carb tuning experiment results

[Zpokez72@aol.com]

Hey guys, just use a little nail polish remover. Gently pry open with a screw driver and drop a little in and voila or wally as I like to say. It doesn't take much. Afterwards clean off handle bar with alcahol before installing new grips. If you clean too much of the old glue off you'll have to reglue. If that's the case use very little glue. K? Kool! Cactus Jack [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Dan Pauley]

Geezzzz guys, Don't any of you have kids. WD-40 the great glue, crayon, and gunk solvent. On the inboard side of the grip, pull it away enough to get the straw between the grip and bar. Littlw squirt. Work it in a rotary motion and you can feel the WD working. Once you get it worked a little farther now you can get the straw in further for the next squirt. I find this just as fast and easy as a knife plus the grips are reuseable. Dan /|\

[Zpokez72@aol.com]

Or you could just use WD40. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[planetequipment]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "roclore1" wrote:

> I have been toying with my carb's tuning and thought I would share > the results.

snip/snip Yo D! It's good that you got good results from you jetting experiments. Since most carb settings and jetting affect other operating ranges, you were fortunate to arrive a a workable group of settings so quickly. However, there is an easier, more logical way than just using using random "experiments". Jetting 101: Throttle slide openings affect the fuel/air mixture at the current throttle opening and at wider openings. For example, since the main jet is basically not a factor until about 3/4 throttle opening, it doesn't not affect idle operation. Since carb circuits essentially have a bottom up relationship (lower circuits affect upper circuits, but not the other way around), it makes logical sense to start jetting from the idle circuit. Adjust the idle screw for best idle. Note that it is almost never necessary to have to replace the pilot jet. Obviously there is an interaction between the idle mixture and idle speed adjustment. Backfiring on deceleration can be a result of a too lean idle mixture, but don't worry about this too much until after setting the midrange (needle) and top (main jet). Most bikes are too lean in the midrange. Many riders compensate for this by over enrichening the idle circuit. The overlap enrichens the midrange somewhat and improves rideability. Once the bike idles properly, the next step is the needle setting (midrange). This is the most important part in terms of rideability. Adjust the needle up or down (one step at a time) test riding the bike after each change. Ride the bike only in small or medium throttle openings. Your goal is crisp acceleration. There should be no surging at steady cruise speeds. Next comes the main jet. Run the bike at WOT from about 4000 rpm in high gear. As before, you want crisp running with no pinging. Too large a main jet will result in a "lazy" engine. Too lean can burn a hole in a piston. Be careful here. After doing this, you may have to fine tune a bit. In order to jet correctly, the jetter has to be able to translate changes to the carb to the feel, sound, response, etc. of the bike. this does take some experience. It's not an exact science. I would suggest replacing the stock needle (it has a shape only the EPA could love) with one with a proper taper (and adjusting grooves). Also, using the HD adjustable idle screw makes life much easier. Plus, it also has a better taper. Ron