need valve adjustment in nyc area will pay

[fasteddiecopeman]

Guys, Some time ago I asked for suggestions to 'tighten-up' my shifter where it attaches to the gearbox. I had tried pretty much everything you all came up with, but my shifter was still loose. I even bought an aftermarket shifter (still loose), opened up it's 'gap' (still loose) and even used a longer bolt so I could then attach a nut at the bottom, and tighten THAT (still loose). Yesterday I pulled it apart AGAIN to look for another solution. This time I cut a piece of brass shimstock (.01" - ten THOUSANDTH of an inch) about 5/16"W x 1/2"L, bent it into an L and bent the long side towards 'round'. I put that into my shifter (from the rear - the short part of the L holding across the backside of the shifter) and lined up the shifter with the shaft, then GENTLY tapped the shifter onto the splines with a ball pein hammer and a brass drift. SUCCESS! The shimstock stayed in place and tightened the shifter so it no longer has slop on the splines. Went for a ride and it now shifts much better than it ever has, without the shifter moving all over the place...! My .02$ in case it helps any of you with a similar problem. Cheers, Ed

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "fasteddiecopeman" wrote:

> > Guys, > > Some time ago I asked for suggestions to 'tighten-up' my shifter where it attaches to the gearbox. I had tried pretty much everything you all came up with, but my shifter was still loose. I even bought an aftermarket shifter (still loose), opened up it's 'gap' (still loose) and even used a longer bolt so I could then attach a nut at the bottom, and tighten THAT (still loose). > > Yesterday I pulled it apart AGAIN to look for another solution. This time I cut a piece of brass shimstock (.01" - ten THOUSANDTH of an inch) about 5/16"W x 1/2"L, bent it into an L and bent the long side towards 'round'. I put that into my shifter (from the rear - the short part of the L holding across the backside of the shifter) and lined up the shifter with the shaft, then GENTLY tapped the shifter onto the splines with a ball pein hammer and a brass drift. > > SUCCESS! The shimstock stayed in place and tightened the shifter so it no longer has slop on the splines. Went for a ride and it now shifts much better than it ever has, without the shifter moving all over the place...! > > My .02$ in case it helps any of you with a similar problem. > > Cheers, > Ed >

Eddie, Were the splines coming out of the bike rounded off? revmaaatin.

[fasteddiecopeman]

Martin, No. As far as I can see they look fine. They just have to be somewhat undersized based on TWO different shifters. Ed

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "revmaaatin" wrote: >> > > > Eddie, > Were the splines coming out of the bike rounded off? > revmaaatin. >

[fasteddiecopeman]

To Don Montgomery, Don, No, it doesn't get snug even with a gap, and even with the longer bolt backed up with a nut. The brass shimstock FIXED my problem, and I didn't say that the brass didn't last. Just fixed it 2 days ago and it's FINALLY snug...! Cheers, Ed

[Tengai Mark Van Horn]

At 4:27 PM +0000 8/23/09, fasteddiecopeman wrote:

>... opened up it's 'gap' (still loose) and even used a longer bolt >so I could then attach a nut at the bottom, and tighten THAT (still >loose). > >Yesterday I pulled it apart AGAIN to look for another solution. This >time I cut a piece of brass shimstock (.01" - ten THOUSANDTH of an >inch)... >SUCCESS! The shimstock stayed in place and tightened the shifter so >it no longer has slop on the splines. Went for a ride and it now >shifts much better than it ever has, without the shifter moving all >over the place...!

Just curious... how did you "open the gap" in your previous attempt? If you just spread it open, that won't do anything. You need to remove metal. However, your fix looks just as effective and possibly quicker. Mark

[spike55_bmw]

That's less than $20/hr. Where will the new shims come from and who's buying them? Who's tools? Just razzin' you. Out of town and 200 miles away. Good luck. From my meager note taking, it seems that your valves will be at minimal clearance by 15K. Don R100, A6F

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "gbennett69" wrote: > > Hi > I need the 15k valve adjustment. > So im looking for a mech in the area, I will travel too you. > I will pay 100 bucks > just respond to this ad > thanks > Garrett > Bayonne,NJ > 08 KLR >