nklr: krylon fusion paint

[cactus_reese]

Here is the resolution to my light problem. It was the 10A fuse after all. The fuse was making an intermittent connection internally. It finally failed hard so it was easy to diagnose. The only things on the 10A fuse are the driving lights so, for everyone's benefit, when those go and nothing else, check that fuse. -Bryan

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "cactus_reese" wrote: > > I'm in Tucson. I was a regular a few years ago...then I became irregular...but kept riding. 36K mile on my A12...at least 50% off-road. > > I'll try the good suggestion you guys provided. > -BR > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, mark ward wrote: > > > > Hey Reese I could not find you on Our Map, Where are you?? > > Mark (W. Mi.) > > >

[mark ward]

A service tech's greatest NIGHTMARE, And TRY, JUST TRY, to explain it to a customer that you are charging $90. an hour, Why it took 3 hr's to do a NORMALY 20minute job. Or that AFTER an hr.< sorry I can't find anything "wrong", I tall works fine, Heres the bill for a service call,....Call me in 1day or six months when it realy breaks down. NO EASY WAY TO DEAL WITH.

--- On Sun, 3/13/11, cactus_reese wrote: From: cactus_reese Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Light Problem - Follow up To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, March 13, 2011, 4:49 AM Here is the resolution to my light problem. It was the 10A fuse after all. The fuse was making an intermittent connection internally. It finally failed hard so it was easy to diagnose. The only things on the 10A fuse are the driving lights so, for everyone's benefit, when those go and nothing else, check that fuse. -Bryan --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "cactus_reese" wrote: > > I'm in Tucson. I was a regular a few years ago...then I became irregular...but kept riding. 36K mile on my A12...at least 50% off-road. > > I'll try the good suggestion you guys provided. > -BR > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, mark ward wrote: > > > > Hey Reese I could not find you on Our Map, Where are you?? > > Mark (W. Mi.) > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Greg May]

Good morning Bryan Glad you found your problem and it turned out to be a simple issue. A couple things that might save you future problems, most people seem to change the 10A fuse for a 15A, the 10A apparently fails if the switch between hi and low hangs up so both are powered at the same time. The second thing I would look at if you still have the stock glass fuses. Because of the type of problem you had I would check the clips the fuse fits in to ensure the fit is tight. If the fuse holder doesn't make good contact with the fuse, especially on the supply side of the fuse you can get enough heat to cause the solder that holds the fuse element to fail leaving you with a fuse that will actually appear good, then bad maybe several times till it actually fails, usually at an inconvenient time of course......Have a good day...Greg ________________________________ From: cactus_reese To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sun, March 13, 2011 12:49:49 AM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Light Problem - Follow up Here is the resolution to my light problem. It was the 10A fuse after all. The fuse was making an intermittent connection internally. It finally failed hard so it was easy to diagnose. The only things on the 10A fuse are the driving lights so, for everyone's benefit, when those go and nothing else, check that fuse. -Bryan

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "cactus_reese" wrote: > > I'm in Tucson. I was a regular a few years ago...then I became irregular...but >kept riding. 36K mile on my A12...at least 50% off-road. > > I'll try the good suggestion you guys provided. > -BR > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, mark ward wrote: > > > > Hey Reese I could not find you on Our Map, Where are you?? > > Mark (W. Mi.) > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Greg May]

Something I should have mentioned about the type of fuse to fuse holder failure I mentioned in my reply is that you can generally find this type of problem even before it happens by checking for voltage drop across the suspect fuse. Since the fuse is just a short piece of wire it should have virtually zero voltage across it, if there is voltage dropped across the fuse it is beginning to change from a fuse to an electric heater, unless address it will just get worse To check this put your positive meter lead on the supply side fuse clip and your negative meter lead on the load side fuse lead, this will not just check the fuse but also the fuse to fuse clip connection....later.....Greg ________________________________ From: Greg May To: cactus_reese ; DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sun, March 13, 2011 10:54:13 AM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Light Problem - Follow up Good morning Bryan Glad you found your problem and it turned out to be a simple issue. A couple things that might save you future problems, most people seem to change the 10A fuse for a 15A, the 10A apparently fails if the switch between hi and low hangs up so both are powered at the same time. The second thing I would look at if you still have the stock glass fuses. Because of the type of problem you had I would check the clips the fuse fits in to ensure the fit is tight. If the fuse holder doesn't make good contact with the fuse, especially on the supply side of the fuse you can get enough heat to cause the solder that holds the fuse element to fail leaving you with a fuse that will actually appear good, then bad maybe several times till it actually fails, usually at an inconvenient time of course......Have a good day...Greg ________________________________ From: cactus_reese To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sun, March 13, 2011 12:49:49 AM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Light Problem - Follow up Here is the resolution to my light problem. It was the 10A fuse after all. The fuse was making an intermittent connection internally. It finally failed hard so it was easy to diagnose. The only things on the 10A fuse are the driving lights so, for everyone's benefit, when those go and nothing else, check that fuse. -Bryan

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "cactus_reese" wrote: > > I'm in Tucson. I was a regular a few years ago...then I became irregular...but >kept riding. 36K mile on my A12...at least 50% off-road. > > I'll try the good suggestion you guys provided. > -BR > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, mark ward wrote: > > > > Hey Reese I could not find you on Our Map, Where are you?? > > Mark (W. Mi.) > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Retread]

