chain cleaning

[Chris Krok]

> From: > Subject: Re: RE: Tips for High Altitude Riding? > > Not to be argumentative, but why not switch out to a K&N filter at higher elevations to help lean out the mixture? This is a quick, easy change, and easily reversible.

You might gain something just by pulling the airbox cover, if you're not doing any deep water crossings... Krokko -- Dr. J. Christopher Krok John Lucas Adaptive Wind Tunnel Caltech MS 205-45, Pasadena, CA 91125

[Devon Jarvis]

> > From: > > Subject: Re: RE: Tips for High Altitude Riding? > > > > Not to be argumentative, but why not switch out to a K&N filter at higher elevations to help lean out the mixture? This is a quick, easy change, and easily reversible. >

Why not buy the mixture screw adjustment tool, and just turn the screw in 3/4 turn when you hit the point where your idle slows down. Takes 30 sec and can be done with the motor still running. "Swapping out the air filter" is easy enough when it clean. When the airbox interior is covered with dust and dead insects it's another matter. Devon -- "It's a troublesome world, all the people who are in it, are troubled with troubles almost every minute" Dr. Seuss

[beachmike1]

Depending on outside air temp at 600 feet you are down about 225 or air in ...well the air about you. Ie the thing is runnig at lower air pressure than designed . think of this as a negative turbo charger. Carburnators operate NOT on pressure nor vacuum per se but on the presurre differentail between the venturi and the outside (ambient air). SO it is going to flow at 6500 ft the same f=amount of fueal as at sea level given the gave gas velocity crsoosing the ventiry (within reason for this arguement. Therefore you have to lean out the jetting on the bike. In this over rich condition you are not only suffering engine power loss due to the lack of air in the air, but due to too much fuel interfering with flame speed in the motor. A nominal power drop due to the elevation chage is about 22 percent or the differance betweeen a KLR and a BMW funduro. WOW!. Now due to the excessive ROP (Rch of Peak ) condition you can be losing another 15 % YUK! So go on line and check wthe the Cab manufacturer on the jetting required. To keep from going frm ROP to LOP (Lean of peak) DO NOT OVER LEAN JETTING. By that. do not rejet to a elevation higher than you plan to ride. IE if you jet to 6000 ft and ride at say 4000, expect a LARGE repair bill.

[Mark Harfenist]

This is the part I can't seem to grasp about jetting for altitude.  A couple of months ago I rode through various iterations of the Andes (Colombia, Peru, Bolivia, then back and forth between Argentina and Chile).  Altitude on any given day could range from 15k feet down to 5k.....or even to sea level, before climbing back to 15k.  This went on for a couple of months.  At high altitudes the bike ran crummy, but it hardly even fouled my spark plug and all returned to KLR-normal whenever I descended. If I'd changed out jets, I'd be spending all my time by the side of the road fiddling with my carburator....or I'd be shipping my bike home in a crate for engine repairs.  Perhaps it's different if you ride only in Colorado and Wyoming, but what do you do if you decide to visit your cousin in Phoenix or your great Aunt in Iowa City?  Are people really this methodical?  Or is the changing of jets appropriate to a certain kind of usage, perhaps less applicable to long-distance travel through major mountain ranges?  Not a criticism, but rather genuine curiosity.  Mark  (from Brasilia, a surreal, master-planned city built in just three years from scratch back in the fabulous sixties, now fraying a bit around the edges)

>high altitude

>Posted by:

"beachmike1" beachmike1@...   beachmike1

>Tue Apr 27, 2010 9:56 pm (PDT)

>"DO NOT OVER LEAN JETTING. By that. do not rejet to a elevation higher than you plan to ride. IE if >you jet to 6000 ft and ride at say 4000, expect a LARGE repair bill. "

[Rick Brown]

