voltmeter power outlet

[mrgadgetklr]

I had the same problem, I went to these super heavy duty zip ties, there in the electrical section of Home Depot, about 36" long, you can make two wraps around the tube. Works real well. John

[Adam]

The tube will save your shifter in a fall in some cases also, definetly a help with the water pump. 300 miles into Baja, I like having an abundance of tools and the weight low! costs about $10.00 to make too. I haven't dont the compressor thing but it doesn't look too hard to make and "out of sight, out of mind." Or mayby "if you have it you won't need it?" I like the second one better. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Rodney Copeland" wrote:

> > I'm with Ya Adam. > I have three tool tubes mounted that store tools wherever I go. > From the dragstrip to the mountains, I have all the tools I could > need. > I also have a 12v air compressor hard mounted under the tank. > You can't be too prepared when you're in nowhere land. > Rod > >

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/zrod73026/detail?.dir=89ed&.dnm=4dc2.jp g

> &.src=ph > >

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/zrod73026/detail?.dir=89ed&.dnm=2ad2.jp g

> &.src=ph > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Adam" wrote: > > > > I put the "bazooka tube in front of the engine attached to the > front > > of my skid plate. BTW, get the skid plate, a lot cheaper than

an

> > engine case. I used a 4" black abs pipe, slightly narrower than > the > > width of the front pegs with screw caps on each end, weight is

low,

> > pipe is almost indestructible, and also serves as highway pegs

if

> > needed to stretch. I certainly didnt invent it, but I love it!! > > > > Adam > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Gregory Caruso > > wrote: > > > > > > Hi all, > > > Where is a place to buy tools for the bike? I just purchased > > an '06 KLR650 and n need of tools. I am trying to locate 1/4"

and

> > 3/8" drive torque wrenches at the time but the wife says, "I

have a

> > budget to stay under." > > > > > > Any information on where to get tools will be appreciated. > > > > > > Thanks > > > gc > > > > > > __________________________________________________ > > > Do You Yahoo!? > > > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection

around

> > > http://mail.yahoo.com > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > >

[Jim Tegler]

Howdy,I'm surprised that no one has cautioned against attaching your tool tube to the skid plate. I did and one little fall caused it to rip off the skid plate from its mounting bolts! I learned from that.Jim A5

Howdy,

_________________________________________________________________ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Tengai Mark Van Horn]

At 9:15 PM -0400 6/6/08, Jim Tegler wrote:

>Howdy,I'm surprised that no one has cautioned against attaching your >tool tube to the skid plate. I did and one little fall caused it to >rip off the skid plate from its mounting bolts! I learned from >that.Jim A5

I have warned, and I've seen a few tool tubes crack open like an egg. But nobody listens to me because I've only been on this list for 10 years and logged in excess of 140,000 miles on KLRs. All the noobs would rather send bitchy responses when I tell it like it is. Mark

[E.L. Green]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Tengai Mark Van Horn wrote:

> At 9:15 PM -0400 6/6/08, Jim Tegler wrote: > >Howdy,I'm surprised that no one has cautioned against attaching your > >tool tube to the skid plate. I did and one little fall caused it to > >rip off the skid plate from its mounting bolts! I learned from > >that.Jim A5 > > I have warned, and I've seen a few tool tubes crack open like an egg.

I'm utterly baffled. I've dropped my KLR probably a dozen times since I attached my tool tube to my skid plate, and all that's happened is that the ends of my crash bars have gotten a bit beat up. Wait... crash bars? Somebody expects their *tool tube* to serve as a crash bar? DOH! (Slaps head with dead herring).

> would rather send bitchy responses when I tell it like it is.

I actually looked at mounting my tool tube higher, roughly parallel with the engine guard/crash guard. However, close examination of clearances showed that at full compression, my 3" ABS tool tube *would* contact the tire if I mounted it there. So I mounted it lower, basically in the gap between the crash bars and the skid plate. The tire clears it at full compression at that location, and because I cut it to be shorter than the crash bars, thus far I've had no problems when I've managed to drop the bike (or once when a bear knocked over the bike and it spent a couple days on its side, no big deal, just scuffed the paint a little heh!). -E

[Rick]

