best 80/20 tire?
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- Posts: 13
- Joined: Sat Feb 05, 2005 3:23 pm
subframe bolt upgrade
Being new to klr's I am probably asking for input on topics that have
been thoroughly discussed already. Thanks for your patience.
I have seen two options for subframe bolt replacement. One simply
replaces the four OEM bolts with a higher grade. The second appears
to involve three bolts by drilling out the two upper bolt threadways
and installing one long upper bolt.Obviously the first option is
easier,cheaper etc . But does this method provide adequate strength
for a 170 lb. rider and gear on rougher terrain?
Can anyone share their experience? I have been told by a couple of
experienced klr 'rs that this is one of the first things I should do
to my new machine.In their words "if they let go it can be ugly".
Thanks gang!
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subframe bolt upgrade
On Mon, Feb 07, 2005 at 03:22:58PM -0000, amigoride wrote:
Do we know of any reports of anyone managing to break the higher grade bolts (also known as the "Lite Blue" upgrade)? They're quite a bit stronger than stock and if you install them with red loctite on all bolts should have considerable resistance to vibrating loose. The way the stock bolts seem to go often seems to be that one of the lowers shakes loose and then the upper breaks -- keep them tight and you may go a long way towards solving the problem right there. A lot of people on the list do seem to go for the full-on upgrade with the drill. I don't ride very rough stuff but I do load the bike pretty heavily and I weigh about 200; I have not had trouble with the higher-grade, same-size bolts and the red Loctite on all of them.> > > I have seen two options for subframe bolt replacement. One simply > replaces the four OEM bolts with a higher grade. The second appears > to involve three bolts by drilling out the two upper bolt threadways > and installing one long upper bolt.Obviously the first option is > easier,cheaper etc . But does this method provide adequate strength > for a 170 lb. rider and gear on rougher terrain?
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- Joined: Wed Apr 21, 2004 1:41 pm
subframe bolt upgrade
On Mon, 7 Feb 2005, amigoride wrote:
Short answer: Yes. -E> I have seen two options for subframe bolt replacement. One simply > replaces the four OEM bolts with a higher grade. The second appears > to involve three bolts by drilling out the two upper bolt threadways > and installing one long upper bolt.Obviously the first option is > easier,cheaper etc . But does this method provide adequate strength > for a 170 lb. rider and gear on rougher terrain?
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subframe bolt upgrade
In a message dated 2/7/2005 7:40:34 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
amigoride@... writes:
Being new to klr's I am probably asking for input on topics that have
been thoroughly discussed already. Thanks for your patience.
I have seen two options for subframe bolt replacement. One simply
replaces the four OEM bolts with a higher grade. The second appears
to involve three bolts by drilling out the two upper bolt threadways
and installing one long upper bolt.Obviously the first option is
easier,cheaper etc . But does this method provide adequate strength
for a 170 lb. rider and gear on rougher terrain?
I'm a bit heavier than you, quite a bit actually, and the grade 12.9 top
bolts I installed several years ago have held up despite lots of rough road and
trail riding. Use blue Loktite and torque to spec.
Kurt Grife
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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- Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2000 2:04 pm
subframe bolt upgrade
I have not had trouble with the
Why red ? Bogdan> higher-grade, same-size bolts and the red Loctite on all of them.
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- Posts: 529
- Joined: Sun Oct 13, 2002 5:32 pm
subframe bolt upgrade
On Mon, Feb 07, 2005 at 11:07:24AM -0700, Bogdan Swider wrote:
Thor
As I recall, the top ones come with red threadlocker on them from the factory; it's not imappropriate at these torque ratings, and having had my factory lower bolts shake loose and having seen pictures of a KLR where the lowers shook loose and then the uppers broke, I do *not* want my subframe bolts, upper or lower, shaking loose -- period. It's basically a permanent assembly anyway. Why *not* red threadlocker, just for the peace of mind? You can still get it loose without breaking the 8mm bolts; I use red on my motor mounts, soo, and I've loosened them without trouble (but with a lot of grunting, which is fine with me!)> I have not had trouble with the > > higher-grade, same-size bolts and the red Loctite on all of them. > > Why red ?

