in praise of stuff that works...

[Bob_morphew@hotmail.com]

I'm new to this group - just bought my KLR650-A15 two weeks ago and I'm going to do the valve clearance check tomorrow. I've been reading the posts here and seeing references to computer software to calculate the shim size. I also checked the manual and saw large lookup tables to select the shims. Am I missing something here? Why do you need a computer or a lookup table? Surely if you check the clearance and it is wrong, you just change the shim for a one that is =(the old one + or - the error)? For example, if the correct gap is 0.15mm (.10 - .20mm) and my gap is .25mm then I need a shim =(old one + .10mm) as a thicker shim will make the gap smaller. If the actual gap is .05mm then I need a shim that is =(old one - .10mm), as a thinner shim will make the gap larger. This doesn't seem like rocket science, so perhaps I've missed something (?) Bob DR350S A-15

[Devon Jarvis]

Unless the last person who checked your valves (if there was one) did something unusual, the clearances will never be too loose. DOHC valve trains usually close the gap over time, because the cam/shim/bucket setup wears much, much slower than the valve and seat. The lookup table is useful because many people (including myself) are in the habit of setting the valves to the largest gap permissable in the manual. Since they close as they wear, this gives the maximum interval between changing shims. So you don't just want to put in a shim that gets you within the tolerance, you need to know which shim will give you the clearance you are looking for. The other way is to guesstimate, install the shim and then the cam and then check it again. Since the head is made from a soft alloy, and the cam bearing cap bolts are steel, the fewer times you have to undo all this the better. I don't have a computer in the garage, the manual, lookup table, and Eldon's valve adjustment instructions were plenty. Devon A15 Bob_morphew@... wrote:

> > I'm new to this group - just bought my KLR650-A15 two weeks ago and > I'm going to do the valve clearance check tomorrow. > > I've been reading the posts here and seeing references to computer > software to calculate the shim size. I also checked the manual and > saw large lookup tables to select the shims. > > Am I missing something here? Why do you need a computer or a lookup > table? Surely if you check the clearance and it is wrong, you just > change the shim for a one that is =(the old one + or - the error)? > > For example, if the correct gap is 0.15mm (.10 - .20mm) and my gap > is .25mm then I need a shim =(old one + .10mm) as a thicker shim will > make the gap smaller. If the actual gap is .05mm then I need a shim > that is =(old one - .10mm), as a thinner shim will make the gap > larger. > > This doesn't seem like rocket science, so perhaps I've missed > something (?) > > Bob > DR350S > A-15 > > Checkout Dual Sport News at > http://www.dualsportnews.com > Be part of the Adventure! > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > > Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com > Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[David Kelly]

On Mon, Nov 26, 2001 at 05:58:17PM -0000, Bob_morphew@... wrote:

> I'm new to this group - just bought my KLR650-A15 two weeks ago and > I'm going to do the valve clearance check tomorrow. > > I've been reading the posts here and seeing references to computer > software to calculate the shim size. I also checked the manual and > saw large lookup tables to select the shims. > > Am I missing something here? Why do you need a computer or a lookup > table? Surely if you check the clearance and it is wrong, you just > change the shim for a one that is =(the old one + or - the error)? > > For example, if the correct gap is 0.15mm (.10 - .20mm) and my gap > is .25mm then I need a shim =(old one + .10mm) as a thicker shim will > make the gap smaller. If the actual gap is .05mm then I need a shim > that is =(old one - .10mm), as a thinner shim will make the gap > larger. > > This doesn't seem like rocket science, so perhaps I've missed > something (?)

Its called, "The Dumbing-Down of America", which is also subject to itself as "dumb" isn't anything close to "stupid". But what the heck? "Dumb" sounds better. -- David Kelly N4HHE, dkelly@... ===================================================================== The human mind ordinarily operates at only ten percent of its capacity -- the rest is overhead for the operating system.

[Bill Pratt]

Why not consider this video for valves: Here is one person's comments: WOW!!! I just watched Phantom Rider's valve adjust video. This is the end all, put your mind at ease, tool for doing your own valve adjustments. I would swear the tape came from Hollywood or something; very professional. Great graphics, very clear clear video, excellent instructions. If you can 'fog a mirror', you can adjust KLR valves using this video. I know this sounds like a commericial, but I was *really* impressed! You can get info on the video at: http://www.angelfire.com/mo/motormark/PhantomRiderValveCheckVideo.html Also, a portion of the proceeds go towards the Susan G. Komen Breast Cancer Foudation. GREAT JOB!! Pat / Austin Bill Pratt, Mill Creek, WA STOC #117, '97 ST1100-ABS, '97 KLR-650 http://www.billpratt.com "No matter where you go...there you are!"

----- Original Message ----- From: To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, November 26, 2001 9:58 AM Subject: [DSN_klr650] Valve Clearance calculations > I'm new to this group - just bought my KLR650-A15 two weeks ago and > I'm going to do the valve clearance check tomorrow. > > I've been reading the posts here and seeing references to computer > software to calculate the shim size. I also checked the manual and > saw large lookup tables to select the shims. > > Am I missing something here? Why do you need a computer or a lookup > table? Surely if you check the clearance and it is wrong, you just > change the shim for a one that is =(the old one + or - the error)? > > For example, if the correct gap is 0.15mm (.10 - .20mm) and my gap > is .25mm then I need a shim =(old one + .10mm) as a thicker shim will > make the gap smaller. If the actual gap is .05mm then I need a shim > that is =(old one - .10mm), as a thinner shim will make the gap > larger. > > This doesn't seem like rocket science, so perhaps I've missed > something (?) > > Bob > DR350S > A-15 > > > > Checkout Dual Sport News at > http://www.dualsportnews.com > Be part of the Adventure! > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > > Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com > Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

[RM]

1. Slime, or actually Wal-Mart's "Victor" branded imitation product, saved my weekend. Changing my tube would have sucked, but instead I'm still riding around on a tire with a thorn or something in it. Pressure loss? About 1 psi per day. I can live with that for a few days. The little dab of goo oozing out of the tire doesn't stain the concrete. =) 2. The Cheng Shin C755 5.30x17 dirt knobby. Non-DOT, but who's checking? Probably inferior to a Bridgestone ($$$) or an IRC but I'll never notice on a stock KLR. Dirt traction up the wazoo, very resistant to chunking, no cracking, proven ability to handle hundreds of freeway miles at 70mph when properly inflated. And a whopping wallet-busting $38. Big knobs. Will take a chunk out of a KLR rear fender flap, but that's OK - I call it "dynamic machining for extra clearance as necessary." Tire clearance is a self-correcting problem, eventually. =) 3. 15psi in the rear. OK, it isn't a product, but dammit I really like the dynacruise ride over the rough stuff with a nice big balloony rear tire and low inflation pressure. Couple this with a rim lock and a front 3.25" Kenda and you have the ultimate recipe for someone too lazy to get off the saddle and too clueless to avoid the rocks. Shoulda tried this a long time ago... Ahhh, cush for the tush. RM <-- with delicate tushie