Now this is fun. 10 years and 140,000 miles. Wow. Now I maintain 2 klr's, my wife's and mine. They are 3 years old and together have 45,000 miles on them and have been to Canada, Alaska and most of Mexico and Central America. Whoopie doo for both of us. Now, I agree with EL. What a concept to use Gladiator Gear, aka, crash bars, and the tool tubes don't take the beating, especially when, as EL says, they are inside the crash bars. Wow, that EL guy is smart. Also, I personally, like the 3" size. Now what I have found is the stainless steel straps seems to die on their own whims. Last weekend on the way to Moab from Colorado, I had 3 stainless straps break for no apparent reason, I hadn't even crashed. But what I had read somewhere on one of these sites, is to use 18" zip ties. At the Canyonlands Classic last weekend, a small group rode up to Island in the Sky and I was mentioning the bands breaking. Tim from Sacramento was using the zipties and gave me one. I have since gone to Lowe's to pick up a couple of packs of zipties and I am giving them a shot. Plus Tim also uses a velco strap wrapped around the center of his tube. One thing I did find that cracked both of our tubes is the extra little nub of threads on the U bolt on the front of the skid plate. I have cut those off recently and made new tubes. So I will see how that does. I may take a small piece of rubber( old piece of bicycle tube, etc) and cover the two nuts that protrude from the U bolt for a bit more protection for the tube.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "E.L. Green" wrote: > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Tengai Mark Van Horn > wrote: > > At 9:15 PM -0400 6/6/08, Jim Tegler wrote: > > >Howdy,I'm surprised that no one has cautioned against attaching your > > >tool tube to the skid plate. I did and one little fall caused it to > > >rip off the skid plate from its mounting bolts! I learned from > > >that.Jim A5 > > > > I have warned, and I've seen a few tool tubes crack open like an egg. > > I'm utterly baffled. I've dropped my KLR probably a dozen times since > I attached my tool tube to my skid plate, and all that's happened is > that the ends of my crash bars have gotten a bit beat up. Wait... > crash bars? Somebody expects their *tool tube* to serve as a crash > bar? DOH! (Slaps head with dead herring). > > > would rather send bitchy responses when I tell it like it is. > > I actually looked at mounting my tool tube higher, roughly parallel > with the engine guard/crash guard. However, close examination of > clearances showed that at full compression, my 3" ABS tool tube > *would* contact the tire if I mounted it there. So I mounted it lower, > basically in the gap between the crash bars and the skid plate. The > tire clears it at full compression at that location, and because I cut > it to be shorter than the crash bars, thus far I've had no problems > when I've managed to drop the bike (or once when a bear knocked over > the bike and it spent a couple days on its side, no big deal, just > scuffed the paint a little heh!). > > -E >

[Greg May]

   Hi Rick, I don't use a tool tube so i can't comment on how I mounted mine but I can pass on a little on the use of ty wraps. Over the years I have used many many thousands of them for securing various sizes of power and control cables, notice I said securing not supporting. For quick and dirty use on cabling they are hard to beat but they do have a few problems some real and some perhaps precieved.      Some of the issues I have found with ty wraps in no real order would be if you bought them at a large chain store there is a good chance that they are not fit for your intended use, check inside the "head" where the little latch tab is that prevents the strap from pulling back out of itself, if you don't see a small stainless steel tab just a moulded tab I wouldn't use them they will probably fail quite quickly if subjected to shock loads. Also a trait of the moulded tab seems to be failing at any nicks as the molded tab variety seem to be made of a more brittle material. I have seen the molded tab type fail with not a lot of strain on them in a rolling wire track after the first extension retraction cycle where the stainless steel tabbed type would last for a year maybe.      Another issue and this is only from personal experience unless the rating is on the bag the ty wraps come in, avoid using the white one's outside, use the black ones. UV exposure causes the white ones to get brittle and fail where the black ones last for years. I'm not sure if this happens because of their composition but I have been told that the black ones are for outside use but I have never confirmed because I have seen the white ones fail when used outside while the black ones survive so I just  use the black ones.      For years tywraps were used to secure and support flat and vertical runs of cable, several years ago suddenly according to the Electrical Inspection department in Nova Scotia were were no longer allowed to use them for supporting cable, the reason given was because they don't have a listed load rating so they can't be approved to support anything, at the time we did check and could find no listed load rating for the couple types we would use. I did lately notice that the tywraps that are made or stainless steel rather the nylon do have a listed load rating but these are expensive.      Hopefully the above info is of use to you, a 3" plastic tube coming off or partially  off between your front and read tire at speed is definitely not what I would consider a good thing. The tywraps I use are made by Thomas and Betts and do have the stainless steel tab and should be available at most electrical suppliers but personally I would look at using a proper metal pipe strap if you already had an aluminum skid plate installed. Anyway all the above is personal experience and i'm sure others will have different opinions...have a great day.....Greg 

