helmet study
-
Porter H. Watson
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Sun Nov 26, 2000 5:05 pm
need help
Anyone on list who lives in San Antonio please contact me off list. Need
someone to go start my bike and ride it a little. Thanks.---PHW
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
-
squidwannabe@hotmail.com
- Posts: 262
- Joined: Wed Mar 21, 2001 3:56 pm
need help
You'd be surprised what these guys can cure over the net.. What's the
problem ?
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Porter H. Watson" wrote: > Anyone on list who lives in San Antonio please contact me off list. Need > someone to go start my bike and ride it a little. Thanks.---PHW > > > > > > _______________________________________________________ > Send a cool gift with your E-Card > http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
-
Thomas J Komjathy
- Posts: 270
- Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2001 7:57 am
need help
GlacierOK, here we go...I've been bleeding the brakes on my KiLleR Sis Fiddy. After three bottles of fluid, pumping it through, sucking it through, with a "Mighty Vac", raising the caliper higher than the master cylinder, pumping, and sucking some more, I still have a very spongy lever, which I can squeeze all the way to the grip, very easily. No leaks are evident, anywhere. It has a steel braided line installed...What the F%&* am I missing here. I've done many brakes before, but never have I experienced this. Please, any help would be appreciated.
TK
Thomas Komjathy
DSK
Diversified Safety Kompany
1031 E Seminole Drive
Byron, GA 31008
(478) 956-5801
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
-
Randall Marbach
- Posts: 404
- Joined: Sat Oct 18, 2003 6:57 pm
need help
Hi Thomas
The only thing that I noticed about bleeding the front
brake line is to make sure that there are no "loops"
in the brake line where air can get trapped. This
typically is the case where the brake line comes up
from the instrument area over towards the master
cylinder. The entire brake line needs to be below the
level of the master cylinder.
HTH
Randy from Burbank
--- Thomas J Komjathy wrote:
__________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? The all-new My Yahoo! - What will yours do? http://my.yahoo.com> > GlacierOK, here we go...I've been bleeding the > brakes on my KiLleR Sis Fiddy. After three bottles > of fluid, pumping it through, sucking it through, > with a "Mighty Vac", raising the caliper higher than > the master cylinder, pumping, and sucking some more, > I still have a very spongy lever, which I can > squeeze all the way to the grip, very easily. No > leaks are evident, anywhere. It has a steel braided > line installed...What the F%&* am I missing here. > I've done many brakes before, but never have I > experienced this. Please, any help would be > appreciated. > > TK > Thomas Komjathy > DSK > Diversified Safety Kompany > 1031 E Seminole Drive > Byron, GA 31008 > (478) 956-5801 > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been > removed] > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at > www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: > www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > > > > > >
-
John Kokola
- Posts: 332
- Joined: Tue Oct 12, 2004 9:46 pm
need help
Here's a thread from the WERA board regarding this issue. There are a bunch
of tricks you can do to get those elusive bubbles out of the system.
http://forums.13x.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=60718
--John Kokola
> -----Original Message----- > From: Thomas J Komjathy [mailto:dskinc@...] > > After three bottles of fluid, pumping it > through, sucking it through, with a "Mighty Vac", raising the > caliper higher than the master cylinder, pumping, and sucking > some more, I still have a very spongy lever, which I can squeeze > all the way to the grip, very easily.
-
Charles Earl
- Posts: 237
- Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 10:22 am
need help
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 2004 19:36:57 -0500
From: "Thomas J Komjathy"
After installing a braided steel front line and speed
bleeders, I was having trouble too. Slowly squeezing
the lever through it's whole stroke wasn't getting all
the air out. So I mimiced what I have seen my
motorcycle mechanic friend do. When initially
refilling the drained system with fluid, he uses short
rapid strokes out in the middle of the lever's travel.
Then he finishes the bleeding the normal way.
This worked for me and my front brake is rock solid. I
only wasted a small amount of new fluid. Why it
worked, I have no idea. Not very scientific I know.
I'll have to ask my friend why he does this.
Charles
GlacierOK, here we go...I've been bleeding the brakes
on my KiLleR Sis
Fiddy. After three bottles of fluid, pumping it
through, sucking it
through, with a "Mighty Vac", raising the caliper
higher than the master
cylinder, pumping, and sucking some more, I still have
a very spongy
lever, which I can squeeze all the way to the grip,
very easily. No leaks
are evident, anywhere. It has a steel braided line
installed...What the
F%&* am I missing here. I've done many brakes before,
but never have I
experienced this. Please, any help would be
appreciated.
TK
Thomas Komjathy
DSK
Diversified Safety Kompany
1031 E Seminole Drive
Byron, GA 31008
(478) 956-5801
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - 250MB free storage. Do more. Manage less.
http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250
-
Fred Hink
- Posts: 2434
- Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2000 10:08 am
need help
If you have a soft rear brake, I have seen several times where the brakepads
have come out of their carrier and caused a soft pedal. It takes a lot of
pumping from the front master cylinder to get the all the air out, since the
line is much longer. Start with keeping the master cylinder full and
bleeding them normally. Once they start to get firm, it should only takes a
couple more times till the lever is hard. You are bleeding your brakes by
closing the bleeder valve between pumping up the master cylinder, aren't
you? Bleeding brakes = pump, pump, pump, hold lever/brake pedal down, open
valve, close valve, repeat, etc.
