k&n filters nklr

[John Huber]

Hey group, I need some help with a blown headlight fuse problem. I have consulted a few different people about why a bike would blow fuses. They say it is either a voltage regulator, or a short somewhere. Is there any particular places to start looking for a short, or is there any way to test the regulator, without taking it to a shop? Any help will be greatly appreciated. I do know that the fuse gets extremely hot after I replace it and let the bike run for a minute or so. Almost like it is getting too much juice. Just wondering. I don't want to pay $150 for a new regulator. But if I have to, I guess I will, but do not want to. John A7 _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

[RM]

On Mon, 9 Jul 2001, John Huber wrote:

>either a voltage regulator, or a short somewhere. Is there any >particular places to start looking for a short, or is there any way to >test the regulator, without taking it to a shop?

Put a voltmeter across the battery and then start the bike and rev it. If the voltage does not exceed 14.8 volts or so then your problem is somewhere other than the regulator. An internal short in the regulator would blow the main fuse, not the headlamp fuse. Also, check to make sure that both headlamp filaments aren't somehow getting activated at the same time. When switching from low to high-beam, there should be a distinct change in your headlight pattern. The high-beam should "replace" the low-beam's illumination pattern, not add to it. Did that make sense? RM

[kend650]

Has anyone had problems with their klr650 voltage regulator? I just replaced my battery and starter solenoid, and it still only has enough juice to turn the neutral idiot lite green. Does anyone know how to test the voltage regulator? Thanks for any help, or ideas!! Ken Scottsdale, AZ

[Arden Kysely]

When I had my A1, the regulator/rectifier toasted itself, partially melting the connector and threatening to do a China syndrome to the rear inner fender. It was pretty obvious that it needed replacement, so I didn't bother with testing it. I think the manual does have the tests outlined, though. Not sure what kind of equipment you need. Did your new battery get a full, deep charge before you put it in the bike? If not, and if you're just taking short rides, it may never get a complete charge. Did you check the voltage on the battery? Did you check for other things that might be draining it while it sits in the bike (e.g. parking light)? __Arden

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "kend650" wrote: > Has anyone had problems with their klr650 voltage regulator? I just > replaced my battery and starter solenoid, and it still only has enough > juice to turn the neutral idiot lite green. Does anyone know how to > test the voltage regulator? > > Thanks for any help, or ideas!! > > Ken > Scottsdale, AZ

[Paul]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "kend650" wrote:

> Has anyone had problems with their klr650 voltage regulator? I

just

> replaced my battery and starter solenoid, and it still only has

enough

> juice to turn the neutral idiot lite green. Does anyone know how

to

> test the voltage regulator? > > Thanks for any help, or ideas!! > > Ken > Scottsdale, AZ

sounds like a prob i had with a friends bike, his neutral came on but couldnt fire the bike (even with a new battery) turned out was a bad ground on the wiring to the fuses. check all the main contacts from the battery to the solinoid (clean replace etc) use a piece of wire with a couple of bullet or spade connectors to temp jump the fuses and see what your powers like. if your battery is showing full charge you can bypass the regulator just for the purpose of checking lights and power flow (dont run or try to start the engine though) if you get good power past the regulator then you prob have a bad one. a fully charged battery should allow you the lights horn etc without the engine running, the regulater just convers the power flow to the voltage needed to charge and run the bike while the engine is running. paul A16

[Barry Spice]

Does anyone have a voltage regulator that they wouldn't mind parting out? Barry Spice Catonsville, Md

[Glenn]

Hi All, Looking at the circuit for the voltage regulator on my bike, there are 6 leads. There are 3 from the alternator-Yellow. One for the battery positive-White One for the battery negative-Black/Yellow and finally a Brown/White wire that has an ignition switched battery positive supplied from a Brown wire via the ignition ON position. My question is :- What is the purpose of the Brown/White wire as a switched positive to the regulator via the ignition? Has anyone got an internal wiring diagram or schematic of the older 6 wire regulator. Even though mine is the Australian "C" model it doesn't vary that much from other models. Regards Glenn

[Dean Wegner]

My understanding of the 6th wire which is a switched hot, is that it is a voltage sense wire which tells the regulator the voltage at the battery without losses due to the current load of all the other running components. Allows the regulator to correct for the other loads and provide the correct charging voltage to the battery. Summary schematics of regulator rectifiers can be found. I've been chasing the question of the 6th wire for a '91 VX800 with charging problems. I would expect all of the 6 wire regulators to work the same. When you find a typical schematic for one, that will probably be the best you can find and it will be good enough to tell you what they do. Dean Wegner '03 KLR650 and a bunch of others.

On 9/26/12, Glenn wrote: > Hi All, > Looking at the circuit for the voltage regulator on my bike, there are 6 > leads. > There are 3 from the alternator-Yellow. > One for the battery positive-White > One for the battery negative-Black/Yellow > and finally a Brown/White wire that has an ignition switched battery > positive supplied from a Brown wire via the ignition ON position. > My question is :- > What is the purpose of the Brown/White wire as a switched positive to the > regulator via the ignition? > > Has anyone got an internal wiring diagram or schematic of the older 6 wire > regulator. > > Even though mine is the Australian "C" model it doesn't vary that much from > other models. > > Regards Glenn > >

[Glenn Sturley]

Hello All, Thanks for the reply Dean. I thought that was what the extra lead was and I have since located an internal schematic of the regulator. The Br/W lead is the Monitor or sensor input to the control circuit as you described. All solved. Cheers Glenn [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[tlz4u@aol.com]

Hi to all, If your KLR is consistantly over charging your battery, I have come up with a modification that has reduced this tendancy, and applied it to both of my motorcycles. First, much of the overcharging of the battery is due to the fact that the battery sense circuit (brown and white wire) extends from the battery source to the ignition switch, and back to the voltage regulater. This circuit is made of tiny gauge wire, and has several contact points in it (the ignition switch is one), and is quite long. This results in a voltage drop as seen by the regulator. My bike tested out at slightly over 1/2 volt drop. This causes the regulater to sense that the battery is 1/2 volt lower than it actually is, and it happily charges away as it was designed too, trying to make up the difference. My solution is to install a relay. The original sense line is used to activate the coil on the relay, turning it on when the ignition is "on". A seperate, (large gauge wire) is run from the battery positive terminal to the common terminal of the relay. The normally open terminal of the relay is now connected to the original "sense" (brown and white wire) line going into the regulater. This allows the regulater to sense the real battery voltage, without the previously mentioned voltage drop. The relay acts as a switch, preventing the regulater from draining the battery when the bike is not in use. I made this modification (several years ago) to my '83 'wing which see's many miles at higher speeds, and it has dramatically decreased the water loss on trips,and has increased the life of it's battery! I just recently made this modification to my '02 KLR, and expect the same results. Bob Brewer 2002 KLR 1983 GL1100 etc., etc. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]