hard starting/carb prob?

DSN_KLR650
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navyboy652002
Posts: 22
Joined: Sun Mar 12, 2006 8:36 pm

hard starting/carb prob?

Post by navyboy652002 » Thu Apr 07, 2011 4:50 pm

Hey, Just wanted to post a follow up. I did fix it and it runs great now. Just wanted to post what happened. After I let it set for about a week I tried to run Seafoam in it but it would only start and idle, as soon as I tired to add throttle it would die or almost? Due to weather an such I wasn't able to work on it till a few days ago. I pulled the carb again and clean it out again, used a wire carb tool to clean all the jets and orifaces. Sprayed things off with carb and dired with air. I did notice some play in the needle and re-looked up the dynojet instruction and found that I was missing the washers that go on top of the needle clip. After talking to Dynojet they said any 6mm washer would work(.5mm thick), went to the hardware store and m6 was way to big but m3's fit perfect and were about 6mm accross and about the .5mm. I used stainless ones and 2 washer took out the slack. Put the carb back on and fired right up, had to do some idle and air adjustments but runs great and rides great again. Thanks for all the help and I hope this helps others. I am sure the seafoam helped too as it has made my chain saw run way better now too. Happy & safe riding to all!
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "navyboy652002" wrote: > > Ok Update. I mess with it for about an hour after work. > First I took off the air filter and cover as suggested. > Then went to start it and had to use the choke/enricher at full to get it to start (unlike yesterday?). Then had to warm it up with the choke/enricher on for a min, to get it to idle on it's own. > > Then checked for air leaks. Used both carb cleaner and starter spray. I checked the petcock for air leaks as well and did so with sprays and by disconnecting the vac and pluging the hose. > Didn't find any air leaks! > > Also check the carb breather for blockage(as suggested) but didn't see any(sprayed carb cleaner in and appeared to go thru) I have that "T" mod, if that make any difference? > > With the air filter on or off the bike still surges and rev's above 2500 rpm's and now I am getting a pop or 2(backfire) on decel after a rev above 2000-2500 rpm's??? Great! I wonder what that means? (air cutoff?) > > So now at least the bike starts but it still has the surging and now had backfiring? > > My next plan is to take in some more advice and probably look and the valves to see if they have indeed gone out of spec.? But looks like if you all agree that the air cut off valve need another look, I'll pull the carb again. > > Thanks, Seth > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "P&D" wrote: > > > > I've had similar problems, tore the carb and everything else I could think of off and still had some sort of issue. I was about ready to take it to someone smarter than me and before I loaded the bike I checked the breather hose off the top of the carb and it was plugged. (After everything it was something stinkin' simple.) > > > > Paul > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: navyboy652002 > > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2011 7:28 PM > > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Hard Starting/Carb Prob? > > > > > > > > Hey thanks again for the advice guys! > > So after messing with the carb off the bike I am fairly certin that the starter jet, pilot jet and main air jet had some if not complete blockage! I beleive I cleaned them all out as I dit everything else. Prior to reassemble everything was clean and appeared to allow air and carb cleaner thru! > > > > After I got the carb back on it took a little time to get it to start as I had to get fuel back in the carb but it was promising as it started with out the choke/enricher just like it use to back when I first did the dynojet kit. > > Now for the bad. I think it is still running lean? I still have the surging around 2500 rpm's? Still shoots up to 3500 or so and fluctuates some? I didn't get to troubleshoot much as it was getting cold & dark. I did mess with the air adjust, but still surged? In is richer? > > Also messing with the choke/enricher while the bike was running, I was only able to find a sweet spot where it would add 150-200 rpm's, it too much it would die and before the sweet spot no change? > > > > Also maybe the lean is a fuel supply issue??? Could my petcock not be flowing enough? I didn't mess with the float level but did clean it out and seemed fine? > > > > I'll check for air leaks tommorrow > > > > Thanks, Seth > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hink" wrote: > > > > > > The only part in the carb that absolutely has to be clean is the orifice of the pilot jet. The only way you can be sure that it is clean is to remove this jet and look through it and if you can t see through the orifice then it is plugged. It is such a small opening that a piece of lint could be stuck there and restricting the flow of fuel or a piece of dirt or rust could be stopping the fuel flow completely. I believe most air screw settings are less than one turn from closed. I have seen them at around 3/4 of a turn and have heard of some that were completely closed from the factory. I believe the Dynojet recommendations are usually pretty rich for most situations. That is a safe setting since adjusting your carb too lean can cause all sorts of bad things to happen. I d suspect that your air screw should be set around 1 1/2 to 2 turns out and still have good performance. Every bike and every situation is different so YMMV. > > > > > > Fred > > > http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > > > > > > > > > > > > From: navyboy652002 > > > Sent: Monday, January 31, 2011 7:46 PM > > > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Hard Starting/Carb Prob? > > > > > > > > > Hey all thanks for you replies and suggestions, to keep from multiple replys I'll reply to you each by name! > > > > > > Fred, > > > I justed pulled the carb out to see if there was anything pluged as you suggested. I sprayed into every thing and the carb was already very clean! I am not sure but the pilot jet may hav been pluged as I sprayed into it wile in the carb and didn't seem like it was going anywhere but abter I took it out I sprayed the pilot jet out and in to its hole and the carb cleaner went thru, Just need to test it with the jet back in. As for the plug I was running a Iridium DPR8EIX-9. As for the air setting I was running it at about 2.5-2.75 turns which I thought was right around stock? > > > > > > Jeff Saline, > > > I did the valves roughly about the same time I did the dynojet kit, so about 2-3K ago. Do you think it is worth another check so soon??? > > > > > > Mike Huber, > > > I have not really looked into spark, I know I am getting some. How would one check to see if I am getting enough? > > > > > > Bob, > > > Don't think I am getting a high speed miss? Last time I rode it (nov-oct) once I got it running it seem to run fine thru all normal rpm's. > > > > > > Thanks again all for your help and suggestions.My aim is to get the carb back togeather and on tommorrow after work and see if it is any better? > > > Seth > > > > > > > > > > --- In mailto:DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hink" wrote: > > > > > > > > Sounds like you may have a plugged or partially plugged pilot jet. The pilot jet and the air screw are the parts of your carburetor that adjust and feed fuel for starting and idling up to about 1/4 throttle position. The diaphragm is for raising the slide and has nothing really to do with metering fuel. The slide, needle and needle jet adjust fuel for the midrange. (1/4 throttle to 3/4 open) I would never add any additives to your fuel that isn t safe for the o-rings and seals in your carb. You may have created a lot of other problems by doing this. It sounds like you have a lean condition and the hard starting and high idle or surging would indicate this. The heat range of your spark plug is the operating temperature of the electrodes on the plug. If you run a plug that is too cold, it could build up deposits on the electrodes and that would effect the performance of your engine. If the plug is too hot, it will burn the electrodes and could also burn your piston. I d recommend a new NGK DPR8EA-9 or the Iridium DPR8EIX-9. I d start by checking your pilot jet and the air screw setting. > > > > > > > > Fred > > > > http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > >

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