older guys on klr's,and seat height!

[transalp 1]

The rules of thumb we use around the shop about chains, wear limits and replacement go something like this. Looking at the rear sprocket from the left side of the bike, find three links closest to the 3 o'clock position on the sprocket. Holding links 1 & 3 down against the sprocket with two fingers of your left hand, try and lift link #2 off the sprocket with your right hand. Can you clearly see daylight under the #2 link? Yes? It's replacement time. As for to go as a set or replace just the chain: Unless one is replacing a sprocket early on to alter gearing, it's been practice to replace the chain & sprockets all at the same time. It's like putting dirty feet in clean socks or clean socks on dirty feet. It won't be long before they both stink. eddie

[sulteck]

I want be able to go a little slower on the trails and get the revs down on the highways. I need a new chain and sprockets and was thinking about getting 2 fronts (14t and 16t) and 45t for the back. I figure most of the time running the 14t and changing it over to the 16t when I go on long highway trips. Any comments on my thinking???? Has anyone shopped around for these parts lately? I'm looking at renthal r3 oring chain. I'm really confused at the steel or aluminum sprockets too,,, comments are welcome on this too. thanks to all who respond Randy Sault Ste Marie, Ontario

[Fred Hink]

Those sprocket combinations should work fine for what you want to do.  One problem is that the top quality sprockets (Sunstar) doesn t make the 16T or the 45T for late model KLRs.  So you will have to go with a mid grade sprocket like a JT.  You definitely don't want an aluminum rear sprocket.  These are for lighter weight and for racing.  Aluminum will last about 1/2 as long as steel sprockets.  Renthal stuff is good but over priced.  If you were going with top grade sprockets, I'd say you would want the DiD VM series chain.  But since you are not, then I'd look at a RK XSO or DiD V series chain.  These are good chains and are equal to the quality of your stock chain. Fred www.arrowheadmotorsports.com     [b]From:[/b] randy.sullivan@... [b]Sent:[/b] Friday, May 28, 2010 6:59 AM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] sprockets and chain   I want be able to go a little slower on the trails and get the revs down on the highways. I need a new chain and sprockets and was thinking about getting 2 fronts (14t and 16t) and 45t for the back. I figure most of the time running the 14t and changing it over to the 16t when I go on long highway trips. Any comments on my thinking???? Has anyone shopped around for these parts lately? I'm looking at renthal r3 oring chain. I'm really confused at the steel or aluminum sprockets too,,, comments are welcome on this too. thanks to all who respond Randy Sault Ste Marie, Ontario

[spike55_bmw]

Although, on paper, changing counter-sprockets to get the gearing to better fit your riding situation (trail / highway) sounds like a good idea, it isn't that automatic or care-free. Here in the Northeast (USA), a 300 mile day requires the rider to sting together multiple sections of dirt and hard road and keep it fast paced. Fellow riders wouldn't tolerate the loss of time for you to switch sprockets (wrenches and moving the rear axle). So, we gear down a little bit by adding a 44-45 tooth rear and stay with the OEM 15 tooth. It is a little better in the dirt and still passable on the highway (two-lane roads). It also avoids getting greasy from handling the chain. I guess if you never had to come out of the woods for a week, it would make more sense to really gear low. Ditto on the EK or RK X-ring chain. Don R100, A6F (x2)

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "sulteck" wrote: > > I want be able to go a little slower on the trails and get the revs down on the highways. I need a new chain and sprockets and was thinking about getting 2 fronts (14t and 16t) and 45t for the back. I figure most of the time running the 14t and changing it over to the 16t when I go on long highway trips. Any comments on my thinking???? > > Has anyone shopped around for these parts lately? I'm looking at renthal r3 oring chain. I'm really confused at the steel or aluminum sprockets too,,, comments are welcome on this too. > > thanks to all who respond > Randy > Sault Ste Marie, Ontario >

[Craig Kahler]

16/45 is not much higher than stock. I have a 13T and 16T front and left the rear stock. This set up gets me geared al little lower and a litttle higher than the sprockets you mentioned. Craig Kahler 