--- On Sun, 6/8/08, rick wrote: From: rick Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Tool tube To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Received: Sunday, June 8, 2008, 2:04 AM Now this is fun. 10 years and 140,000 miles. Wow. Now I maintain 2 klr's, my wife's and mine. They are 3 years old and together have 45,000 miles on them and have been to Canada, Alaska and most of Mexico and Central America. Whoopie doo for both of us. Now, I agree with EL. What a concept to use Gladiator Gear, aka, crash bars, and the tool tubes don't take the beating, especially when, as EL says, they are inside the crash bars. Wow, that EL guy is smart. Also, I personally, like the 3" size. Now what I have found is the stainless steel straps seems to die on their own whims. Last weekend on the way to Moab from Colorado, I had 3 stainless straps break for no apparent reason, I hadn't even crashed. But what I had read somewhere on one of these sites, is to use 18" zip ties. At the Canyonlands Classic last weekend, a small group rode up to Island in the Sky and I was mentioning the bands breaking. Tim from Sacramento was using the zipties and gave me one. I have since gone to Lowe's to pick up a couple of packs of zipties and I am giving them a shot. Plus Tim also uses a velco strap wrapped around the center of his tube. One thing I did find that cracked both of our tubes is the extra little nub of threads on the U bolt on the front of the skid plate. I have cut those off recently and made new tubes. So I will see how that does. I may take a small piece of rubber( old piece of bicycle tube, etc) and cover the two nuts that protrude from the U bolt for a bit more protection for the tube. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, "E.L. Green" wrote: > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, Tengai Mark Van Horn > wrote: > > At 9:15 PM -0400 6/6/08, Jim Tegler wrote: > > >Howdy,I'm surprised that no one has cautioned against attaching your > > >tool tube to the skid plate. I did and one little fall caused it to > > >rip off the skid plate from its mounting bolts! I learned from > > >that.Jim A5 > > > > I have warned, and I've seen a few tool tubes crack open like an egg. > > I'm utterly baffled. I've dropped my KLR probably a dozen times since > I attached my tool tube to my skid plate, and all that's happened is > that the ends of my crash bars have gotten a bit beat up. Wait... > crash bars? Somebody expects their *tool tube* to serve as a crash > bar? DOH! (Slaps head with dead herring). > > > would rather send bitchy responses when I tell it like it is. > > I actually looked at mounting my tool tube higher, roughly parallel > with the engine guard/crash guard. However, close examination of > clearances showed that at full compression, my 3" ABS tool tube > *would* contact the tire if I mounted it there. So I mounted it lower, > basically in the gap between the crash bars and the skid plate. The > tire clears it at full compression at that location, and because I cut > it to be shorter than the crash bars, thus far I've had no problems > when I've managed to drop the bike (or once when a bear knocked over > the bike and it spent a couple days on its side, no big deal, just > scuffed the paint a little heh!). > > -E > __________________________________________________________________ Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail. Click on Options in Mail and switch to New Mail today or register for free at http://mail.yahoo.ca [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Rick]

