Engine ID Tag

[Mark Sellick]

Listers, I've recently bought an engine id tag (the one that goes on the flywheel housing) to replace the missing one on the TC's original engine. It appears to be etched brass, with a raised edge, and with a raised panel for the engine serial number. Clausager's "Original MG T-Series", page 27, shows a TC engine with this type of tag (the shot of the TB engine at the bottom of page 26 seems to show the same pattern). I've compared this to an id tag on a spare block (from a Y-Type). This is a stamped brass item, with a raised beading just in from the edge, and with only a bead around the serial number, not a raised panel. Does anyone know whether the reproduction tags correct for early engines. Have the cars given as examples above simply had these repro tags fitted? Mark TC1459 (orig XPAG 2148) [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Clive Sherriff]

No they are not correct - The originals were pressed with a die - Ive a couple early ones in front of me noe XPAG 745 and XPAG 4284 and a repro which is dimensionally OK but is not raised enough and is easily seen to be wrong. The nice thing about the bad repro parts is that you can at least spot the fakes!! Regards Clive =============================================

----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Sellick" mark.sellick@ukonline.co.uk> To: "T-ABCs Forever" mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Saturday, June 01, 2002 9:23 AM Subject: [mg-tabc] Engine ID Tag > Listers, > > I've recently bought an engine id tag (the one that goes on the flywheel housing) to replace the missing one on the TC's original engine. It appears to be etched brass, with a raised edge, and with a raised panel for the engine serial number. Clausager's "Original MG T-Series", page 27, shows a TC engine with this type of tag (the shot of the TB engine at the bottom of page 26 seems to show the same pattern). > > I've compared this to an id tag on a spare block (from a Y-Type). This is a stamped brass item, with a raised beading just in from the edge, and with only a bead around the serial number, not a raised panel. > > Does anyone know whether the reproduction tags correct for early engines. Have the cars given as examples above simply had these repro tags fitted? > > Mark > TC1459 (orig XPAG 2148) >

[Mark Sellick]

Clive, Thanks for your message - you've confirmed what I suspected. It's all very well being able to spot bad repro parts, but if the suppliers can make things like the bulkhead works plates to original pattern, then why not engine id tags? One of my chief bugbears is so-called "to-original-standard" parts which turn out to be an entirely different shape/pattern to what they supposedly replicate, and usually need fettling to make them fit. Small-volume production economics aside, surely its just as easy to make something that's right as it is to make something that's wrong? With the engine id tags, I can understand that its not econmically viable to make new presses to stamp out the tags, so etched brass makes sense. What I can't understand is that someone has had to sit down and draw artwork for the etch-resist. So why in the name of sanity couldn't they do it right? Well, that's got that off my chest! Regards, Mark TC1459

[Charles Hill]

I agree with you 100%. I've lost count of how many new parts I've sent back or tossed in the trash (depending on the cost) and use the original well used part. Unless it is completely broke, an original part is almost always better than a new part from Moss or Abingdon. For instance, I recently ordered a Windshield screw set from Moss. The screws that show, stanchion to frame are Phillips! Haven't checked, but I suspect that they are 10X32 instead of 2BA. Regards, Charles Hill

[David Lodge]

Charles, et al., Double Hear, hear! And I thought it was just me being obsessive! Why is it so difficult to get things that are correct? I'm reminded of a rant letter that I sent to MG Enthusiast magazine - and which they published - some years ago bemoaning the lack of quality and downright thievery of English so-called MG specialists (many of whom ,incidentally, are on this list's approved suppliers tally!). Like you, I've lost count of the items which have either been junked or are sitting on a shelf waiting to be fettled to fit/look right. Regards, David Lodge

> I agree with you 100%. I've lost count of how many new parts I've sent > back or tossed in the trash (depending on the cost) and use the original > well used part. Unless it is completely broke, an original part is > almost always better than a new part from Moss or Abingdon. For > instance, I recently ordered a Windshield screw set from Moss. The > screws that show, stanchion to frame are Phillips! Haven't checked, but > I suspect that they are 10X32 instead of 2BA. > > Regards, > Charles Hill > > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

[David Lodge]

Further, not to mention those that have been sent for re-plating, refurbishment, exchange, whatever; never top be seen or heard of again!! David Lodge

> Charles, et al., > Double Hear, hear! And I thought it was just me being obsessive! Why is it > so difficult to get things that are correct? I'm reminded of a rant letter > that I sent to MG Enthusiast magazine - and which they published - some > years ago bemoaning the lack of quality and downright thievery of English > so-called MG specialists (many of whom ,incidentally, are on this list's > approved suppliers tally!). Like you, I've lost count of the items which > have either been junked or are sitting on a shelf waiting to be fettled to > fit/look right. > Regards, David Lodge > > >> I agree with you 100%. I've lost count of how many new parts I've sent >> back or tossed in the trash (depending on the cost) and use the original >> well used part. Unless it is completely broke, an original part is >> almost always better than a new part from Moss or Abingdon. For >> instance, I recently ordered a Windshield screw set from Moss. The >> screws that show, stanchion to frame are Phillips! Haven't checked, but >> I suspect that they are 10X32 instead of 2BA. >> >> Regards, >> Charles Hill >> >> >> >> >> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ >> >> > > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

[Charles Hill]

Got a set of screws from Abingdon Spares. Much better quality set. Even includes the windshield to cowl screws - these are SAE thread. The rest fit just fine. I fit everything together while waiting for the new glass and everything seems to fit OK. Rant continues: First, I'm not too impressed with anything that is being sold as windshield wiper wire. All way too small gauge. My other car just has 2 14ga wires installed by a previous owner. Think thats what I'm going to do. I'll look for some sort of tubing to cover the small section that shows. 2nd: I bought a new Auster badge for the windscreen since everything else was being redone. They can't even get that right! Very close, but enough off to look tacky. And the rivet holes are too small and too far apart. A little work with a dremmel and it will fit, but once again, I think I'll go with the worn and faded original. Also, my original has all black lettering. The repo has red lettering. Which is the correct color? Regards, Charles Hill