Chassis Rivets

[Monoxidemanor@aol.com]

Dear Kimberites: I have obtained proper 5/16" chassis rivets from Carl at Moss Bradford. I have also had custom made the bit and die for the rivet gun and am ready to rivet away. Now, does anyone know the proper procedure to install the rivets? How much shaft should protrude from the end of the rivet that is to be peened over? Do we heat the rivets and if so how and how hot? Kindest regards, Alan Campbell

[capaciousmg@aol.com]

Alan We had to use replacement rivets to rebuild the frame on my TC as it was damaged. We did as you have, procured the rivets, and then made a die for the air hammer. I am not sure if it is accepted standard, but to get them to go tight, and move, or "mushroom" with any success, we had to heat the end cherry red, we then took to it with the air hammer with a large mass on the other end behind the rivet. Doing this made a good looking rivet head that was tight and stayed tight. I do no know if heating weakens the rivet, but I have 10,000 miles on the TC and have had no problems. Cannot remember the length left to work with which was optimum. As I remember, we tired a couple experimenting, until we got it right. Just had to grind them out and do them over. Regards Joe Potter In a message dated 1/8/2002 7:02:53 AM Pacific Standard Time, Monoxidemanor@aol.com writes:

Dear Kimberites: I have obtained proper 5/16" chassis rivets from Carl at Moss Bradford. I have also had custom made the bit and die for the rivet gun and am ready to rivet away. Now, does anyone know the proper procedure to install the rivets? How much shaft should protrude from the end of the rivet that is to be peened over? Do we heat the rivets and if so how and how hot? Kindest regards, Alan Campbell

[C Sherriff]

Message text written by INTERNET:Monoxidemanor@aol.com

>I have obtained proper 5/16" chassis rivets from Carl at Moss Bradford. I

have also had custom made the bit and die for the rivet gun and am ready to rivet away. Now, does anyone know the proper procedure to install the rivets? How much shaft should protrude from the end of the rivet that is to be peened over? Do we heat the rivets and if so how and how hot?

[joecurto@aol.com]

Alan according to my old A/C sheet metal book they wanted 1 1/2 to 2 times the diameter of the rivet to protrude, heavy stuff they said 2 to 2 1/2 diameter. They did not want the rivet to be loose in the hole, perhaps the rivet supplier can refer you to someone familiar with the process. Joe

[C Sherriff]

Message text written by INTERNET:JoeCurto@aol.com

>Alan according to my old A/C sheet metal book they wanted 1 1/2 to 2 times

the diameter of the rivet to protrude, heavy stuff they said 2 to 2 1/2 diameter. They did not want the rivet to be loose in the hole, perhaps the rivet supplier can refer you to someone familiar with the process.

[joecurto@aol.com]

Clive thanks for the confirmation, it has been a long time that I Bucked rivets but they say it is like riding a bicycle. Curto

[R. Zwart]

Back in the days of riveting.... They always finish reamed the hole just before placing the hot rivet in and driving it. At least that is the way they built field tanks in the petroleum industry... The rest of the data you got sounds correct also. BOB C Sherriff wrote:

Message text written by INTERNET:JoeCurto@aol.com >Alan according to my old A/C sheet metal book they wanted 1 1/2 to 2 times

the diameter of the rivet to protrude, heavy stuff they said 2 to 2 1/2 diameter. They did not want the rivet to be loose in the hole, perhaps the rivet supplier can refer you to someone familiar with the process.< =====================================================

It is absolutely essential that he rivet is NOT loose in the hole.

The first stage of the head forming process is that of driving the shank of the rivit down the holes in the flanges / plates for the rivet to compress down and expand in diameter to fill the gaps, Thats one reason the rivet needs to be good red heat to facilitate this process.

Once the gaps are filled then the process expands the shank to form the head, prior to the whole formed rivet cooling and so shrinking to finally clamping the two pieces together when the whole lot reaches the ambient temperature.

Clive

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[TWilson]

Onto the next question - many of the chassis rivets on TC0279 are loose. Replace them with new rivets, or reset them to snug them down? Tom Wilson

[pgl]

That's more of a problem. Any movement at all will cause wear and enlargement of the holes.  I understand the rivet holes and rivets are precision tapered to prevent any movement.  This could bring some interesting chatter from those knowledgable!  Pete Lund

On Oct 21, 2013, at 4:41, TWilson twilson@indy.rr.com> wrote:

  Onto the next question - many of the chassis rivets on TC0279 are loose. Replace them with new rivets, or reset them to snug them down? Tom Wilson

[Roger Furneaux]

I don't think they were ever tapered Peter! Rivets were traditionally heated prior to insertion, then as they were hammered the body expanded to give a tight fit in the hole. Any loose rivets will have opened up the holes so ideally new slightly oversize ones are needed. Due to the expense of doing this properly, I'm sure many people in the past simply replaced loose rivets with nuts-n-bolts. BTW we had this discussion many moons ago, when somebody (Clive?) gave a source of rivets here in the UK, something like the Rivet Supply Co. I would look it up but my not-very-broadband is even more sluggish today than usual...

 

cheers

 

Roger

 

Peter Lund wrote:

 

That's more of a problem. Any movement at all will cause wear and enlargement of the holes.  I understand the rivet holes and rivets are precision tapered to prevent any movement.  This could bring some interesting chatter from those knowledgable! 

Tom asked:

 

Onto the next question - many of the chassis rivets on TC0279 are loose. Replace them with new rivets, or reset them to snug them down?