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[barocky]

My 96 klr started acting up last summer. On a hard excelleration from full stop rpms going up and bike lost power. It would run under 20mph I had to choke it to ride it home at 40mph. I though jets plugged I rejeted carb and it seemed ok. Running rough this fall had valves adjusted tech looked at carb and said it looked ok. This week same thing accelerated and bike lost power had to run on choke to get home. I saw a reference in this list to a diaphram problem any other input. It has also happened one other time and bike mysteriously got better overnight. Now the bike seems to be running ok but don't want to take it far until I can right the problem. I have limited skills and this doesn't seem to happen when I am near a bike shop. Brian A

[Tengai Mark Van Horn]

Maybe carb ice? Was it humid and freezing +/- about 5F? If so, that's my guess. Mark At 9:14 PM +0000 2/6/09, barocky wrote:

>... accelerated >and bike lost power had to run on choke to get home. I saw a >reference in this list to a >diaphram problem any other input. It has also happened one other >time and bike >mysteriously got better overnight. Now the bike seems to be running >ok but don't want to >take it far until I can right the problem. ...

[Cindy & Wayne Burner]

Brian, I experienced the poor running at the end of last season, and it was the diaphram, but it was not intermittent. If you do find that it is the diaphram, be sure to go to the" Charlie- David's son" dealer to get the carb parts. Mine was the same carb used on the big v-twin, and the part cost less than half of what Kawasaki wanted. Wayne(rice)Burner

[Michael Martin]

Brian, A couple of other things to check, besides what others have suggested: 1. If the bike has an aftermarket fuel filter installed, it might be plugged. 2. If the bike has a vacuum actuated fuel petcock, it may be faulty. You can check it by disconnecting the lines to it, connecting a piece of tubing to the vacuum port and use a MityVac or your mouth to determine whether the port will hold a vacuum once it is applied. Of course, fuel should flow while the vacuum is applied. Mike Martin, Louisville, KY ________________________________ From: barocky To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, February 6, 2009 4:14:07 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Diaphram? My 96 klr started acting up last summer. On a hard excelleration from full stop rpms going up and bike lost power. It would run under 20mph I had to choke it to ride it home at 40mph. I though jets plugged I rejeted carb and it seemed ok. Running rough this fall had valves adjusted tech looked at carb and said it looked ok. This week same thing accelerated and bike lost power had to run on choke to get home. I saw a reference in this list to a diaphram problem any other input. It has also happened one other time and bike mysteriously got better overnight. Now the bike seems to be running ok but don't want to take it far until I can right the problem. I have limited skills and this doesn't seem to happen when I am near a bike shop. Brian A [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Michael Martin wrote:

> > Brian, > > A couple of other things to check, besides what others have

suggested:

> > 1. If the bike has an aftermarket fuel filter installed, it might

be plugged.

> > 2. > If the bike has a vacuum actuated fuel petcock, it may be faulty.

You

> can check it by disconnecting the lines to it, connecting a piece of > tubing to the vacuum port and use a MityVac or your mouth to

determine

> whether the port will hold a vacuum once it is applied. Of course, > fuel should flow while the vacuum is applied. > > Mike Martin, > Louisville, KY

Mike, I don't know if this is according to the Hoyle--but, you can check the fuel flow/petcock diaphragm for operation by draining the bowl, and then leaving the drain/screw out for a moment. then, Crank the bike. When I was draining my fuel bowl due to the contaminated fuel in Midland, SD last summer--I cranked the bike with the bowl drain plug removed to see if it was pumping fuel. because, If the petcock diaphragm is intact, every time the piston draws a vaccum, you will get a squirt of fuel. It will look like an aortic 'bleeder'--SQUIRT-SQUIRT-SQUIRT with every revolution of the piston. Pretty neat, actually. Might be something someone else has seen, but I didn't remember anyone ever saying that is how they could check the integrity of their petcock diaphragm. What did I learn? DON'T have your face to close, cause if it is all working as it should, =according to Hoyle, you will see fuel come out like it was on a fuel pump. Eliminated all doubt if the petcock was working correctly.... revmaaatin. who prefers water to fuel for bathing...ah, and so will you.

[Jud Jones]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "revmaaatin" wrote:

> > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Michael Martin > wrote: > > > > Brian, > > > > A couple of other things to check, besides what others have > suggested: > > > > 1. If the bike has an aftermarket fuel filter installed, it might > be plugged. > > > > 2. > > If the bike has a vacuum actuated fuel petcock, it may be faulty. > You > > can check it by disconnecting the lines to it, connecting a piece of > > tubing to the vacuum port and use a MityVac or your mouth to > determine > > whether the port will hold a vacuum once it is applied. Of course, > > fuel should flow while the vacuum is applied. > > > > Mike Martin, > > Louisville, KY > > Mike, > I don't know if this is according to the Hoyle--but, > you can check the fuel flow/petcock diaphragm for operation by > draining the bowl, and then leaving the drain/screw out for a moment. > then, > Crank the bike. > > When I was draining my fuel bowl due to the contaminated fuel in > Midland, SD last summer--I cranked the bike with the bowl drain plug > removed to see if it was pumping fuel. > because, > If the petcock diaphragm is intact, every time the piston draws a > vaccum, you will get a squirt of fuel. It will look like an > aortic 'bleeder'--SQUIRT-SQUIRT-SQUIRT with every revolution of the > piston. Pretty neat, actually. Might be something someone else has > seen, but I didn't remember anyone ever saying that is how they could > check the integrity of their petcock diaphragm. > > What did I learn? > > DON'T have your face to close, cause if it is all working as it > should, =according to Hoyle, you will see fuel come out like it was > on a fuel pump. Eliminated all doubt if the petcock was working > correctly.... > > revmaaatin. who prefers water to fuel for bathing...ah, and so will > you. >

It's even easier just to pull the fuel line off the petcock and crank.

[Ross Lindberg]

Sounds interesting. Where did you find them at? Ross Lindberg Fertile, MN - Oakdale, CA Just one more week and I get to go home and visit my KLR --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "nakedwaterskier" wrote:

> > I found these online. So, you don't have to make em. But, I would > first put in a brighter bulb in the headlight on all the older KLRs > > I AM NOT A VENDOR NOR HAVE I TRIED THEM YET. > > SUPER BRIGHT HIGH PERFORMANCE L.E.D. FOG LIGHTS > SUPER BRIGHT HIGH PERFORMANCE L.E.D. FOG LIGHTS Price: > $59.49Retail:$116.50 - $116.77Leading Discounter: > $73.99Availability: Some items Will SHIP in 1-4 days > > SUPER BRIGHT HIGH PERFORMANCE L.E.D. FOG LIGHTS > Provides over 100,000 hours of continual performance > High intensity L.E.D. bulb for optimum illumination > Energy efficient, consumes less power > Available in rectangle 4" x 2" or Round 3 1/2" > SUPER BRIGHT HIGH PERFORMANCE L.E.D. FOG LIGHTS > Provides over 100,000 hours of continual performance > High intensity L.E.D. bulb for optimum illumination > Energy efficient, consumes less power > Available in rectangle 4" x 2" or Round 3 1/2" > > Most items will ship within 24 hours > > Product Description > CarParts# > Unit > RetailCarParts PriceUniversal Fit Ultra Bright Rectangular LED

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