need info on replacing steering bearings?

[cactus_reese]

As you can tell, this is very difficult to do. I would think long and hard about whether or not it is necessary. I ended up cutting a slot in my bottom race with a dremel tool cutting wheel and then punching it out. The slot was almost all the way through and the punch broke it the whole way. -Bryan

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote: > > On Wed, 11 Feb 2009 04:36:48 -0000 "hardyreels" > writes: > > Have Clymer but can not get the old races out of the frames steering > > > > tube. Need to find out what type of punch (Clymer calls it a drift) > > to > > use and where to get it. > > > > Help, please > <><><><><><><><><><> > <><><><><><><><><><> > > hardyreels, > > I haven't removed a top race yet but have done a few bottom races. They > are the same bearing as an airhead BMW. You can get a special puller > that will fit the bottom race only on the KLR from Cycleworks. > > http://www.cycleworks.net/tools_chassis_wheels.htm > > "HEAD BEARING PULLER 1970-1995 AIRHEADS AND WE THINK all K BIKES > To remove the difficult to get at outer races of all airhead head > (steering) bearings." > > Today is priced at $39. > > If you don't want to spend that kind of money you can run a weld bead > around the inside of the race and as the weld cools it will shrink and > the race will almost fall out. MIG works well and is quick but stick > should work well too. > > Another way to do it is to weld a washer to the inside of the race and > that will give a punch something to hit. > > If you don't want to mess with the special puller or welding I think a > guy could make a punch with a bit of patience. Take a pipe that will > just fit through the hole in the race and is a bit longer than the > steering head. Cut it length wise into 90 degree sections leaving a bit > at the end to hold them all together. Then spread the four cut ends so > they flare out. Pull the pipe/punch up through the race so the flares > compress and then snap out as they get above the race. Now you'll have a > pipe at the top and four places on the race where the pipe contacts the > race. Smart blows should move the race out for you. > > I understand when some folks get the race out they grind a few relief > areas in the steering head so the next time they have to do the job they > have a place to put a punch. It shouldn't take much of a relief cut to > work well. I suppose a guy could use a dremel tool with a cut off wheel > to put some relief areas into the steering head while the bearing is in > place. Then just use a long punch to remove the race. > > For installation I like to freeze the outer race and heat the steering > head. Then I use the old race which I've cut so it will compress (in > diameter) a tad as a driver. I get the steering head to spit hot which > is when you spit on it the spit sizzles. If you have an infrared > temperature sensor that's about 212 degrees F. I use a heat gun for that > heating operation. > > Good luck with the project. I'll be doing my steering head bearings > sometime in the next few months using an All Balls kit. > > Best, > > Jeff > ____________________________________________________________ > Need cash? Click to get a cash advance. > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/PnY6rw1hEPa3quRnDZhKSKsxWN 5jzcMnYVzmF4dmASkvk3QSHsZak/ > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >