klunk... klunk...

DSN_KLR650
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slowepro
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Jul 08, 2007 11:39 am

a doohickey story

Post by slowepro » Sun Jul 08, 2007 12:39 pm

GS vs KLR - when researching these two bikes the first thing I learned about with regards to the KLR was the "doohickey." So yesterday, I was in the local Kawi dealer to check out the new '08s (they had none in stock) and asked if the doohickey issue had been taken care of. The guy responded with, "the what?" He had never heard of the doohickey. Secondly, ss there anyone out there who wishes they had purchased the GS instead?

Spike55
Posts: 267
Joined: Thu May 11, 2006 2:22 pm

a doohickey story

Post by Spike55 » Sun Jul 08, 2007 1:40 pm

GS what? Don R100, A6F
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "slowepro" wrote: > > GS vs KLR - when researching these two bikes the first thing I learned about with regards to > the KLR was the "doohickey." So yesterday, I was in the local Kawi dealer to check out the > new '08s (they had none in stock) and asked if the doohickey issue had been taken care of. > The guy responded with, "the what?" He had never heard of the doohickey. > > Secondly, ss there anyone out there who wishes they had purchased the GS instead? >

Blake Sobiloff
Posts: 1077
Joined: Fri Nov 26, 2004 11:29 pm

a doohickey story

Post by Blake Sobiloff » Sun Jul 08, 2007 1:46 pm

Pretty common that dealers have never heard of the doo. No biggie, though--I wouldn't trust most dealers to change a doo anyway. Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 8, 2007, at 10:38 AM, slowepro wrote: > GS vs KLR - when researching these two bikes the first thing I > learned about with regards to > the KLR was the "doohickey." So yesterday, I was in the local Kawi > dealer to check out the > new '08s (they had none in stock) and asked if the doohickey issue > had been taken care of. > The guy responded with, "the what?" He had never heard of the > doohickey. > > Secondly, ss there anyone out there who wishes they had purchased > the GS instead? > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > Yahoo! Groups Links > > >

Mike
Posts: 260
Joined: Thu Apr 23, 2015 12:45 pm

klunk... klunk...

Post by Mike » Sun Jul 08, 2007 2:51 pm

> > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Tom Zangla" wrote: > > > > Yesterday I adjusted the Do Hickey bolt as I have done before many > > times on my A19 with 10,000.miles. When I started it I heard a > > Klunk Klunk right after the engine started and I left off of the > > starter button. I do not recall hearing this klunk klunk before. > > Could the Do Hickey bolt adjustment cause this or could there > > be something going wrong with the starter? > > Tom > > SW Pennsylvania > Tom, > > How did you adjust it? Only loosen 1/2 turn 1 turn, just enough for > the lever to move? >
If you loosen it too much, it can slide down the shaft and
> then bind out of position when you tighten the bolt. If this happens > the big starter gear can hit the lever when the starter switch is > pressed. This gear only turns when the starter is working. > all the best, > > Mike > Eagle Mfg since 1990
Tom, I rec'd your email - I'll post the reply to the list so someone else that's doing it by the manual can see the info. I understand that you still have the stock parts, and extended warranty. The manual says "loosen the bolt a few turns." If it is loosened and slides down the shaft, it can bind on the shaft and not re-seat properly. This is because the adjustment (clamping) bolt for the lever is not in the middle of the shaft is locates. If this has happened, and you get the knocking noise, you need to remove some parts to check things out. Or... go see the dealer. This might or might not help, as I've heard several stories of difficulties with dealer service areas.... Remove the countershaft cover - 3 bolts, 10mm socket and ratchet. Remove the shift lever, 10mm wrench Remove the bash plate, 3 bolts, 10mm socket and ratchet (if still stock.) Drain the oil, or lay the bike over on the right side far enough the oil won't run out. Pull the green neutral wire loose from the case by the sprocket. Wiggle the wires out of the channel in the case by the sprocket. Remove the bolts holding the outer case, (10?) 8mm socket and ratchet. Carefully pull the case straight out. Watch out for loose parts and gaskets. Don't tear the gasket unless you have a spare. You can now see the adjustment bolt, and where it clamps the bottom edge of the lever, below the rotor. Loosen the bolt and wiggle the lever a bit. You should feel spring tension pushing the bottom edge forward. If not, you have a broken spring. Look for damage on all of the lever you can see. Try to re-seat the lever and gently tighten the bolt. Diagonally up to the right from the rotor are a couple of small gear sets. Remove the one closest to the rotor. There should be a small, thin thrust washer on the inner and outer side of the set. While this set is removed, try to turn the big starter gear behind the rotor clockwise. It should turn without hitting anything. If it hits at this point, you'll need to remove the rotor and replace the balancer lever/hickey. If it doesn't hit, put the gear set back, and assemble in reverse order. You might have to rotate the big gear a bit to allow the gear seat to fully seat, since it was moved. Send me your number, or call me if you get stuck, need more help, etc. all the best, Mike Eagle Mfg since 1990

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