oil leak

[David and Joyce Edgar]

I have had an oil leak that I have finally traced down. Oil is leaking out from the head where the number 3 exhaust push rod tube joins the head. It is the bottom joint as best I can tell. Is there a way of sealing this without pulling the head? Would a bead of JB Weld seal it once I clean down to bare metal? I rather not pull the head for now as it is driving season (but then it is always driving season in Southern California). If pulling the head is the only solution then what is the proper method of sealing? Normally a minor oil leak would not bother me but after converting to a leak free Chevy rear seal I am more particular, even though I know it really isn't an MG unless it leaks. Thank you in advance for any solutions, David Edgar, TC 5108 El Cajon, California

[joecurto@aol.com]

Dave I would tackle that leak in either of two ways, first I would clean area of paint and oil using scotch brite and brake clean, I would then get some of the loc-tite that is made for applying after things have been assembled, this will seep into the space harden and stop the leak. the other way is to remove the rocker assembly, and push rods and make a tapered plug to fit into the tube, and then get a large C clamp and try to reswege the tube, if it was the top side of the tube you would take a tapered punch insert into the tube and give it a whack with hammer. The loc tite way is probably the easiest, Joe Curto

[Want1937hd@aol.com]

<< a tapered plug to fit into the tube, and then get a large C clamp and try to reswege the tube, >> Joe, This sounds just like Stanley Steamer boiler repair.....with 500 less tubes. Bob TC4956

[David and Joyce Edgar]

Thank you Joe and Peter for great suggestion on the push rod tube leaks. I will start with the loc-tite idea first as it sounds the easiest. Will probably pull the valve cover off and treat the top of the tube area also just in case. The GLYPTAL product sounds promising too. David Edgar, TC 5108 El Cajon, California

>Dave I would tackle that leak in either of two ways, first I would clean area >of paint and oil using scotch brite and brake clean, I would then get some of >the loc-tite that is made for applying after things have been assembled, this >will seep into the space harden and stop the leak. the other way is to remove >the rocker assembly, and push rods and make a tapered plug to fit into the >tube, and then get a large C clamp and try to reswege the tube, if it was the >top side of the tube you would take a tapered punch insert into the tube and >give it a whack with hammer. The loc tite way is probably the easiest, > >Joe Curto

[Dave Osborn]

Walter I belive what maybe you are describing happened to me also on both cars. What I found was that the lip of the oil filter was fetching up on the filter mounting bracket. I discovered that Fram made filters with rims that didn't protrude beyond the edge of the filter and have used them ever since. Problem solved - filter tightens right up. Dave Osborn TC 10217 TD 6551 -----Original Message----- From: Walton Smith [mailto:waltonps@yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2002 2:40 PM To: mg-t@autox.team.net Subject: oil leak Recently in my quest for the Holy Grail of MG ownership, I as so many others before me was foolish attempting to achieve a non oil leaking TD. I purchased a spin-on oil filter adapter which replicated the remote mount canister type on early models. The adapter is sold by Bob G. and it is a beautiful display of quality workmanship, and I feel it aesthetically enhances the appearance of the engine bay. The problem which has now manifested after the alteration was complete is where I need assistance. The gasket interface between the spin-on filter and the adapter blows out from the side, and consequently results in a major amount of oil being pumped right to the ground. Twice this has occurred on cold start-up when the engine is brought up from cold idle to about 2400 RPMs. The oil pressure under the conditions of failure is about 115 psi. I have not checked the by-pass or relief valve, because I m not sure I would be able to ascertain a problem even upon examination. Any feedback or suggestions would be appreciated; Walt __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com /// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try /// http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/mg-t /// Send list postings to mg-t@autox.team.net /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.

[Fred Renner]

Dear Group Are there Is the approach to replace ways to abate the leaks from the rear axle.Is the approach to replace the oil return bushing or other oil seals. If anyone has encountered a similar situation I'd love to hear from you. Thanks. Fred Renner 4970

[Frank O_ The Mountain]

Doug Pelton has a full write up on this at www.fromtheframeup.com -----Original Message----- From: Fred Renner frenner1@nc.rr.com> To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sun, Apr 18, 2010 7:56 am Subject: [mg-tabc] oil leak Dear Group re there Is the approach to replace ways to abate the leaks from the rear xle.Is the approach to replace the oil return bushing or other oil seals. If nyone has encountered a similar situation I'd love to hear from you. Thanks. red Renner 970 ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links Individual Email | Traditional http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Roger Furneaux]

hi Fred - the tried and tested solution is to fit my hub nuts with lip seals incorporated. These stop the oil getting out of the axle case and onto the brakes: in fact the old oil return bushes can be left out altogether! This is one of the most common problems with our cars, brought about by a design inherited from a Morris saloon, which was never intended to go round corners fast Doug Pelton stocks these, I also sell them on eBay. ocTagonally TCRoger

On 18 Apr 2010, at 15:56, Fred Renner wrote: > Dear Group > Are there Is the approach to replace ways to abate the leaks from the rear axle.Is the approach to replace the oil return bushing or other oil seals. If anyone has encountered a similar situation I'd love to hear from you. Thanks. > Fred Renner > 4970 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[James Hallett]

Hi Fred - I've just reassembled my differential - I had 3 sources of leak. 1 - some of the 10 bolts holding the pumpkin to the housing were loose - my housing had bolts threaded from the inside of the housing, with nuts from the outside to apply the torque. I reset the bolts in the housing with a little thread sealant on each, and used blue permatex on both sides of the paper gasket and made sure I evenly torqued all 10 nuts. 2 - a slight leak around the 4 studs securing the drive thrust bearing housing - a little thread sealant on reassembly. 3 - the oil return spiral on the flange - I replaced with one of Doug Pelton's lip seal flanges - watch to be certain you have a decent smooth running face on the prop flange for the new seal surfaces. Cheers, James Hallett TC 6902, Pembroke, Bermuda [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[James Hallett]

Sorry - just realized I addressed the "other" leaks of differential oil! Roger has addressed Fred's original question - I have also used the rubber lip seal nuts he refers to and they help significantly, but be sure to be certain that any other bearing and hub set-up issues are also well taken care of. James Hallett TC 6902, Pembroke, Bermuda From: James Hallett [mailto:jhallett@elevado.org] Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 10:01 AM To: 'frenner1@nc.rr.com' Cc: 'mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com' Subject: Re:oil leak Hi Fred - I've just reassembled my differential - I had 3 sources of leak. 1 - some of the 10 bolts holding the pumpkin to the housing were loose - my housing had bolts threaded from the inside of the housing, with nuts from the outside to apply the torque. I reset the bolts in the housing with a little thread sealant on each, and used blue permatex on both sides of the paper gasket and made sure I evenly torqued all 10 nuts. 2 - a slight leak around the 4 studs securing the drive thrust bearing housing - a little thread sealant on reassembly. 3 - the oil return spiral on the flange - I replaced with one of Doug Pelton's lip seal flanges - watch to be certain you have a decent smooth running face on the prop flange for the new seal surfaces. Cheers, James Hallett TC 6902, Pembroke, Bermuda [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]