[dsn_klr650] chain life

DSN_KLR650
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maxtork1957
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 7:14 am

mixing tires

Post by maxtork1957 » Wed Apr 22, 2009 5:39 pm

Is it ok to leave the stock Dunlop knobby on the front and switch the rear to a different brand and design like the Pirelli Scorpion Trail? Relax tho', not really looking for the general tire discussion !

E.L. Green
Posts: 639
Joined: Sat Dec 03, 2005 11:36 am

mixing tires

Post by E.L. Green » Wed Apr 22, 2009 5:51 pm

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "maxtork1957" wrote:
> Is it ok to leave the stock Dunlop knobby on the front and switch the rear to a different brand and design like the Pirelli Scorpion Trail? Relax tho', not really looking for the general tire discussion !
Yes. However, it also depends on what you're trying to do. For example, if you're trying to keep the front end from washing out on dirt but you're otherwise happy with the tire life and roadability of the Continental TKC-80, you might put a Dunlop D606 on front and the Conti on the back. For your purpose, you're going with a more street-oriented tire up front and a more dirt-oriented tire in back (if I'm reading you correctly). That is a combination that works best when you're going slow off-road (otherwise the front wants to push and wash out), want better acceleration and braking traction from your rear for going up and down loose slopes, and want better front braking and turn-in on pavement. If this is what you're wanting, that's a good combination.

Lee Dodge
Posts: 110
Joined: Wed Sep 29, 2004 1:21 pm

[dsn_klr650] chain life

Post by Lee Dodge » Thu Apr 23, 2009 1:03 pm

Correct me if I'm wrong BUT a roller chain is designed so that the sleeve we see as the roller is really a sleeve bearing that can rotate on a bearing surface under it- it is lubricated there. In the contact with the sprocket there is no relative motion i.e. metal to metal contact for sure BUT no sliding or movement between the two so no need for lubrication there. In fact there is the possibility for grit to get between those two surfaces(sprocket & chain roller) but no lubrication can help help mitigate those compression forces in fact here is where liquid external lubricants hurt because they can hold grit on those surfaces. WD -40 doesn't leave a wet film but does possibly help the O rings and the spray may blow/wash off grit.
--- On Wed, 4/22/09, Jud Jones wrote: From: Jud Jones Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: chain life To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Wednesday, April 22, 2009, 7:36 PM --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, Rick McCauley wrote: > > I sure understand the point that clean is a good thing. Grit is like sand paper. But metal to metal is never a good thing either. > Jud, I don't recall if it was you, or someone else, that said you got over 20,000 miles out of a chain using WD-40. When, and how do you do your lubing? > Lots of people get similar results with WD40. In fact, that kind of chain life is quite common. I spray my chain down about every 300 miles, or every tank of gas, sometimes more often, sometimes less. If it's really crudded up, I use a grunge brush. I wouldn't say I lube it. The lubricant comes with the chain, contained by the x-rings. I don't care what you use, if you are not using a chain oiler, metal-to-metal between rollers and teeth is the norm. Try this: Treat your chain with your "lube" of choice. Ride your bike, say, 10 miles. Tell me how much "lube" is left on the rollers or the bearing surfaces of the sprocket. If you see anything but bare metal, please let me know, because that is all I have ever observed. It usually takes no more than a ride around the block, maybe a little further, like across the river to the coffee shop. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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