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- Joined: Tue Nov 19, 2002 8:31 pm
subframe bolt upgrade
At 1:53 PM -0500 2/7/05, Thor Lancelot Simon wrote:
A friend of mine had me do the BigCee upgrade on his bike. When I removed the factory bolts, both heads twisted off. I saw traces of thread-locker in there, and had I known, I woulda heated the bolts with a blowtorch first. Mark>On Mon, Feb 07, 2005 at 11:07:24AM -0700, Bogdan Swider wrote: >> I have not had trouble with the >> > higher-grade, same-size bolts and the red Loctite on all of them. >> >> Why red ? > >As I recall, the top ones come with red threadlocker on them from the >factory; it's not imappropriate at these torque ratings, and having >had my factory lower bolts shake loose and having seen pictures of a >KLR where the lowers shook loose and then the uppers broke, I do *not* >want my subframe bolts, upper or lower, shaking loose -- period. > >It's basically a permanent assembly anyway. Why *not* red threadlocker, >just for the peace of mind? You can still get it loose without breaking >the 8mm bolts;
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- Joined: Tue Nov 02, 2004 8:00 am
subframe bolt upgrade
Todd at Happy Trails says that that the simpler option, just using stronger
bolts of the same size, is strong enough to hold anything you would most
likely want to carry with their aluminum paniers. That is all they suggest
that you do for the panniers. Happy Trails is one place you can buy the bolts.
At 03:22 PM 2/7/2005 +0000, amigoride wrote:
Don Van Dyke Sacramento, California Moto@... www.intellection.org>Being new to klr's I am probably asking for input on topics that have >been thoroughly discussed already. Thanks for your patience. >I have seen two options for subframe bolt replacement. One simply >replaces the four OEM bolts with a higher grade. The second appears >to involve three bolts by drilling out the two upper bolt threadways >and installing one long upper bolt.Obviously the first option is >easier,cheaper etc . But does this method provide adequate strength >for a 170 lb. rider and gear on rougher terrain? >Can anyone share their experience? I have been told by a couple of >experienced klr 'rs that this is one of the first things I should do >to my new machine.In their words "if they let go it can be ugly". >Thanks gang! >
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subframe bolt upgrade
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "amigoride" wrote:
Many believe just keeping the OEM bolts tight is enough also, I happen to just be getting something else from Jake so I op'd for the bolts that he happen to have. I run 200+ and ride the bike pretty hard off road, yet to see a problem with just upgraded fasteners, but then the OEM seemed fine upon removal also. It's all about piece of mind. Dooden A15 Green Ape> > Being new to klr's I am probably asking for input on topics that have > been thoroughly discussed already. Thanks for your patience. > I have seen two options for subframe bolt replacement. One simply > replaces the four OEM bolts with a higher grade. The second appears > to involve three bolts by drilling out the two upper bolt threadways > and installing one long upper bolt.Obviously the first option is > easier,cheaper etc . But does this method provide adequate strength > for a 170 lb. rider and gear on rougher terrain? > Can anyone share their experience? I have been told by a couple of > experienced klr 'rs that this is one of the first things I should do > to my new machine.In their words "if they let go it can be ugly". > Thanks gang!
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subframe bolt upgrade
In a message dated 2/7/2005 7:40:48 AM Pacific Standard Time,
amigoride@... writes:
Being new to klr's I am probably asking for input on topics that have
been thoroughly discussed already. Thanks for your patience.
I have seen two options for subframe bolt replacement. One simply
replaces the four OEM bolts with a higher grade. The second appears
to involve three bolts by drilling out the two upper bolt threadways
and installing one long upper bolt.Obviously the first option is
easier,cheaper etc . But does this method provide adequate strength
for a 170 lb. rider and gear on rougher terrain?
I've gone the route of replacing the OEM bolts with a higher grade. I'm
running HT panniers, carrying a full touring load as well as a lot of hard off
roading and have yet to see any problems with the higher grade bolts. I use red
Loctite with them to make sure they don't vibrate loose and replace them,
along with all the other frame bolts, every third or fourth year as preventive
maintenance for metal fatigue.
Pat
G'ville, NV
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