Fred
http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/cmc.html
----- Original Message ----- From: "Thomas J Komjathy" To: "KLR Group" DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Sunday, December 12, 2004 5:36 PM Subject: [DSN_klr650] Need help > > GlacierOK, here we go...I've been bleeding the brakes on my KiLleR Sis Fiddy. After three bottles of fluid, pumping it through, sucking it through, with a "Mighty Vac", raising the caliper higher than the master cylinder, pumping, and sucking some more, I still have a very spongy lever, which I can squeeze all the way to the grip, very easily. No leaks are evident, anywhere. It has a steel braided line installed...What the F%&* am I missing here. I've done many brakes before, but never have I experienced this. Please, any help would be appreciated. > > TK > Thomas Komjathy > DSK > Diversified Safety Kompany > 1031 E Seminole Drive > Byron, GA 31008 > (478) 956-5801
-
Thomas J Komjathy
- Posts: 270
- Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2001 7:57 am
need help
Thanks to all you guys with the brake advice, links etc. Gotter fixed, and
ready to ride.
TK
----- Original Message ----- From: "John Kokola" To: "Thomas J Komjathy" ; "KLR Group" DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Sunday, December 12, 2004 10:00 PM Subject: RE: [DSN_klr650] Need help > > Here's a thread from the WERA board regarding this issue. There are a bunch > of tricks you can do to get those elusive bubbles out of the system. > > http://forums.13x.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=60718 > > --John Kokola > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Thomas J Komjathy [mailto:dskinc@...] > > > > After three bottles of fluid, pumping it > > through, sucking it through, with a "Mighty Vac", raising the > > caliper higher than the master cylinder, pumping, and sucking > > some more, I still have a very spongy lever, which I can squeeze > > all the way to the grip, very easily. > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > >
-
Thomas Komjathy
- Posts: 140
- Joined: Sat Apr 23, 2005 6:02 pm
need help
Yes folks, the rotor on the new engine I just purchased has officially kicked my ass.
Sequence of events are;
1. Rotor puller bolt stripped (took two hours to get it out).
2. Cur stripped portion of puller bolt off, cleaned threads on rotor, then stripped puller bolt again. Yes I gave it a couple of good whacks with a hammer.
3. Cut last portion of puller bolt, turned, wack, turn, wack, turn, wack......stripped puller bolt again, and now the rotor threads are shot. Oh, while wacking the rotor puller bolt, one of the magnets cracked and came off.... Yes, I heated the rotor prior the third attempt.
4. cut a relief in the rotor to help loosen it.
I need help here, can anyone give me any suggestion as to how to get this mother F&*(ker off. Thankfully I have another rotor.
TK
Thomas Komjathy
Diversified Safety Konsulting, LLC
---------------------------------
All-new Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
-
Jeff Saline
- Posts: 2246
- Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2003 6:02 pm
need help
On Mon, 28 Aug 2006 10:25:14 -0700 (PDT) Thomas Komjathy
writes:
Thomas,
Sounds like you've got a very stuck rotor. My long distance I can't see,
touch or really help solution is...
Ddrrrruuuuuummmmmmm roll, please.
Find a large grade 8 nut and bolt (fine thread if possible) that will
approximate the diameter of the puller. Weld the nut on the end of the
rotor. You now have new threads on the end of the rotor. Maybe do the
El Kroko anti-seize on the washer and bolt end trick to make the bolt
move a bit easier. I'd probably also put some anti-seize on the
bolt/puller threads. Then I'd also probably put some oil in the hole so
if I was lucky I'd get some hydraulic pressure. Once the bolt/puller was
in place and tight I'd start welding a bead around the rotor where it
surrounds the end of the crank. This is just to provide extreme heat to
the rotor for hopeful expansion. Then I'd probably do what you've
already done with the hammer whacks on the end of the bolt/puller with
some more tightening it too. Maybe a couple of passes around the entire
rotor would be needed to get the rotor pretty darn hot.
If that didn't work my next attempt would probably involve a plasma
cutter, cut off wheel and a prayer or two.
Good luck,
Jeff Saline
ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal
Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org
The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota
75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT<><><><><><><><> ><><><><><><><><>> Yes folks, the rotor on the new engine I just purchased has > officially kicked my ass. > > Sequence of events are; > 1. Rotor puller bolt stripped (took two hours to get it out). > 2. Cur stripped portion of puller bolt off, cleaned threads on > rotor, then stripped puller bolt again. Yes I gave it a couple of > good whacks with a hammer. > 3. Cut last portion of puller bolt, turned, wack, turn, wack, > turn, wack......stripped puller bolt again, and now the rotor > threads are shot. Oh, while wacking the rotor puller bolt, one of > the magnets cracked and came off.... Yes, I heated the rotor prior > the third attempt. > 4. cut a relief in the rotor to help loosen it. > > I need help here, can anyone give me any suggestion as to how > to get this mother F&*(ker off. Thankfully I have another rotor. > > TK > Thomas Komjathy > Diversified Safety Konsulting, LLC