more on the battery chart

DSN_KLR650
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Fred Hink
Posts: 2434
Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2000 10:08 am

more on the battery chart

Post by Fred Hink » Sun Jan 13, 2013 2:34 pm

I have stocked LED Battery Monitors for many years. I used to sell the single LED that changed colors depending on the state of your battery but those were hard for some to figure out and had no way of dimming with the dark. The LED Battery Monitor that I stock now is made by Kuryakyn http://www.kuryakyn.com/products/872/led-battery-gauge and has the dimming feature along with an array of LEDs that you can read like an analog meter. Very simple yet very effective. They come in basic black or for those that like shiney things, in Chrome. They are listed under the KLR/Electric section of my parts pages. I can get other battery monitors as well but the Kuryakyn seems to work the best for the money. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com From: Lee Dodge Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2013 11:49 AM To: KLR650 List Subject: [DSN_KLR650] More on the battery chart Some comments on the comments: Mark Ward proposes the following: Instead of "voltage to %charge" should be possibly be "fully charged voltage to % of rated capacity" . That doesn't make sense to me. Here's how to interpret the chart, If you have a "fully charges lead acid battery the voltage across the terminals under a static, no-load, not charging situation the voltage will be 12.63. If the reading is 12.18vdc the battery has only a 50% charge meaning, in practical terms, there is only 50% of the energy available for work that a fully charged battery would provide. IF the battery is being charged, by any means, the voltage now seen between the terminals will indicate one of the following: 1. If the charging system is delivering enough voltage to charge a 12 v battery i.e 13.8 at a minimum. or . . 2. the rate at which the charging is progressing. As an example, at the 13.8 charging voltage the time required to fully charge a battery might be 10 hours However if the charging voltage is 14.5 the same battery may fully charge in 4 hours. Please remember,this is an example, your mileage may vary. RE:Ron Harasch's note on the LED voltage indicator- I have them on 4 bikes and I'd recommend them-especially on bikes with less-than-generous charging systems, like the KLR or the DRZ 400's XR 400S and so on. (If I was Fred I'd stock them and recommend my customers "Get one and learn how to read it") Lee Hopefully we're near the end of this thread [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

pmdoreklrrider
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2013 12:04 pm

spare parts from your favorite noob

Post by pmdoreklrrider » Mon Jan 14, 2013 12:04 pm

Hi guys, Well I got adventurous in the cold, since I couldn't ride. Took my wheels off to have them replaced (they put them on for free if you bring in the wheels at this tire place in St. Louis). I got Heidenau K76's by the way, front and back (sadly I ride mostly road and easy gravel so far). I cleaned the chain and the sprockets and inspected the bearings and seals while I was doing that. I think all that went pretty well, and hopefully my wheels won't fall off on my next ride. I have a couple pictures and questions. I will try to post the pictures, so the questions will make sense. First, when reattaching the speedometer cable, I noticed that the cable had slipped almost all the way out of the casing. When I reattached it, at first it seemed too long, I couldn't get the female end to fit on the threaded end, even when I had the cable properly seated at the bottom. I jiggled a little and got a bit rough with it , and then finally all was good. I am hoping this means that the top end seated proplerly too. What are the chances that my speedometer won't work, because that cable slid down, and probably lost its connection up by the speedometer? The second question relates to the fact that I took all my plastics off, fenders and seat and side panels etc, disconnected all the rear electrical stuff (I'll leave out why to keep the story shorter). Then I put it all back on. Well in the picture I have several parts left over after putting everything back. My question is, please examine the picture, and let me know if these parts are necessary, and or if you know where they might go. Everything seems to have fit back together properly. Thanks Peter in St. Louis. 2008 KLR

mark ward
Posts: 1027
Joined: Fri Jan 15, 2010 11:18 am

spare parts from your favorite noob

Post by mark ward » Mon Jan 14, 2013 12:13 pm

Speedo, 1in1000 OR 9999/1000 Untill you try you will not know. Prop it up, Front tire OFF the ground, and spin SLOW & SOFTLY!!!! by hand, IF!! NO!! strange or loud clicking, JAMMING ETC ETC. then a little faster. If still "OK", Get someone (or a mirror) and spin FAST see if the dial moves, AND STILL NO loud noises, (clicking jamming etc.) IF!! that all works OK then I would try on the street etc..
--- On Mon, 1/14/13, pmdoreklrrider wrote: From: pmdoreklrrider Subject: [DSN_KLR650] spare parts from your favorite Noob To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, January 14, 2013, 6:04 PM Hi guys, Well I got adventurous in the cold, since I couldn't ride. Took my wheels off to have them replaced (they put them on for free if you bring in the wheels at this tire place in St. Louis). I got Heidenau K76's by the way, front and back (sadly I ride mostly road and easy gravel so far). I cleaned the chain and the sprockets and inspected the bearings and seals while I was doing that. I think all that went pretty well, and hopefully my wheels won't fall off on my next ride. I have a couple pictures and questions. I will try to post the pictures, so the questions will make sense. First, when reattaching the speedometer cable, I noticed that the cable had slipped almost all the way out of the casing. When I reattached it, at first it seemed too long, I couldn't get the female end to fit on the threaded end, even when I had the cable properly seated at the bottom. I jiggled a little and got a bit rough with it , and then finally all was good. I am hoping this means that the top end seated proplerly too. What are the chances that my speedometer won't work, because that cable slid down, and probably lost its connection up by the speedometer? The second question relates to the fact that I took all my plastics off, fenders and seat and side panels etc, disconnected all the rear electrical stuff (I'll leave out why to keep the story shorter). Then I put it all back on. Well in the picture I have several parts left over after putting everything back. My question is, please examine the picture, and let me know if these parts are necessary, and or if you know where they might go. Everything seems to have fit back together properly. Thanks Peter in St. Louis. 2008 KLR [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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