Hi Mark and All,   I hadn't considered re-jeting for my bike.  I was just having a couple of problems I figured I could get some advice on to make it easier to start and maybe get a little better power at higher altitude.   It looks to me that I might want to open up the air cleaner box so the bike breaths better and maybe adjust the carburator to run a little leaner on idle.   I might even experiment w/ a hotter plug (mindfull of the heat).   However I'm like most of the other guys on this site, I'd rather be riding on the bike rather than working on it.   I do thank everybody for their input on this matter, it has been a help both for the simple fixes to try on the performance end and the fishing rod holder.   I hope to report on the results on the performance tweaks and maybe some pictures of the rack in the next couple of weeks.   Sounds like great riding you're getting in! Rick  [b]From:[/b] Mark Harfenist [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Wed, April 28, 2010 5:40:34 AM [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] high altitude   This is the part I can't seem to grasp about jetting for altitude.  A couple of months ago I rode through various iterations of the Andes (Colombia, Peru, Bolivia, then back and forth between Argentina and Chile).  Altitude on any given day could range from 15k feet down to 5k.....or even to sea level, before climbing back to 15k.  This went on for a couple of months.  At high altitudes the bike ran crummy, but it hardly even fouled my spark plug and all returned to KLR-normal whenever I descended. If I'd changed out jets, I'd be spending all my time by the side of the road fiddling with my carburator.. ..or I'd be shipping my bike home in a crate for engine repairs.  Perhaps it's different if you ride only in Colorado and Wyoming, but what do you do if you decide to visit your cousin in Phoenix or your great Aunt in Iowa City?  Are people really this methodical?  Or is the changing of jets appropriate to a certain kind of usage, perhaps less applicable to long-distance travel through major mountain ranges?  Not a criticism, but rather genuine curiosity.  Mark  (from Brasilia, a surreal, master-planned city built in just three years from scratch back in the fabulous sixties, now fraying a bit around the edges)

>high altitude >Posted by: "beachmike1" beachmike1@yahoo. com   beachmike1 >Tue Apr 27, 2010 9:56 pm (PDT) >"DO NOT OVER LEAN JETTING. By that. do not rejet to a elevation higher than you plan to ride. IE if >you jet to 6000 ft and ride at say 4000, expect a LARGE repair bill. "

[Jud]

Nice long post, right on about how sand is bad, a lot of digressions, and a dismissive comment about WD40. One thing is missing: HOW LONG DO YOUR CHAINS LAST on your chain treatment regimen? Without that, I have no idea whether I should adopt your methods, or just keep using WD40. Nobody has ever shown me a method that makes their chains last longer in the conditions I ride in, without using a continuous-flow chain oiler. I wish I had back the minute I spent reading your post. I could have spent it doing something demonstrably useful, like spraying WD40 on my chain.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "beachmike1" wrote: > > Sand is bad on chains. I use JP1 lube love is sticky stays on the chain and sproket (which s REALL what you are lubing, the sproket chain interface.) THe chain itsef is sealed and nternally lubed. > > FIrst clean the crap off the chain every FEW hundred miles. Bring the bike to a car wash (coin type). Let the bike cool. put out the smokes. shut off the thing, and make sure no one is smoking ighting fires or any pyro crap going on about you.. > > CLaeing the chain takes a few steps. > > THe trie / engine cleaner at the quarter car wash works well. Was the bike too careful with the radiator though you can honk it up. realy nail the counter shaft sproket area. you want it clean. > > Dry the chain with a the papaer towels you brought. CLean the remainign gunk off with a good spray solvent GUNK carb cleaner works well but is kinda stinky but safe. IF you do not mind not too safe (remeber fires) use starter fluid. GREAT slovent, also nearly expolsive, can konock you out (ether) is not cheap. wipe up the messs from the cahin and do it again. Move the bike enough to clean the sprokets too. Let this dry a bit. It takes VERY little. Now get your CHAIN lube out NOT WD 40. and apply to the inner surface of te chain rollers. also both sides of teh countershaft sproket. move the bike to get the part of the chain you missed. Okay put evrything away. throw the trash in the trash. GO out for a ride. This should be done every 300 to 500 miles . I rifding in the crud maybe every 100 to 200 miles. If in mud, clean up as soon as out of the mud. > > I am picky but then I had only one drive cahin mishap in 38 years of riding. This includes a ot of Motocross and old brit bike. THose really were not bad n chains, even the crappy chains of the 70s. Why they were 360 degree crankcs which had HUGE crankcase pressure differentials. Any one with a brian ran the breather tube over the chain. it wuld fog the chain well. out and the counter shaft seal didn't nor did the brakes. nor suspension (I actually said once. "But it has 4 good inches of travel" . > > BTW the old bikes and old days sucked. a brit twin was about as fast as a KLR. high 13 to low 14 quarter and MAYBE 105 top. the factories claimed 48 to 3 hp. THat was DIN GROSS. ie now accessoried (Ignition , generator etc. (Those use power folks, anywhere from 3 to 6 hp.)DIN hp was smaller than an SAE hp. and flash pwer readings were allowed, > I put my rebuilt 70 trident on a chasssis dyno an tuned fro a good hour to get 48 hp rear whell vs advertised 58. and while the trident carried anextra 75 lbs over the bonnieville iit was noticably quicker, and the lslist of a ew trident in 75 was over 3800 buck which is what the price of my NEW KLR was in 2010. THe best days are NOW! > > Next ride the bike dry. > > Clean the rest fof teh crud off >