After it was suggested that my nozzle may be defective, I checked my can. There appears to be no nozzle in the push button. Does anyone have a can handy to check? Don

[cactus_reese]

That was exactly the problem, Greg.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Greg May wrote: > > Something I should have mentioned about the type of fuse to fuse holder failure > I mentioned in my reply is that you can generally find this type of problem even > before it happens by checking for voltage drop across the suspect fuse. > Since the fuse is just a short piece of wire it should have virtually zero > voltage across it, if there is voltage dropped across the fuse it is beginning > to change from a fuse to an electric heater, unless address it will just get > worse To check this put your positive meter lead on the supply side fuse clip > and your negative meter lead on the load side fuse lead, this will not just > check the fuse but also the fuse to fuse clip connection....later.....Greg > > > > > ________________________________ > From: Greg May > To: cactus_reese ; DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Sun, March 13, 2011 10:54:13 AM > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Light Problem - Follow up > > > Good morning Bryan > > Glad you found your problem and it turned out to be a simple issue. A couple > things that might save you future problems, most people seem to change the 10A > fuse for a 15A, the 10A apparently fails if the switch between hi and low hangs > up so both are powered at the same time. The second thing I would look at if you > > still have the stock glass fuses. Because of the type of problem you had I > would check the clips the fuse fits in to ensure the fit is tight. If the fuse > holder doesn't make good contact with the fuse, especially on the supply side of > > the fuse you can get enough heat to cause the solder that holds the fuse element > > to fail leaving you with a fuse that will actually appear good, then bad maybe > several times till it actually fails, usually at an inconvenient time of > course......Have a good day...Greg > > > > ________________________________ > From: cactus_reese > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Sun, March 13, 2011 12:49:49 AM > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Light Problem - Follow up > > > Here is the resolution to my light problem. It was the 10A fuse after all. The > fuse was making an intermittent connection internally. It finally failed hard so > > it was easy to diagnose. The only things on the 10A fuse are the driving lights > so, for everyone's benefit, when those go and nothing else, check that fuse. > -Bryan > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "cactus_reese" wrote: > > > > I'm in Tucson. I was a regular a few years ago...then I became irregular...but > > >kept riding. 36K mile on my A12...at least 50% off-road. > > > > I'll try the good suggestion you guys provided. > > -BR > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, mark ward wrote: > > > > > > Hey Reese I could not find you on Our Map, Where are you?? > > > Mark (W. Mi.) > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[mark ward]

TESTING? Are you sure you don't mean, FOR VOLTAGE DROP: Put Neg/black lead on Nev./ground and don't move it and then test BOTH SIDES, With the Pos. (red) lead. NOTE: Do not move the ground or you may change the quality of your connection and THINK you changed the Voltage. FOR CONTINUITY TEST: you test ACROSS the same line.

--- On Sat, 3/19/11, cactus_reese wrote: From: cactus_reese Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Light Problem - Follow up To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Saturday, March 19, 2011, 6:43 AM That was exactly the problem, Greg. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Greg May wrote: > > Something I should have mentioned about the type of fuse to fuse holder failure > I mentioned in my reply is that you can generally find this type of problem even > before it happens by checking for voltage drop across the suspect fuse. > Since the fuse is just a short piece of wire it should have virtually zero > voltage across it, if there is voltage dropped across the fuse it is beginning > to change from a fuse to an electric heater, unless address it will just get > worse To check this put your positive meter lead on the supply side fuse clip > and your negative meter lead on the load side fuse lead, this will not just > check the fuse but also the fuse to fuse clip connection....later.....Greg > > > > > ________________________________ > From: Greg May > To: cactus_reese ; DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Sun, March 13, 2011 10:54:13 AM > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Light Problem - Follow up > > > Good morning Bryan > > Glad you found your problem and it turned out to be a simple issue. A couple > things that might save you future problems, most people seem to change the 10A > fuse for a 15A, the 10A apparently fails if the switch between hi and low hangs > up so both are powered at the same time. The second thing I would look at if you > > still have the stock glass fuses. Because of the type of problem you had I > would check the clips the fuse fits in to ensure the fit is tight. If the fuse > holder doesn't make good contact with the fuse, especially on the supply side of > > the fuse you can get enough heat to cause the solder that holds the fuse element > > to fail leaving you with a fuse that will actually appear good, then bad maybe > several times till it actually fails, usually at an inconvenient time of > course......Have a good day...Greg > > > > ________________________________ > From: cactus_reese > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Sun, March 13, 2011 12:49:49 AM > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Light Problem - Follow up > > > Here is the resolution to my light problem. It was the 10A fuse after all. The > fuse was making an intermittent connection internally. It finally failed hard so > > it was easy to diagnose. The only things on the 10A fuse are the driving lights > so, for everyone's benefit, when those go and nothing else, check that fuse. > -Bryan > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "cactus_reese" wrote: > > > > I'm in Tucson. I was a regular a few years ago...then I became irregular...but > > >kept riding. 36K mile on my A12...at least 50% off-road. > > > > I'll try the good suggestion you guys provided. > > -BR > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, mark ward wrote: > > > > > > Hey Reese I could not find you on Our Map, Where are you?? > > > Mark (W. Mi.) > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]