Greg,thanks for the response. As a builder and general handyman around the house and motorcycle, I have used zip ties for years. I totally understand your comments on support as I build with lots of engineered plans so my building don't fail. That said, the stainless straps (clamps) I use are actually hose clamps and hose clamps have no structural value either( how many of us over the years have ever seen a hose clamp on a hose fail?). I could go back to what has worked in so many situations over the years, duct tape and bailing wire. But what I would like to find is a neat setup that may work. I always start with 4 clamps on my tube so even if 2 have broken, I have never had the issue of the tool tube in the wheel even though I have had a floppy tool tube. Trust me, I am aware of the consequences and that is why I am looking for something that may last a longer period of time rather than shorter. One of the things that causes the stainless clamps to fail is the sharp angles of the radiator guards/skid plate setup. I am not willing to compromise the integrity of that setup, so I will continue to look for a long lasting alternative. I also noted your comment on the ziptie with the metal catch. Some of my zipties I use have them and some not. I have an account at my local electrical supply, I'll go down and see what they have. Maybe I will get a hold of one of my structural/civil engineers and have them design something( can you imagine the end product). Then, I too, will be a seller of KLR farkle. Thanks for your response.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Greg May wrote: > >    Hi Rick, I don't use a tool tube so i can't comment on how I mounted mine but I can pass on a little on the use of ty wraps. Over the years I have used many many thousands of them for securing various sizes of power and control cables, notice I said securing not supporting. For quick and dirty use on cabling they are hard to beat but they do have a few problems some real and some perhaps precieved. >   >    Some of the issues I have found with ty wraps in no real order would be if you bought them at a large chain store there is a good chance that they are not fit for your intended use, check inside the "head" where the little latch tab is that prevents the strap from pulling back out of itself, if you don't see a small stainless steel tab just a moulded tab I wouldn't use them they will probably fail quite quickly if subjected to shock loads. Also a trait of the moulded tab seems to be failing at any nicks as the molded tab variety seem to be made of a more brittle material. I have seen the molded tab type fail with not a lot of strain on them in a rolling wire track after the first extension retraction cycle where the stainless steel tabbed type would last for a year maybe. >   >    Another issue and this is only from personal experience unless the rating is on the bag the ty wraps come in, avoid using the white one's outside, use the black ones. UV exposure causes the white ones to get brittle and fail where the black ones last for years. I'm not sure if this happens because of their composition but I have been told that the black ones are for outside use but I have never confirmed because I have seen the white ones fail when used outside while the black ones survive so I just  use the black ones. >   >    For years tywraps were used to secure and support flat and vertical runs of cable, several years ago suddenly according to the Electrical Inspection department in Nova Scotia were were no longer allowed to use them for supporting cable, the reason given was because they don't have a listed load rating so they can't be approved to support anything, at the time we did check and could find no listed load rating for the couple types we would use. I did lately notice that the tywraps that are made or stainless steel rather the nylon do have a listed load rating but these are expensive. >   >    Hopefully the above info is of use to you, a 3" plastic tube coming off or partially  off between your front and read tire at speed is definitely not what I would consider a good thing. The tywraps I use are made by Thomas and Betts and do have the stainless steel tab and should be available at most electrical suppliers but personally I would look at using a proper metal pipe strap if you already had an aluminum skid plate installed. Anyway all the above is personal experience and i'm sure others will have different opinions...have a great day.....Greg  > > --- On Sun, 6/8/08, rick colomtnbiker@... wrote: > > From: rick colomtnbiker@... > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Tool tube > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Received: Sunday, June 8, 2008, 2:04 AM > > > > > > > Now this is fun. 10 years and 140,000 miles. Wow. Now I maintain 2 > klr's, my wife's and mine. They are 3 years old and together have > 45,000 miles on them and have been to Canada, Alaska and most of > Mexico and Central America. Whoopie doo for both of us. Now, I agree > with EL. What a concept to use Gladiator Gear, aka, crash bars, and > the tool tubes don't take the beating, especially when, as EL says, > they are inside the crash bars. Wow, that EL guy is smart. Also, I > personally, like the 3" size. > Now what I have found is the stainless steel straps seems to die on > their own whims. Last weekend on the way to Moab from Colorado, I had > 3 stainless straps break for no apparent reason, I hadn't even > crashed. But what I had read somewhere on one of these sites, is to > use 18" zip ties. At the Canyonlands Classic last weekend, a small > group rode up to Island in the Sky and I was mentioning the bands > breaking. Tim from Sacramento was using the zipties and gave me one. I > have since gone to Lowe's to pick up a couple of packs of zipties and > I am giving them a shot. Plus Tim also uses a velco strap wrapped > around the center of his tube. > One thing I did find that cracked both of our tubes is the extra > little nub of threads on the U bolt on the front of the skid plate. I > have cut those off recently and made new tubes. So I will see how that > does. I may take a small piece of rubber( old piece of bicycle tube, > etc) and cover the two nuts that protrude from the U bolt for a bit > more protection for the tube. > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, "E.L. Green" eric@ wrote: > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, Tengai Mark Van Horn > > wrote: > > > At 9:15 PM -0400 6/6/08, Jim Tegler wrote: > > > >Howdy,I'm surprised that no one has cautioned against attaching your > > > >tool tube to the skid plate. I did and one little fall caused it to > > > >rip off the skid plate from its mounting bolts! I learned from > > > >that.Jim A5 > > > > > > I have warned, and I've seen a few tool tubes crack open like an egg. > > > > I'm utterly baffled. I've dropped my KLR probably a dozen times since > > I attached my tool tube to my skid plate, and all that's happened is > > that the ends of my crash bars have gotten a bit beat up. Wait... > > crash bars? Somebody expects their *tool tube* to serve as a crash > > bar? DOH! (Slaps head with dead herring). > > > > > would rather send bitchy responses when I tell it like it is. > > > > I actually looked at mounting my tool tube higher, roughly parallel > > with the engine guard/crash guard. However, close examination of > > clearances showed that at full compression, my 3" ABS tool tube > > *would* contact the tire if I mounted it there. So I mounted it lower, > > basically in the gap between the crash bars and the skid plate. The > > tire clears it at full compression at that location, and because I cut > > it to be shorter than the crash bars, thus far I've had no problems > > when I've managed to drop the bike (or once when a bear knocked over > > the bike and it spent a couple days on its side, no big deal, just > > scuffed the paint a little heh!). > > > > -E > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________________________________________ > Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail. Click on Options in Mail and switch to New Mail today or register for free at http://mail.yahoo.ca > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Greg May]

