i rode the f800gs yesterday

DSN_KLR650
wa4tij
Posts: 32
Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2001 8:05 am

doohickey question

Post by wa4tij » Thu Mar 28, 2002 4:36 pm

All, No engine noise or problems, but out of curiosity, I pulled the magneto cover to look at the doohickey. I saw no pieces but when the bolt is loosened, the doohicky doesn't move. I removed the bolt and the doohicky still doesn't move. I thought this thing is spring loaded. Shouldn't it move? Do I need to remove the magneto? Thanks Robert A14

Devon Jarvis
Posts: 2322
Joined: Thu May 10, 2001 9:41 am

doohickey question

Post by Devon Jarvis » Thu Mar 28, 2002 4:43 pm

It shouldn't move enough to be obvious, unless it's extremely loose. How many miles are on your bike? Devon wa4tij wrote:
> > All, > > No engine noise or problems, but out of curiosity, I pulled the > magneto cover to look at the doohickey. > > I saw no pieces but when the bolt is loosened, the doohicky doesn't > move. I removed the bolt and the doohicky still doesn't move. > > I thought this thing is spring loaded. Shouldn't it move? Do I need > to remove the magneto? > > Thanks > > Robert A14 > > Checkout Dual Sport News at > http://www.dualsportnews.com > Be part of the Adventure! > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > > Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com > Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Matthew
Posts: 226
Joined: Tue Mar 21, 2006 3:08 pm

doohickey question

Post by Matthew » Sat Oct 12, 2002 3:40 pm

Hey all, Is the crankshaft soposed to be able to move independentley of the large gear undrneath it connected to the starter gears? Im doing the doohickey upgrade.. I tightend the crankshaft bolt to specs but can still move the balancer counter clockwise independently of the large gear underneath it. Matthew

Jim
Posts: 1560
Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2001 11:15 am

doohickey question

Post by Jim » Sat Nov 01, 2003 8:00 pm

My brother has a '94 KLR650 and we will be doing the doohickey replacment very soon. After reading the faq I understand there are diffences in the system and we need to know what else besides a new lever, spring and rotor bolt do we need to upgrade this older system? Is a new adjustment bolt and washer necessary? Will the new lever function properly with the old adjustment bolt? Any help on this is appreciated. Thanks. --Jim A-15

Don Sprinkle
Posts: 24
Joined: Fri Oct 25, 2002 3:02 pm

doohickey question

Post by Don Sprinkle » Thu Dec 18, 2003 4:12 pm

Of all you guys who have done the doohickey swap, have any of you used a 3/4" socket on the large rotor bolt instead of a 19mm? My chart shows the 3/4" as being only .002" larger than the 19mm but the biggest difference is I actually have a 1/2" drive, 3/4" deep well socket and my 19mm is thin-walled and only a 3/8" drive. My breaker bar is 3/4" drive; should I go to the pawn shop and find a large 19mm socket? Thanks. Don Sprinkle A12

Doug Herr
Posts: 727
Joined: Tue Apr 15, 2003 8:02 pm

doohickey question

Post by Doug Herr » Fri Jan 02, 2004 8:49 pm

On Thu, 18 Dec 2003, Don Sprinkle wrote:
> Of all you guys who have done the doohickey swap, have any of you > used a 3/4" socket on the large rotor bolt instead of a 19mm? My > chart shows the 3/4" as being only .002" larger than the 19mm but the > biggest difference is I actually have a 1/2" drive, 3/4" deep well > socket and my 19mm is thin-walled and only a 3/8" drive. My breaker > bar is 3/4" drive; should I go to the pawn shop and find a large 19mm > socket? Thanks.
Pretty late reply to this, but I have been rather slow in keeping up to date in the group. I used a 3/4" socket that was a 3/8" drive type. I have both 19mm and 3/4", both are for 3/8" drive. I used the 3/4" since it is a 6 point where the 19mm is a 12 point (if that is the right term). I figured that the 3/4" fit with less chance of slipping and stripping the head of the bolt. All went well using this technique on both mine and my wife's A16's. As to the details of the jobs; both bikes were right around 6000 miles. Neither had damage to lever or spring. On hers I was more careful to notice how much tension was left in the original spring and it looked like there was no spring tension left. So, with 2 adjustments done so far, it is clear that on that bike it would have been best to not do any more adjusting if the parts were not going to be replaced. But I would not have opened the bike without replacing the parts, so would not have known that the spring had reached the end of it's travel. So, bottom line is that I am happy I did not wait to do the job. -- Doug Herr doug@...

Ron
Posts: 79
Joined: Mon Oct 04, 2010 7:33 am

doohickey question

Post by Ron » Tue Mar 02, 2004 8:35 pm

When I was reassembling things after installing the new balancer adjuster and oil screen inspection etc., I noticed that the 'silver' balancer chain links did not match up with anything yet all the location marks and painted sprocket teeth seemed to be in the right place when I rolled the engine to TDC. As far as I know the bike had never been opened up before I got it. Just to be safe I carefully went thought the procedure to be certain the balancer assembly was perfectly calibrated - according to the manual. Has anyone else noted this? The bike ran fine prior to this even thought my lever spring was broken. Perhaps my A-16 was assemble on a Monday or Friday? Ron in Montana A-16 A-8 H-D Road Toad

klr6501995
Posts: 629
Joined: Wed Sep 11, 2002 3:39 am

doohickey question

Post by klr6501995 » Tue Mar 02, 2004 8:47 pm

you gotta rotate the motor over many times, eventually the silver links will line up with respective timing marks.
--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Ron" wrote: > When I was reassembling things after installing the new balancer adjuster > and oil screen inspection etc., I noticed that the 'silver' balancer chain > links did not match up with anything yet all the location marks and painted > sprocket teeth seemed to be in the right place when I rolled the engine to > TDC. As far as I know the bike had never been opened up before I got it. > Just to be safe I carefully went thought the procedure to be certain the > balancer assembly was perfectly calibrated - according to the manual. > Has anyone else noted this? The bike ran fine prior to this even thought my > lever spring was broken. > Perhaps my A-16 was assemble on a Monday or Friday? > Ron in Montana > A-16 > A-8 > H-D Road Toad

pete88chester
Posts: 11
Joined: Thu Jul 18, 2002 12:50 am

doohickey question

Post by pete88chester » Tue Mar 02, 2004 11:56 pm

I suggest that anybody doing the doohicky/spring replacement also check the balancer chain timing. When I did my replacement I found the balancer chain timing off by one tooth at the crankshaft. It is pretty easy to do, just follow the directions in the manual. My engine was a lot smoother after correcting the balancer chain timing. Pete Chester A16

will gilmore
Posts: 114
Joined: Thu Jul 08, 2004 10:58 am

doohickey question

Post by will gilmore » Mon Sep 13, 2004 12:43 pm

It pains me to ask this question knowing how many times posters have referred to it but ----- what is a doohicky and when should it be replaced and with what. I'm planning to devote an entire week in the coldest and snowiest days of Wisconsin winter to do everything that needs done to my A-12. Should the doohicky be on the list? Thanks guys for all your help. Will

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