--- On [b]Fri, 5/28/10, sulteck [i][/i][/b] wrote:

From: sulteck Subject: [DSN_KLR650] sprockets and chain To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Friday, May 28, 2010, 8:59 AM   I want be able to go a little slower on the trails and get the revs down on the highways. I need a new chain and sprockets and was thinking about getting 2 fronts (14t and 16t) and 45t for the back. I figure most of the time running the 14t and changing it over to the 16t when I go on long highway trips. Any comments on my thinking???? Has anyone shopped around for these parts lately? I'm looking at renthal r3 oring chain. I'm really confused at the steel or aluminum sprockets too,,, comments are welcome on this too. thanks to all who respond Randy Sault Ste Marie, Ontario

[spike55_bmw]

I tried a 16T counter-sprocket with a 44T JT rear and the rpm 'sweet' spots (~4,300 and at ~5,300) on my '06 put me at odd speeds (and vibrations) for two-lane road travel around here (Pennsylvania). At ~4,300 rpm with my 15T/44T setup, I settle in around 49-55 mph, which is about all of the fun I can safely handle on our curvy, hilly, heavy foliage, Amish horse crap on the curve, stupid animal and stupid car driver filled rural areas. I can still pull 85 mph (GPS reading) on a big road if I have to. Off-road, the lower 1st gear allows me to more easily pick my way through the rocks on washed out mountain roads versus my buddies with their OEM 15T/43T. In some cases, I can even get it into 2nd to 'lighten' the front-end for a faster paced accent up and over more obstacles, all without messing around with a greasy chain, sprockets, and big enough wrenches to pull 70-75 ft-lbs on the rear axle and counter-sprocket nuts. But again, changing sprockets might make sense if you are deep in the woods for an extended period of time. Don R100, A6F (x2)

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Craig Kahler wrote: > > 16/45 is not much higher than stock. I have a 13T and 16T front and left the rear stock. This set up gets me geared al little lower and a litttle higher than the sprockets you mentioned. > Craig Kahler > --- On Fri, 5/28/10, sulteck wrote: > > > From: sulteck > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] sprockets and chain > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Date: Friday, May 28, 2010, 8:59 AM > > > > > > > I want be able to go a little slower on the trails and get the revs down on the highways. I need a new chain and sprockets and was thinking about getting 2 fronts (14t and 16t) and 45t for the back. I figure most of the time running the 14t and changing it over to the 16t when I go on long highway trips. Any comments on my thinking???? > > Has anyone shopped around for these parts lately? I'm looking at renthal r3 oring chain. I'm really confused at the steel or aluminum sprockets too,,, comments are welcome on this too. > > thanks to all who respond > Randy > Sault Ste Marie, Ontario >

[Jud]

I don't know that anybody seriously contemplates multiple gearing changes, or any changes for that matter, in the course of a single day. The time where it might make sense to me is where one travels a long distance over several days to reach a riding destination where most of the riding is off-road or in steep mountainous conditions. Ride for three or four days with road gearing, then switch to lower gearing for several days, returning to road gearing for the ride home. Even that kind of a regimen is a really bit ambitious except for the young and hyperactive. I don't mind getting busy with the tools and the ingenuity if circumstances dictate an emergency repair in order to keep going. But the rest of the time, I want to be marshaling my scanty reserves of energy semi-recumbent in my Kermit chair. My down time is meant for whisky, cigars, and lies around the campfire, not reconfiguring my ride.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "spike55_bmw" wrote: > > Although, on paper, changing counter-sprockets to get the gearing to better fit your riding situation (trail / highway) sounds like a good idea, it isn't that automatic or care-free. Here in the Northeast (USA), a 300 mile day requires the rider to sting together multiple sections of dirt and hard road and keep it fast paced. Fellow riders wouldn't tolerate the loss of time for you to switch sprockets (wrenches and moving the rear axle). So, we gear down a little bit by adding a 44-45 tooth rear and stay with the OEM 15 tooth. It is a little better in the dirt and still passable on the highway (two-lane roads). It also avoids getting greasy from handling the chain. > > I guess if you never had to come out of the woods for a week, it would make more sense to really gear low. > > Ditto on the EK or RK X-ring chain. > > Don R100, A6F (x2) > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "sulteck" wrote: > > > > I want be able to go a little slower on the trails and get the revs down on the highways. I need a new chain and sprockets and was thinking about getting 2 fronts (14t and 16t) and 45t for the back. I figure most of the time running the 14t and changing it over to the 16t when I go on long highway trips. Any comments on my thinking???? > > > > Has anyone shopped around for these parts lately? I'm looking at renthal r3 oring chain. I'm really confused at the steel or aluminum sprockets too,,, comments are welcome on this too. > > > > thanks to all who respond > > Randy > > Sault Ste Marie, Ontario > > >