   Hi Rick, something you might want to look at would be the stainless steel ty wraps, they aren't a good option for my use because of price, I think about $1.50 each and I might use 100 to 1000 in a cable tray, but since you only need a few to serve your purpose they might be a good option. The concern I have with regular ty wraps is the way they fail, usually completely all at once vs a hose clamp that just strips and allows things to rattle around. I did a quick Google search and came up with the link below, this place has a weight rating on their ty wraps so it shows the difference between some of the different types. have a great day.....Greg   http://www.cabletiesexpress.com/cable_ties.html

--- On Sun, 6/8/08, rick wrote: From: rick Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Tool tube To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Received: Sunday, June 8, 2008, 1:40 PM Greg,thanks for the response. As a builder and general handyman around the house and motorcycle, I have used zip ties for years. I totally understand your comments on support as I build with lots of engineered plans so my building don't fail. That said, the stainless straps (clamps) I use are actually hose clamps and hose clamps have no structural value either( how many of us over the years have ever seen a hose clamp on a hose fail?). I could go back to what has worked in so many situations over the years, duct tape and bailing wire. But what I would like to find is a neat setup that may work. I always start with 4 clamps on my tube so even if 2 have broken, I have never had the issue of the tool tube in the wheel even though I have had a floppy tool tube. Trust me, I am aware of the consequences and that is why I am looking for something that may last a longer period of time rather than shorter. One of the things that causes the stainless clamps to fail is the sharp angles of the radiator guards/skid plate setup. I am not willing to compromise the integrity of that setup, so I will continue to look for a long lasting alternative. I also noted your comment on the ziptie with the metal catch. Some of my zipties I use have them and some not. I have an account at my local electrical supply, I'll go down and see what they have. Maybe I will get a hold of one of my structural/civil engineers and have them design something( can you imagine the end product). Then, I too, will be a seller of KLR farkle. Thanks for your response. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, Greg May wrote: > > Hi Rick, I don't use a tool tube so i can't comment on how I mounted mine but I can pass on a little on the use of ty wraps. Over the years I have used many many thousands of them for securing various sizes of power and control cables, notice I said securing not supporting. For quick and dirty use on cabling they are hard to beat but they do have a few problems some real and some perhaps precieved. > > Some of the issues I have found with ty wraps in no real order would be if you bought them at a large chain store there is a good chance that they are not fit for your intended use, check inside the "head" where the little latch tab is that prevents the strap from pulling back out of itself, if you don't see a small stainless steel tab just a moulded tab I wouldn't use them they will probably fail quite quickly if subjected to shock loads. Also a trait of the moulded tab seems to be failing at any nicks as the molded tab variety seem to be made of a more brittle material. I have seen the molded tab type fail with not a lot of strain on them in a rolling wire track after the first extensio n retraction cycle where the stainless steel tabbed type would last for a year maybe. > > Another issue and this is only from personal experience unless the rating is on the bag the ty wraps come in, avoid& nbsp;using the white one's outside, use the black ones. UV exposure& nbsp;causes the white ones to get brittle and fail where the black ones last for years. I'm not sure if this happens because of their composition but I have been told that the black ones are for outside use but I have never confirmed because I have seen the white ones fail when used outside while the black ones survive so I just use the black ones. > > For years tywraps were used to secure and support flat and vertical runs of cable, several years ago suddenly according to the Electrical Inspection department in Nova Scotia were were no longer allowed to use them for supporting cable, the reason given was because they don't have a listed load rating so they can't be approved to support anything, at the time we did check and could find no listed load rating for the couple types we would use. I did lately notice that the tywraps that are made or stainless steel rather the nylon do have a listed load rating but these are expensive. > > Hopefully the above info is of use to you, a 3" plastic tube coming off or partially off between your front and read tire at speed is definitely