coolant leak part ii

[David Nichols]

According to the official KLR650 FAQ, 3M Scotch-Weld Plastic Adhesive DP8005 is the adhesive to use: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html#body I have no direct experience, but 3M's website verifies this (URL has been shortened): http://goo.gl/QpIDq Good luck and please share your experience with the group. -David ________________________________ From: Michael To: David Nichols Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2011 2:40 AM Subject: Re: HID for KLRs What is a good way to "glue" them, I have a crack and want to repaint. Michael

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, David Nichols wrote: > > Polypropylene, aka tupperware. > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[James W. Flower]

I haven't forgotten my promise to report on the Tap Plastics product. My godlike expertise with duct tape has postponed that project.

> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h-9yhanz5DE

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[Eddie]

A few weeks back, I reported my 09' dropping a small amount of coolant out what I thought was the weep hole on the underside of the pump housing. A drop would form and get blown rearward by the wind while under way, scattering it to form tiny, tell-tale white residue spots along the frame and engine. I decided to just ride it some more until I noticed a greater quantity of liquid coming out. That would be yesterday. I rode 40 miles in the early morning darkness to work as a volunteer course worker for a combined 50k/50 mi./marathon running event. After I got home yesterday afternoon, I observed a fairly good splatter of dried coolant on the right side of the engine. Uh,oh. Funny thing: This time it was much higher on the engine. A quick look determined it was the overflow line leaking where it attaches to the reserve tank. That got me to wondering if my mystery leak wasn't some sort of droppings going down hill until they collected on the pump? Any how, I nipped the last 1/4 in. off the return hose and reattached it. I'd syphoned out the tank first and was careful to note the refill level and clean off the bottom in case my repair didn't work. A 90 mile ride this afternoon produced no leaks/drips/drops/splatters whatsoever. Let's hope that was the real leak. =) eddie [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[David Nichols]

Does Tap Plastics recommend using this product to repair Polypropylene also? I'm asking because they are advertising this as a repair for Polyethylene, which isn't the same as Polypropylene. ________________________________ From: James W. Flower To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 11:27 AM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Repairing KLR Polypropylene bodywork I haven't forgotten my promise to report on the Tap Plastics product. My godlike expertise with duct tape has postponed that project.

> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h-9yhanz5DE

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[Mike Frey]

Yes. TAP says that their stuff works on both materials. Typically, most chemical processes that apply to one material will apply to the other. PP and PE are definitely different plastics, but are related. Mike

On 10/17/2011 8:24 AM, David Nichols wrote: > > Does Tap Plastics recommend using this product to repair Polypropylene > also? I'm asking because they are advertising this as a repair > for Polyethylene, which isn't the same as Polypropylene. > > ________________________________ > From: James W. Flower > > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 11:27 AM > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Repairing KLR Polypropylene bodywork > > I haven't forgotten my promise to report on the Tap Plastics > product. My godlike expertise with duct tape has postponed that project. > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h-9yhanz5DE > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > >

[James W. Flower]

I haven't used any of this stuff, yet. But here's everything I've gleaned about the three products that various listers and the FAQs suggest (an answer to David's question is number 2): 1. "Plastics are made of polypropylene, not polyethylene. That said, the 2 materials are chemically similar enough that an adhesive that works on one will typically work on the other. Polypropylene (PP) is generally easier to repair than Polyethylene (PE) - but neither is "easy" in the conventional sense." 2. "Checked the TAP Plastics web site to see if the Poly-Weld adhesive works on both materials. They say that it does, so the video shown would be correct. TAP Plastics also stresses the fact that the surfaces to be joined MUST be flame treated and they show you how to do it - which is also correct. The flame treatment would be the same for both PP and PE." Poly-Weld is probably the most difficult to use of the alternatives. I'm not torch-experienced, so I may try one of these first: --"West System G-Flex. It's designed for polyethylene. Although I have no experience with it, the boaters seem to like it, and West is an icon in the composites world. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2a5RlcP-4JE>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2a5R\lcP-4JE>" --3M Scotchweld Plastic Adhesive DP8005 (I think this is the one recommended in the FAQ). -JWF

On Oct 17, 2011, at 5:24 AM, David Nichols wrote: > Does Tap Plastics recommend using this product to repair Polypropylene also? I'm asking because they are advertising this as a repair for Polyethylene, which isn't the same as Polypropylene. > > > ________________________________ > From: James W. Flower > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 11:27 AM > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Repairing KLR Polypropylene bodywork > > > > I haven't forgotten my promise to report on the Tap Plastics product. My godlike expertise with duct tape has postponed that project. > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h-9yhanz5DE > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]