[GMac999]

I'm one of the one's that changes sprockets. It works for me, but then my riding is like you describe. I ride 260 miles to a cabin, ride in single track trails for 1 - 3 days then ride the 260 miles back home. I'm running the 14 tooth CS and 47 tooth rear. If I could go to the 13 tooth CS, I would, but mine is a '95 and doesn't have the "Jake" nut on it. GregM -----Original Message----- From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jud Sent: Sunday, May 30, 2010 5:46 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: sprockets and chain I don't know that anybody seriously contemplates multiple gearing changes, or any changes for that matter, in the course of a single day. The time where it might make sense to me is where one travels a long distance over several days to reach a riding destination where most of the riding is off-road or in steep mountainous conditions. Ride for three or four days with road gearing, then switch to lower gearing for several days, returning to road gearing for the ride home. Even that kind of a regimen is a really bit ambitious except for the young and hyperactive. I don't mind getting busy with the tools and the ingenuity if circumstances dictate an emergency repair in order to keep going. But the rest of the time, I want to be marshaling my scanty reserves of energy semi-recumbent in my Kermit chair. My down time is meant for whisky, cigars, and lies around the campfire, not reconfiguring my ride.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "spike55_bmw" wrote: > > Although, on paper, changing counter-sprockets to get the gearing to better fit your riding situation (trail / highway) sounds like a good idea, it isn't that automatic or care-free. Here in the Northeast (USA), a 300 mile day requires the rider to string together multiple sections of dirt and hard road and keep it fast paced. Fellow riders wouldn't tolerate the loss of time for you to switch sprockets (wrenches and moving the rear axle). So, we gear down a little bit by adding a 44-45 tooth rear and stay with the OEM 15 tooth. It is a little better in the dirt and still passable on the highway (two-lane roads). It also avoids getting greasy from handling the chain. > > I guess if you never had to come out of the woods for a week, it would make more sense to really gear low. > > Ditto on the EK or RK X-ring chain. > > Don R100, A6F (x2) > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "sulteck" wrote: > > > > I want be able to go a little slower on the trails and get the revs down on the highways. I need a new chain and sprockets and was thinking about getting 2 fronts (14t and 16t) and 45t for the back. I figure most of the time running the 14t and changing it over to the 16t when I go on long highway trips. Any comments on my thinking???? > > > > Has anyone shopped around for these parts lately? I'm looking at renthal r3 oring chain. I'm really confused at the steel or aluminum sprockets too,,, comments are welcome on this too. > > > > thanks to all who respond > > Randy > > Sault Ste Marie, Ontario > > > ------------------------------------ List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650Yahoo! Groups Links

[RobertWichert]

I might lie around the campfire, but I am always truthful. The whiskey and cigars are right on target though. Tequila? Robert P. Wichert P.Eng +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ========================================================

