fork separation anxiety

[sh8knj8kster]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jack Stringer wrote:

> > On 19/07/2010 16:38, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > I've always found that an impact wrench and a high-quality allen socket does the trick. > > > > -Jeff Khoury > > Jeff don't forget the 2 ounce lump hammer (Birmingham Screwdriver) > > I wonder if a little heat would help? > > This is the reason why its nice to go around the bike taking every > external nut and bolt off and applying a certain amount of copper slip > just to ward off the corrosion pixies. > > > Jack >

~~~Hey Jack!, Every fork I've ever taken apart that uses an Allen head fastener coming up from the bottom of the fork, like the others mentioned...empirically, the tool to use is an air or electric impact gun. What makes it hard to get that bolt out is, the fork spring tension on the the piece the bolt threads into (fork piston), the bolt'l just spin along with the fork piston it's threaded into with a hand tool...you need the fast spinning action of an impact gun to zip her off And going from memory as it's been a couple years since I last had a fork apart...it's best (most manuals spec) to use blue loctite on the bolt threads when you re-install this bolt something else too...the washer between the Allen fastener and the fork leg, is usually copper...it's a sealing washer so fork oil wont leak out the bottom of the fork....you can re-use this washer with confidence if you anneal the washer before re-using. Not sure what annealing is?...take a look at this pic and verbiage- http://www.flickr.com/photos/26137108@N04/3836198138/ Jake Reddick Fla. I tend to live in the past because most of my life is there. -- Herb Caen http://www.shakinjake.blogspot.com/