great day . . .

[propagandrew]

Went out and got some tire irons yesterday and began the process of sticking my new trailwings on. After a few minutes of pondering I realized I could easily get the rear tire off the ground solidly (on a gravel driveway no less) with a little scissor jack from a roommates car. Stuck a big flat rock under the side stand so it was a bit higher and then just stuck the jack until the frame tube right in front of the right foot peg. Up the time came with no issue. After getting the axle out and wheel out I brought it inside. Got the old tire off without much trouble. Got the first side of the new tire on with little trouble. Got the valve stem through the hole with a bit of trouble, but no big deal. Then, got 3/4 of the 2nd side of the new tire over the rim, but at that point it was so tight on there the loose portion was pulled completely tight (in a straight line). Fought a bit, couldn't figure a way it was going to work. So I brought it over to the shop to have them do it. Would it be more difficult to do because the trailwing is 120/90 instead of 130/80? Luckily good ol' Bob's cycle supply will put it on for a mere $15. 2nd: In my fight with the tire the sprocket was getting in the way so I just lifted it off (on both sides the bearing covering pieces kept falling off). Then since I was on carpet, I think the exposed bearing got some of it's grease taken out. Since I already have the wheel off and bearing exposed, should I grease that baby up real good again? If so, what kind of grease to use? Andrew

[Devon Jarvis]

propagandrew wrote:

> > 2nd: In my fight with the tire the sprocket was getting in the way > so I just lifted it off (on both sides the bearing covering pieces > kept falling off).

I can't help too much with the tire bit via email, except to say make sure the bead on the rest of the tire is down in the center of the rim when you try and get it on. BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL that you don't miss the spacer in between the sprocket carrier and the hub. The bike will reassemble without it, and will appear to work properly for a short time. Then the sprocket carrier, hub, bearings, and possibly the sprocket and swingarm will start eating each other apart. Devon A15-Z -- "It's a troublesome world, all the people who are in it, are troubled with troubles almost every minute" Dr. Seuss

[Grant Johnson - Horizons Unlimited]

Devon has probably pegged it - the bead isn't ALL the way into the valley of the rim. Absolutely critical. Tire size should have little to no effect unless it's too wide for the rim, and even then it should go on ok. Use three tire irons, one to hold in place while you work on the others, and use some liquid dish soap and water to make it nice and slippery. It IS possible to do it SOME of the time with NO irons, so if it's too hard with irons, you're definitely doing something wrong. Usually bead isn't in the valley, or tube bunched or over-inflated. Tip: take the valve core out, inflate tube, then put it in. It will hold it's shape better and not be so prone to pinching, and with no core not make the job harder by resisting. For great links on tire changing techniques with pics, go to http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/links/ and search on any of the following: tire-changing-doc tirefaq.htm shop.html#wheel tireqwik/ balancer.html tiretools.html see you on the road someday, somewhere... Grant Johnson Horizons Unlimited - Live the Dream! at the Motorcycle Travellers' website: www.HorizonsUnlimited.com -----Original Message----- From: Devon Jarvis [mailto:jarvisd@...] Sent: 19-August-2003 10:20 AM To: propagandrew; KLR650 group Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] tire mounting fight and wheel bearings propagandrew wrote:

> > 2nd: In my fight with the tire the sprocket was getting in the way > so I just lifted it off (on both sides the bearing covering pieces > kept falling off).

I can't help too much with the tire bit via email, except to say make sure the bead on the rest of the tire is down in the center of the rim when you try and get it on. BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL that you don't miss the spacer in between the sprocket carrier and the hub. The bike will reassemble without it, and will appear to work properly for a short time. Then the sprocket carrier, hub, bearings, and possibly the sprocket and swingarm will start eating each other apart. Devon A15-Z -- "It's a troublesome world, all the people who are in it, are troubled with troubles almost every minute" Dr. Seuss List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[Devon Jarvis]

Andrew H wrote:

> > With my tire and wheel at the shop getting put on, i can't check for this > spacer. What exactly does it look like?

http://216.173.6.149/RearHub.gif it's #42036 (or is that 42035, can't see)

> What I've noticed is that on the > rotor side there is just one little piece that comes off showing the > bearing. On the sprocket side the whole sprocket assembly comes off and > atop of it is another cover that looks similar but a bit different size than > the rotor side. Is the spacer you are talking about the one that goes > between the swingarm and the sprocket carrier? On the outside (swingarm > side) of the sprocket carrier? Hopefully it's not something between the > sprocket carrier and the wheel because I haven't seen anything in there. >

You can't see if it's installed from the outside. The first two times I changed tires I was totally unaware of it, since it often sticks to the bearing in the sprocket carrier. And every other bike I had, including two that had cush drives, didn't use a spacer in this position. The problem is, if you take off the sprocket carrier, sometimes the spacer falls off and you don't notice it. The rubber cushions hold the carrier more or less in position if it's reassembled without it, but when you tighten the axle the swingarm gets pinched in, and the rubber eventually gets ground through. If you routinely have your bike serviced by others, I suggest you take off the wheel and verify that the spacers are all present. Then reassemble it and very carefully measure from the centers of the chain adjustor bolts, down to a millimeter. Remeasure this anytime someone has had the rear wheel off, if the distance is suddenly a few mm shorter, something is wrong. Also, look at how many threads are visible on the axle once the nut is installed. If there are suddenly a few more threads showing, something's wrong. Or just work on it yourself. That way if it gets screwed up you know exactly who's fault it is. Devon A15-Z -- "It's a troublesome world, all the people who are in it, are troubled with troubles almost every minute" Dr. Seuss

[don_detloff]

How's your campaign going? Don Detloff Fair Haven, MI USA

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, George Basinet wrote: > > When you are retired every day is a good day. Two or three times a > month the day comes with a little lagniappe. Today it's the Dual Sport > News. Think I'll give up my nap, read the road test on the MZ Baghire > and the test report about a cycle carrier. > > George > Escondido, Ca