On 5/30/2010 3:46 PM, Jud wrote:   I don't know that anybody seriously contemplates multiple gearing changes, or any changes for that matter, in the course of a single day. The time where it might make sense to me is where one travels a long distance over several days to reach a riding destination where most of the riding is off-road or in steep mountainous conditions. Ride for three or four days with road gearing, then switch to lower gearing for several days, returning to road gearing for the ride home. Even that kind of a regimen is a really bit ambitious except for the young and hyperactive. I don't mind getting busy with the tools and the ingenuity if circumstances dictate an emergency repair in order to keep going. But the rest of the time, I want to be marshaling my scanty reserves of energy semi-recumbent in my Kermit chair. My down time is meant for whisky, cigars, and lies around the campfire, not reconfiguring my ride. --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, "spike55_bmw" spike55_bmw@... wrote: > > Although, on paper, changing counter-sprockets to get the gearing to better fit your riding situation (trail / highway) sounds like a good idea, it isn't that automatic or care-free. Here in the Northeast (USA), a 300 mile day requires the rider to sting together multiple sections of dirt and hard road and keep it fast paced. Fellow riders wouldn't tolerate the loss of time for you to switch sprockets (wrenches and moving the rear axle). So, we gear down a little bit by adding a 44-45 tooth rear and stay with the OEM 15 tooth. It is a little better in the dirt and still passable on the highway (two-lane roads). It also avoids getting greasy from handling the chain. > > I guess if you never had to come out of the woods for a week, it would make more sense to really gear low. > > Ditto on the EK or RK X-ring chain. > > Don R100, A6F (x2) > > --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, "sulteck" wrote: > > > > I want be able to go a little slower on the trails and get the revs down on the highways. I need a new chain and sprockets and was thinking about getting 2 fronts (14t and 16t) and 45t for the back. I figure most of the time running the 14t and changing it over to the 16t when I go on long highway trips. Any comments on my thinking???? > > > > Has anyone shopped around for these parts lately? I'm looking at renthal r3 oring chain. I'm really confused at the steel or aluminum sprockets too,,, comments are welcome on this too. > > > > thanks to all who respond > > Randy > > Sault Ste Marie, Ontario > > >

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jim Douglas wrote:

> > I'm 56 this year and am wondering about the youngest and the oldest on > the list?

Jim, I would imagine the youngest licensed/permit KLR rider on the list is my son, SJ. He is 14, MSF qualified, and riding under a permit that converts to restricted license ~4 July. restricted = no travel before 6am or after 10pm. permit = must ride with a parent/guardian on a bike nearby. We have already had some 100+mile days. "Dad takes me along to pick up his bike...." smart kid. He is currently riding a KLR250, but at 5-11 and 155 lbs, he is fully able to ride a 650, but I am giving him a year of seasoning on the 250 before he goes sixfiddy. Dear old dad is 'looking up' at dear ol' son these days--especially if I am under the bike and he is picking it up; not often but handy to have around when it does. Earlier, I had thought to take him on the GDR; might be a tough bill to follow through and sour him completely on dual sporting, so, I have down scaled the ideas some, increasing the fun factor. We plan to ride the middle 1/3 of the Lewis and Clark #1804 and #1806 this summer or spend two weeks in the WY Big Horns during week 2-3 of Aug. NOTE: #1804 is the route numbers that L&C took going to the Coast and #1806 is the roads on the West side of the Missouri River following the L&C trip home. Cannonshot over at ADV wrote about his trip; St. Louis to the coast following the Lewis and Clark Trail signs posted along the way. As a warm up; an 8 day, 200+ miles a day dualsport ride, me on a 650, SJ on a KLR250. The 250 is the same bike I rode back from N.E. PA last summer; 1750 miles in 5 days, but I digress. We had planned to dual sport ride from central KY to central SD this past week but oh, no; that would have been to much fun. I instead elected to enter; the 'cut off your finger contest' (second place), the 'drive the electric drill/screwdriver bit through the opposite thumb' contest a week later, (1st place) and then with one hand in stitches and both in bandages (try zipping up your own pants...) I did something 'safe'--I drove the cage. Result: twist my back so that I could barely walk (injured driving the car?!?!?) putting the nail in the KY/SD trip. Instead of miles of smiles of klr time, I get steroids. sigh. Yeah, I feel old. but healing. revmaaatin. double nickle.