group on the web, go to: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_klr650/ > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >