swingarm lube project - help
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superbrace - axle pinch bolts
KLR Listers:
I just received the Superbrace. Where are the "axle pinch bolts" on KLR, and to what should they be re-torqued?
Also, in a small plastic bag stapled to the instructions were 4 washers and 2 nail-like objects, but the instructions were mute as to them. Can anyone on the list with experience in the Superbrace installation comment on them?
/s/ David Kaltenbaugh
A16
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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superbrace - axle pinch bolts
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "David Kaltenbaugh"
wrote:
bolts" on KLR, and to what should they be re-torqued? KLR has no axle pinch bolts. That's one of its weak points, and is why the front end is so flexible. A fork brace will help overcome this weakness but will not address it entirely. Axles with pinch bolts are way stronger than the rinky-dink threaded axle like the KLR uses. Pinch bolts tighten the axle and fork legs together in a much stronger fashion. Your instructions sound generic, meant to apply to most motorcycles, and not specifically the KLR. The axle nut gets tightened to 58 ft/lbs, and needs all of it applied.> KLR Listers: > > I just received the Superbrace. Where are the "axle pinch
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superbrace - axle pinch bolts
The "2 nail-like objects" are Pop Rivets. This is all that SuperBrace has
come up with to attach the fork boots to the brace. For this reason, I have
discontinued selling the SuperBrace and am now selling and supporting Tim's
K-9 fork brace. The K-9 sells for the same as the black SuperBrace and is a
much better fork brace.
Fred
http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com
http://www.canyonlandsmotorclassic.com
----- Original Message ----- From: "David Kaltenbaugh" To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 9:21 PM Subject: [DSN_klr650] Superbrace - axle pinch bolts > KLR Listers: > > I just received the Superbrace. Where are the "axle pinch bolts" on KLR, and to what should they be re-torqued? > > Also, in a small plastic bag stapled to the instructions were 4 washers and 2 nail-like objects, but the instructions were mute as to them. Can anyone on the list with experience in the Superbrace installation comment on them? > > /s/ David Kaltenbaugh > A16 >
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- Joined: Wed Dec 12, 2001 1:00 pm
superbrace - axle pinch bolts
applied. I don't have a torque wrench so must rely on Gutentite method, which leads to the question, is it possible to apply enough gorilla torque to damage bearings? If the cotter pin alignment twixt axle nut and axle is difficult, I tend to favor lite torque. Now I'm wondering if tighter is better to keep front end stiffened up. Also, mounted K270s today, saw no rotation direction arrow, did i miss something, or do these things go both ways? Tom post reads like porn A15> The axle nut gets tightened to 58 ft/lbs, and needs all of it
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superbrace - axle pinch bolts
Don't know about too tight, but not tight enough you'll feel in worse handling.> axle is difficult, I tend to favor lite torque. Now I'm wondering if > tighter is better to keep front end stiffened up.
Yup, they're bidirectional. -Lujo [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]> Also, mounted K270s today, saw no rotation direction arrow, did i > miss something, or do these things go both ways?
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- Joined: Tue May 09, 2000 7:20 pm
superbrace - axle pinch bolts
On Tue, 9 Jul 2002, tedfshred wrote:
RM
I've cranked mine down pretty damn tight with no ill effect. Didn't help the handling any....>I don't have a torque wrench so must rely on Gutentite method, which >leads to the question, is it possible to apply enough gorilla torque to >damage bearings? If the cotter pin alignment twixt axle nut and axle is >difficult, I tend to favor lite torque. Now I'm wondering if tighter is >better to keep front end stiffened up.
The K270's are bi.>Also, mounted K270s today, saw no rotation direction arrow, did i miss >something, or do these things go both ways?

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swingarm lube project - help
I would say that doing a valve clearance check is much less work than
lubing the swingarm and unitrak bearings. Unless you strip or break one
of the small, delicate bolts holding on the valve cover.
I have always been able to remove the rear wheel without removing the
brake caliper. You need to get your bike up a little higher.
Devon
caliphery wrote:
> > Hi, > > Just spent about 6 hours running through the procedure for lubing the > swingarm and unitrack bearings, including clean-up, and it went > reasonably well. All bolts slid out pretty smoothly for me. It was a > lot of work and not at all what I'd call easy. Can anyone tell me how > this compares (in terms of time, effort, technical competence) with a > valve clearance check? (That's what I'm planning on doing next.) > > The instructions below are good; I thought I'd add a bit more detail. > > * For novices, to remove the rear wheel, you have to remove the rear > brake from its swingarm mounting by removing the two allen bolts > holding it in place. >
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