removing tires

[smthng else]

On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 8:17 AM, Dooden wrote:

> Wheels on or off would make the big difference, just to spoon on and > inflate $50 sounds pretty fair from a shop managers position, on the > bike not a chance even if you bought the tires from the parts depart.

I think Jim was actually asking "How do I take off the wheels?"... so he can have the dealer do the spooning. I haven't done the front yet, but rear is easy... unbolt the rear caliper (don't drop it, it falls right off), hook it somewhere out of the way so that you're not pulling on the brake line and make sure it stays right way up, or it'll spew fluid all over you (at least my '08 does when upside down). Loosen adjustment bolts, unbolt main axle bolt, pull it out, pay attention to the two of three washers so you know where to put them back in, unhook the chain (it probably fell off by now), pull the wheel out, don't let the sprocket or bearings fall out (I use a couple of long zipties through the spokes to hold the sprocket to the brake rotor and keep everything in place). Reinstallation is reverse of removal. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to hunt down torque specs for installation... sorry, mine are buried and I'm not pulling them out again until I need to fix a flat or replace the stock rubbers. --Jonathan "smthng" Kalmes Springfield, VA 2005 Yamaha FJR1300ABS - "Blue Bayou" 2006 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon - "Teflon" 2008 Kawasaki KLR 650 - It's here, but it hasn't earned a name yet. http://smthng.info "Look, the truth is, I've been trying to save the world, one person at a time, but, I'm meant for smthng bigger. Smthng important. I know it now."

[dave.rogoski]

does anyone know the reccomended torque for the two screws/bolts that hold the cap on the oil filter cover? Also - I keep reading about the O ring needed when changing oil - what O ring are they talking about? I didn't see any O ring? Also, I keep seeing folks refer to the aluminum crush washer? I just did my first oil draining and there was no washer on the oil drain bold, is this the normal stock bolt or is mine missing?

[Spike55]

There's an O-ring around the cap for the oil filter chamber. It should remain in reusable condition on the cap. Make sure it has some oil on it when putting things back together. That will help it slide together and not get cut / scratched which could start a small leak. I use a little bit of blue Loctite on those two little oil filer cap rather than depend on having them "tight enough". Can't remember if there is a torque spec for them. There should be an aluminum or copper crush washer on the oil drain plug and I think it gets torqued to 16-17 ft lbs. Jeff Saline had posted over the years that he used a heat resistant rubber / plastic washer that he got at NAPA but I can't remember the part number or if he still recommends it. If you want to go that way, take the drain plug with you and they can match it up. Don R100, A6F --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "dave.rogoski" wrote:

> > does anyone know the reccomended torque for the two screws/bolts that > hold the cap on the oil filter cover? > > Also - I keep reading about the O ring needed when changing oil -

what

> O ring are they talking about? I didn't see any O ring? > > Also, I keep seeing folks refer to the aluminum crush washer? I just > did my first oil draining and there was no washer on the oil drain > bold, is this the normal stock bolt or is mine missing? >

[smthng else]

On Wed, Jun 18, 2008 at 6:06 AM, Spike55 wrote:

> There should be an aluminum or copper crush washer on the oil drain > plug and I think it gets torqued to 16-17 ft lbs.

You need this or smthng like it... I've seen other bikes blow oil out the bottom without it. One thing I've seen fairly regularly is that the washer gets crushed enough that it sticks to the engine casing, not the bolt. The next time you pull the bolt, feel around the drain hole and see if it's stuck to the case. If it is, tap it with a screwdriver or smthng and it should pop right off. These crush washers are single use... replace them every time. It's probably a good idea to go ahead and get a magnetic drain plug while you're at it. Can't hurt and it's cheap insurance. I think Fred at Arrowhead carries them. Even though his bolt looks a little different, it still needs crush washers too. The standard ones work fine. --Jonathan "smthng" Kalmes Springfield, VA 2005 Yamaha FJR1300ABS - "Blue Bayou" 2006 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon - "Teflon" 2008 Kawasaki KLR 650 - It's here, but it hasn't earned a name yet. http://smthng.info "Look, the truth is, I've been trying to save the world, one person at a time, but, I'm meant for smthng bigger. Smthng important. I know it now."