not what I would consider a good thing. The tywraps I use are made by Thomas and Betts and do have the stainless steel tab and should be available at most electrical suppliers but personally I would look at using a proper metal pipe strap if you already had an aluminum skid plate installed. Anyway all the above is personal experience and i'm sure others will have different opinions. ..have a great day.....Greg& nbsp; > > --- On Sun, 6/8/08, rick colomtnbiker@ ... wrote: > > From: rick colomtnbiker@ ... > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Tool tube > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com > Received: Sunday, June 8, 2008, 2:04 AM > > > > > > > Now this is fun. 10 years and 140,000 miles. Wow. Now I maintain 2 > klr's, my wife's and mine. They are 3 years old and together have > 45,000 miles on them and have been to Canada, Alaska and most of > Mexico and Central America. Whoopie doo for both of us. Now, I agree > with EL. What a concept to use Gladiator Gear, aka, crash bars, and > the tool tubes don't take the beating, especially when, as EL says, > they are inside the crash bars. Wow, that EL guy is smart. Also, I > personally, like the 3" size. > Now what I have found is the stainless steel straps seems to die on > their own whims. Last weekend on the way to Moab from Colorado, I had > 3 stainless straps break for no apparent reason, I hadn't even > crashed. But what I had read somewhere on one of these sites, is to > use 18" zip ties. At the Canyonlands Classic last weekend, a small > group rode up to Island in the Sky and I was mentioning the bands > breaking. Tim from Sacramento was using the zipties and gave me one. I > have since gone to Lowe's to pick up a couple of packs of zipties and > I am giving them a shot. Plus Tim also uses a velco strap wrapped > around the center of his tube. > One thing I did find that cracked both of our tubes is the extra > little nub of threads on the U bolt on the front of the skid plate. I > have cut those off recently and made new tubes. So I will see how that > does. I may take a small piece of rubber( old piece of bicycle tube, > etc) and cover the two nuts that protrude from the U bolt for a bit > more protection for the tube. > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, "E.L. Green" eric@ wrote: > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, Tengai Mark Van Horn > > wrote: > > > At 9:15 PM -0400 6/6/08, Jim Tegler wrote: > > > >Howdy,I' m surprised that no one has cautioned against attaching your > > > >tool tube to the skid plate. I did and one little fall caused it to > > > >rip off the skid plate from its mounting bolts! I learned from > > > >that.Jim A5 > > > > > > I have warned, and I've seen a few tool tubes crack open like an egg. > > > > I'm utterly baffled. I've dropped my KLR probably a dozen times since > > I attached my tool tube to my skid plate, and all that's happened is > > that the ends of my crash bars have gotten a bit beat up. Wait... > > crash bars? Somebody expects their *tool tube* to serve as a crash > > bar? DOH! (Slaps head with dead herring). > > > > > would rather send bitchy responses when I tell it like it is. > > > > I actually looked at mounting my tool tube higher, roughly parallel > > with the engine guard/crash guard. However, close examination of > > clearances showed that at full compression, my 3" ABS tool tube > > *would* contact the tire if I mounted it there. So I mounted it lower, > > basically in the gap between the crash bars and the skid plate. The > > tire clears it at full compression at that location, and because I cut > > it to be shorter than the crash bars, thus far I've had no problems > > when I've managed to drop the bike (or once when a bear knocked over > > the bike and it spent a couple days on its side, no big deal, just > > scuffed the paint a little heh!). > > > > -E > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _ > Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail. Click on Options in Mail and switch to New Mail today or register for free at http://mail. yahoo.ca > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > __________________________________________________________________ Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go to Yahoo! Answers and share what you know at http://ca.answers.yahoo.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[ilv2wheels]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jim Tegler wrote:

> > > Howdy,I'm surprised that no one has cautioned against attaching your

tool tube to the skid plate. I did and one little fall caused it to rip off the skid plate from its mounting bolts! I learned from that.Jim A5

>

After cracking a 4" then a 3" above and inside the highway pegs, I mounted a welding rod holder from the left passenger footpeg mount to the rear of the subframe with SS T-clamps kind of like a left muffler. No worries so far, time will tell. Tony G. 2002 KLR650 Fort Worth, TX