race tech cartridge emulaters

[stutzman44610]

I use a heated liner and gloves. and i want to be able to turn off my headlight when using liner. I got a, on off switch thinking it would be easy, but i think not. has anyone done this and could you give some details please, on wireing this up and switch location. thanks

[Devon Jarvis]

It actually is pretty easy, I have just replaced my headlamp with an 80/100 and run the wiring straight from the battery, so I have the details of the wiring fairly fresh in my head. You need: single-throw relay (Napa or other auto store) dielectric tune-up grease (Napa or other auto store) blade connectors for 20ga wire (Radio Shack, 16-18ga OK too, might have to double the wire ends) crimpers, or pliers that will work electrical tape wire (to go between the switch and the relay) your switch (locate anywhere convenient) The relay will have 4 blades on it. The schematic on the box, or the side of the relay itself will show two wires with a coil in between, and two wires with a switch. The two wires with the coil go to your on/off switch (you can use a really tiny switch if you use a relay!), and you use other two go into the low-beam wire. Use either the manual, or the electrical diagram posted to the DSN site to identify the proper wire. You cut the low-beam wire (close enough to the headlamp that you can zip-tie the relay to the fairing bracket somewhere), strip both ends, and grease the bare wire ends with the tune-up grease. Then, securely crimp-on the female blade connectors. Grease the blades on the relay, and fit the wire ends from the low-beam to the relay (the switch pair, not the coil). Fit blade connectors to the wires off the switch, attach them to the other side of the relay, and make sure it all works. Then, wrap a couple layers of electrical tape around the relay (only do this after you are done with the schematic on the side) and zip-tie it where it won't get hit with the forks. This setup will shut off the LOW beam only, so if you need to flash someone just hit the high beams, they'll still come on as usual. The dielectric grease should be smeared on any electrical connection whenever accessible, as a general preventive maintainance item- not just this headlight stuff. Especially connectors for the CDI, reg/rectifier, coil, fan, ends of fuses etc. I have troubleshooted enough electrical problems on both my own, and friend's bikes, to wish this was done at the factory. Devon A15 stutzman44610 wrote:

> I use a heated liner and gloves. and i want to be able to turn off my > headlight when using liner. I got a, on off switch thinking it would > be easy, but i think not. has anyone done this and could you give > some details please, on wireing this up and switch location. > thanks > > Checkout Dual Sport News at > http://www.dualsportnews.com > Be part of the Adventure! > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > > Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com > Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[RM]

On Wed, 26 Dec 2001, Devon Jarvis wrote:

>It actually is pretty easy, I have just replaced my headlamp with an >80/100 and run the wiring straight from the battery, so I have the >details of the wiring fairly fresh in my head. >You need:

[snip] A headlight relay will mitigate voltage the voltage drop induced by the wimpy stock wiring and is a good idea. I, however, installed a simple SPST switch in-line with my headlight's ground wire. Cheap, works, and easy for a lazy bum like me. RM

[J. Gregory]

I don't know about the law where you live however in Arkansas it is against the law to drive a motorcycle on the street with the headlight off. it is usually a verbal warning or a fix it ticket. when I was stopped the officer just asked me to get it fixed. I generally try not to give the law any reason to pull me over they might find something else to gripe about not to mention the time lost and everyone driving by thinking yeah another biker causing trouble.(b.t.w. I replaced fuse on the spot while he was there talking about my klr. first one he had seen up close) Jim Arkansas

----- Original Message ----- From: "stutzman44610" To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, December 24, 2001 9:50 AM Subject: [DSN_klr650] klr headlight switch on off help???? > I use a heated liner and gloves. and i want to be able to turn off my > headlight when using liner. I got a, on off switch thinking it would > be easy, but i think not. has anyone done this and could you give > some details please, on wireing this up and switch location. > thanks > > > Checkout Dual Sport News at > http://www.dualsportnews.com > Be part of the Adventure! > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > > Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com > Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > >

[Mike Render]

I don't mean to be knitpicky but the term is "damping". Dampening means to get something wet. Mike Render A14

>From: gaustin@... >To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com >Subject: RE: [DSN_klr650] Race Tech Cartridge Emulaters >Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 08:43:17 -0700 > > Suspension is always a compromise (comfy vs handling). I did the >Race Tech mods (springs & emulators) in my touring bike; noticeable (for >the >better) difference in fork plushness. To over-simplify: the springs hold >up >the weight; the dampening (orifice or cartridge or emulators) helps the >wheel to follow the contours of the ground (at least its supposed too) >without doing the pogo stick thing. > > The more serious (fast, jumps, rocks, whoops, overloaded, etc.) you >ride the stiffer (generally) your springs need to be. Dampening also needs >to change for each of the afore mentioned riding scenarios. Thus, unless >you want to change springs and dampening each time you choose a different >facet of motorcycling..., suspension is a compromise. I enjoy bonding >(wrenching, fine tuning, tinkering) with my machines. However, given a >choice of either ride or wrench, riding wins. > > Race Tech's web site will allow you to enter data and then recommend >a spring rate, oil height, oil weight, emulator part number and recommend >an >emulator setting. You may have to remove the springs a time or two to >change the dampening rate (the fine art of fine tuning). You can then (if >you keep records) change dampening and spring preload for certain riding >scenarios, as mentioned in the previous paragraph. Sounds worse than it >is; >really. > > One more thing: Installation of the Race Tech emulators does require >drilling a hole or two in your dampening rods. This means there is no >going >back to the old system. If this makes you nervous, ride a bike with the >Race Tech mods first. > >good luck > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Ed Lahartinger [SMTP:edafl@...] > > Sent: Friday, December 21, 2001 1:43 PM > > To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > > Subject: [DSN_klr650] Race Tech Cartridge Emulaters > > > > Has anyone tried Race Techs cartridge emulators in the KLR forks?It > > looks like they drill out the fixed orifus on the rods that the fork > > normally uses for damping and replace it with a fixed shim stack valve > > under the spings.Can anyone explain to me what kind of suspension > > improvment this type of valve gives over the fixed orifus type and >why?The > > description below is what Race Tech claims and they compare the >perfomance > > to a cartridge fork; which might help if I knew what a cartridge fork >was. > > > > Damping rod forks are notorious for being both too harsh and too easy to > > bottom. This is the nature of damping rod fixed orifice forks. Until >now, > > all you could do is change spring rate, oil viscosity and damping hole > > size. The best available was a serious compromise. The Gold Valve > > Cartridge Emulator is another one of the outstanding inventions from >Race > > Tech's Paul Thede. Simply put; Emulators make damping rod forks perform > > like well-tuned cartridge forks. Emulators are tunable valves that sit >on > > top of the damping rods and are held in place with the main springs. >This > > makes them both simple to install and completely tunable for all > > conditions and rider preferences. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Ed lahartinger > > > > 2000KLR650 > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > Checkout Dual Sport News at > > http://www.dualsportnews.com > > Be part of the Adventure! > > > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > > > > Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > > Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com > > Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > > List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to >http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > >Checkout Dual Sport News at >http://www.dualsportnews.com >Be part of the Adventure! > >Visit the KLR650 archives at >http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > >Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com >Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com >Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com >List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

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[monahanwb]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "J. Gregory" wrote:

> I don't know about the law where you live however in Arkansas it

is

> against the law to drive a motorcycle on the street with the

headlight off. Couple years ago I had an XL600 with a switched headlight. You knew immediately in the daytime if the light was off. All the cars would try to hit you, like they couldn't see you. I keep mine on, given the choice. My recently acquired Daytona 500 has a switched headlight, but it stays on. Sometimes when cars hit you it hurts, and bends the bike, too.