I remove the water pump impeller, only about a quart of coolant came out and the reservoir did not go down at all. I put the coolant back into the reservoir thinking the level would drop when I started the KLR650 or when the thermostat opened up but nothing moved. I am looking for a bleeder valve to let air in so the coolant can flow to the water pump. Where is it?
Also, I found a large bolt in the center of a post that is right in front of the starter motor. I removed it thinking it might be the bleeder valve, but a spring popped out. I put it back and returned the bolt. Did I mess anything up?
Thank you!
sdrudolph@...
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duro tires?
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vacuum lock / bleeding coolant
Hi Stephen, the manual lists cooling capicity at 1.3 litres, about the same in US quarts, which I think doesn't include what is held in the plastic reservoir on the right side if the bike. To refill the system you put it directly into the rad after you remove the pressure cap. You should always recheck the antifreeze level in the rad after a heat cycle or two, making sure like any cooling system it is cold before you remove the cap.
The plastic reservoir on the right side of the bike acts as a surge tank to allow the cooling fluid to expand and also to siphon back fluid as needed to keep the rad and engine cooling system full. you need to start out with a fully topped off rad for this to work properly. Also it's a good idea to remove, clean and refill the resevoir tank with fresh fluid whenever you change the fluid in the rad and engine...Have a great day.....Greg
Stephen Rudolph wrote:
I remove the water pump impeller, only about a quart of coolant came out and the reservoir did not go down at all. I put the coolant back into the reservoir thinking the level would drop when I started the KLR650 or when the thermostat opened up but nothing moved. I am looking for a bleeder valve to let air in so the coolant can flow to the water pump. Where is it?
Also, I found a large bolt in the center of a post that is right in front of the starter motor. I removed it thinking it might be the bleeder valve, but a spring popped out. I put it back and returned the bolt. Did I mess anything up?
Thank you!
sdrudolph@...
---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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duro tires?
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jon Neet wrote:
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originals. I like the OEM tires fine for street riding. But I'm also a little low on $$ right now, so am thinking of getting a set of the Duro tires. I can get two tires for like $79.95 including tax (I work at a motorcycle dealership).I'd like tires that are safe on the streets and okay offroad (they don't have to be great at offroad). The Late Jake (R.I.P.) swore by Duro tires. Most people, however, swear *at* them because of their habit of cracking and chunking. They are safe on the street if you take it easy (Jake was no speed demon), and will do some light offroading. I'd ride Kenda 270's or 761's before I rode Duros though (270's if you don't ride fast on the street but want to ride fast offroad, 761's for the other way around). Nowdays I ride the European rubber because it's just plain better than the cheap rubber, though if the dollar keeps falling against the Euro because of the way the U.S. Treasury is printing dollars with the fervent abandon of a Weimar Republic finance minister, I might have to give up that habit because it'll take a wheelbarrow to haul enough dollars to buy one of these Euro-tires in a few years> Its about tire time on my 2005. I can't complain-I've just about reached 10,000 on the

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