wanted still

[prbklr]

What is involved in replacing the fork boots on my A13? I don't recall seeing this mentioned in the FAQ's or archieve, if it was please point me there. Otherwise, any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Paul Frisco, TX A13

[Devon Jarvis]

It's easy if you have some sort of work stand: Lift bike so front wheel is off the ground. Disconnect speedo cable. Unbolt front brake caliper bracket from fork tube, zip-tie, tape, or wire caliper to the shroud or other out-of-the-way place. Unbolt axle and remove the front wheel. If you have a fork brace, remove it. Loosen hoseclamps securing the fork boots, top and bottom. Loosen the steering clamp pinch bolts and slide forks out. Remove old boots, install new boots. Reassembly is the reverse of installation (except for fork brace, save that for last). The manual (and the FAQ on Chris Krok's site http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html ) has the torque values you need for bolting everything back together. If you are reinstalling a fork brace, put everything else back together first, then fit the fork brace with the bolts hand tight. Take the bike off the lift or milk crate or floor jack or whatever you used, and bounce the front end a few times. Wiggle the fork brace and see if it moved. The brace should fit exactly with the bolts just hand tight. If the bolts pull the fork brace into position when you tighten them, then the brace doesn't fit right. Good luck. Devon A15 prbklr wrote:

> > What is involved in replacing the fork boots on my A13? I don't > recall seeing this mentioned in the FAQ's or archieve, if it was > please point me there. Otherwise, any help or suggestions would be > appreciated. > > Paul > Frisco, TX > A13 >

[Ken Parker]

I just hoisted the front end off the ground using a tiedown strap then removed the front wheel and dropped the fork legs out one at a time. The brake caliper has to be removed to get that one out. Then replace the boots and put it all back together. Took me about 30 minutes. OlKen in spudland (Idaho) --- prbklr wrote:

> What is involved in replacing the fork boots on my > A13? I don't > recall seeing this mentioned in the FAQ's or > archieve, if it was > please point me there. Otherwise, any help or > suggestions would be > appreciated. > > > Paul > Frisco, TX > A13 > > > > > Checkout Dual Sport News at > http://www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of > Chris Krok at: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

===== Ol'Ken in I DA HO __________________________________________________ Yahoo! - We Remember 9-11: A tribute to the more than 3,000 lives lost http://dir.remember.yahoo.com/tribute

[Cloyce D. Spradling]

On Wed, Sep 11, 2002 at 03:53:27PM -0000, prbklr wrote: : What is involved in replacing the fork boots on my A13? I don't : recall seeing this mentioned in the FAQ's or archieve, if it was : please point me there. Hi Paul. I did mine a few weeks ago; I also didn't find anything in the FAQs. It's pretty simple; remove the front wheel, remove the forks, off with the old boots, on with the new. As the Haynes writers are fond of saying "Installation is the reverse of removal." Don't forget to undo the speedo gear at the wheel before you start. Also, you'll have to remove the front brake caliper. It's not necessary to remove the line; just tie it up out of the way. Be sure to have a new cotter pin for the castle nut on the front axle. While the wheel is off, be sure to not bend the brake disc. I also found that it was a good time to re-grease the speedo gear. I would've done the wheel bearings, but my A13 only has 22k on it and they were still smoooooth. When you loosen the pinch bolts on the upper and lower clamps, be sure that the fork doesn't fall out. Mine didn't, because the angle and weight of the fork helped keep it wedged in, but if yours are clean that might not be enough. When I put them back on, the only things that I was really careful about were making sure that the tops of the tubes were flush with the top of the top triple clamp and (more importantly) making sure that they were even. Triple clamp pinch bolt torque should be 25 Nm (18 ft-lb). That value is from the last supplement; IIRC the base manual listed a lower torque. The torque value for the front axle nut is 78 Nm (58 ft-lb). Oh, yeah... I have a centerstand, which made the whole thing pretty easy. But a lift or milk crate or whatever should work too. You could probably do it without removing the front wheel, but it seems to me like that'd be a bigger pain. Good luck. -- Cloyce A13 in Austin

[dooden]

>

> Oh, yeah... I have a centerstand, which made the whole thing pretty

easy.

> But a lift or milk crate or whatever should work too. >

A lift yes, a milk crate NO !! I tried, was being lazy and did'nt feel like dragging my lift out, and a Milk Crate failed... moved the suspension, but not enuff to lift a wheel off the ground. Dooden A15 (That dont like Milk Crates)

[Mark St.Hilaire, Sr]

> I am trying to build a tank of a klr.I'd be intrested in anything that > protect vulnerable areas BEFORE they break.(note to self-doh).

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