i saw the best panniers ever at disney's animal kingdom last week

[njtc@mail.ocis.net]

I installed a Scott oiler on the bike about 500km ago. I was using proprietory spray on chain lube to that point, but now use the lubricant which came with the oiler. Previously the chain seemed to pick up a lot of road grit and grime which seemed to stick to the lube; now the chain looks as if it has been rinsed off and just looks nicely moist. I have the oiler delivering one drip per minute. There does not seem to be any road grime adhesion at all. My travelling is almost exclusively highway so I do not know what the effect would be with the addition of trail dust etc. BTW I have had the bike since 5300km and have put nearly 8000km on it. I have not had to adjust the chain at all. Gromit A13

[beachmike1]

Sand is bad on chains. I use JP1 lube love is sticky stays on the chain and sproket (which s REALL what you are lubing, the sproket chain interface.) THe chain itsef is sealed and nternally lubed. FIrst clean the crap off the chain every FEW hundred miles. Bring the bike to a car wash (coin type). Let the bike cool. put out the smokes. shut off the thing, and make sure no one is smoking ighting fires or any pyro crap going on about you.. CLaeing the chain takes a few steps. THe trie / engine cleaner at the quarter car wash works well. Was the bike too careful with the radiator though you can honk it up. realy nail the counter shaft sproket area. you want it clean. Dry the chain with a the papaer towels you brought. CLean the remainign gunk off with a good spray solvent GUNK carb cleaner works well but is kinda stinky but safe. IF you do not mind not too safe (remeber fires) use starter fluid. GREAT slovent, also nearly expolsive, can konock you out (ether) is not cheap. wipe up the messs from the cahin and do it again. Move the bike enough to clean the sprokets too. Let this dry a bit. It takes VERY little. Now get your CHAIN lube out NOT WD 40. and apply to the inner surface of te chain rollers. also both sides of teh countershaft sproket. move the bike to get the part of the chain you missed. Okay put evrything away. throw the trash in the trash. GO out for a ride. This should be done every 300 to 500 miles . I rifding in the crud maybe every 100 to 200 miles. If in mud, clean up as soon as out of the mud. I am picky but then I had only one drive cahin mishap in 38 years of riding. This includes a ot of Motocross and old brit bike. THose really were not bad n chains, even the crappy chains of the 70s. Why they were 360 degree crankcs which had HUGE crankcase pressure differentials. Any one with a brian ran the breather tube over the chain. it wuld fog the chain well. out and the counter shaft seal didn't nor did the brakes. nor suspension (I actually said once. "But it has 4 good inches of travel" . BTW the old bikes and old days sucked. a brit twin was about as fast as a KLR. high 13 to low 14 quarter and MAYBE 105 top. the factories claimed 48 to 3 hp. THat was DIN GROSS. ie now accessoried (Ignition , generator etc. (Those use power folks, anywhere from 3 to 6 hp.)DIN hp was smaller than an SAE hp. and flash pwer readings were allowed, > I put my rebuilt 70 trident on a chasssis dyno an tuned fro a good hour to get 48 hp rear whell vs advertised 58. and while the trident carried anextra 75 lbs over the bonnieville iit was noticably quicker, and the lslist of a ew trident in 75 was over 3800 buck which is what the price of my NEW KLR was in 2010. THe best days are NOW! Next ride the bike dry. Clean the rest fof teh crud off

[skypilot110]

Tell me these arent cool. Necessity may be the mother of invention but she evidently lives where ever Disney found this bike. http://www.photoshop.com/accounts/c1f091f956124a6cbc1bbb044044f846/px-assets/4c92436bc76a462eb5386a411259bc2f Chris