vista cruise installation question

[exidyboy]

I've uploaded some hi-res photos into an a new album entitled entitled "Mike's Tengai" that I had a friend take for me. You can view them at Large or Original Size and get some quite exquisite detail. You will see the galling on the exhaust camshaft that I discovered when removing the camshafts to check the size of the shims, and the correspond scoring on the aluminium camshaft caps. By the way two valves were fine and two were only just out of spec by the thickness of my thinnest feeling gauge. A workshop in the city tells me I need to have the camshaft linished to remove the aluminium it has picked up from the cap and the head and caps then need to be line bored. I was initially perplexed that they could remove material from both the camshaft and cap without creating a bigger gap, but apparently they remove material from the base of the cap first, what the Internet calls "decking" the caps. I asked if it would make sense to check the cylinder and piston while the head is off as the bike has done around 100,000K's. They suggested it would make sense and that I would probably disturb the base gasket anyway in the process of removing the head and this would would create an oil leak - and they also added wryly that I had "better be pretty damn sure the bottom is end is rock solid". I'm reluctant to spend 1000's of dollars on parts and labour and over-capitalise an old bike that would never repay the investment upon resale. The major advantage of the Tengai is the enormous range from the 23 Litre tank - you can ride for 3 hours longer than the endurance of your backside. Since I live in inner Melbourne with nowhere to work under cover on the bike, or park it under cover, I want to get the engine sealed up again a.s.a.p. and if there is a bit of piston slap I might just have to live with that while I focus on the brakes and rear shock. The only tricky part I anticipate is how to torque up the cap nuts that are inverted under the cylinder head as I can't see how you could get a torque wrench on there. Any suggestions ? Mike

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "exidyboy" wrote:

> > I've uploaded some hi-res photos into an a new album entitled entitled "Mike's Tengai" that I had a friend take for me. You can view them at Large or Original Size and get some quite exquisite detail.

Mike, About 8,000 of us feel your pain. Repairs like this is like spending money on a beloved pet...sometimes it is worth while, other times, no so much.... I see you have three good alternatives; all somewhat expensive. You should first ask yourself, what is the end purpose? Is this fix/play for one season or will this be for 5+ years? Recently Phillip B. was an US ARMY exchange instructor in the Aussie War College. He bought a used KLR650 that he had to pay a premium price for (as compared to US) and there were no 'buyers' when he got ready to leave. Market prices are a fickle thing; I would never count on getting your money back on an expensive repair. A second question you ask your self, knowing the bike is broke or is going to be REALLY broke if you don't do something-- Would I buy this bike for $1000 (or what ever =repair cost) if it was available to me today? Your options: 1. Do 'all' as you have suggested. Pencil out the exact cost and add 25% for unknowns. (hopefully 25% will be enough.) 2. Try to locate another head to cannibalize. 3. Locate another motor 4. Locate another bike and move the tank/plastics to it. 5. Part out the bike; keep the tank as that what seems to fascinate you the most. Remember an OEM US spec tank is 6ish US gallons (22.7 liters). The aftermarkets are 6.5 to 7 US Gallons. #2. Has possibilities. It would seem you could get a used head from the states for less than $400 total. import fees, etc. #4 and 5 seem to me to be the best solutions. If you follow ebay, you see lots of good bikes being chopped up for a lot less reasons than you are experiencing. http://motors.desc.shop.ebay.com/eBay-Motors-/6000/i.html?LH_TitleDesc=1&_nkw=klr&_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=1&_rdc=1 Torquing the caps can be done with a universal-flex. (Yes I know it is not a perfect, straight pull; close enough. revmaaatin.

[Fred Hink]

Actually it s the standard model Vista Cruise that is used on the 08+ KLRs. Vista Cruise Throttle Lock PIC 12-7130 Black 24.95 Will need to drill&tap small hole for lock INFO 08+ This model may have a some-what universal application but it is originally made for throttles that use a dual cable setup. There is also a model for single throttle cables and then there is the Universal model that is totally different. Fred www.arrowheadmotorsports.com From: Eckert, Christopher (Infrastructure Solutions Dept.) Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 5:59 AM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Vista Cruise Installation Question I used the universal one. The part number is in the write up. Grinding down the screw by stickign it in a drill or drill press is pretty easy. Just use the measurements in the write up. In addition to thousands of miles the vista has finished a Pine Barens 300 in 2009 and the Roaming Rally this year. It has never had an issue or even needed adjusting since it was put on. I think it has been one of the handiest and cheapest Mods I have done so far Christopher Eckert A.k.a. Skypilot ************************************************************ This communication, including attachments, is for the exclusive use of addressee and may contain proprietary, confidential and/or privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, copying, disclosure, dissemination or distribution is strictly prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail, delete this communication and destroy all copies. ************************************************************ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]