changing a tire

[Norm Keller]

Don, What year is your R100? I haven't ridden or worked on BMW's for a long time but rode some R100's, and some slash series in the 70's and 80's. Neat machines. Does yours use Bing carbs? I seem to remember working on some Bings and that they didn't have drains. Have you considered drilling and adding a couple? Reminiscing, Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Spike55]

It's a 1981 R100 (naked) and yes it has 40mm Bing carbs. Although it requires some work from time to time, the easy access to the valves, spark plugs, and carbs vs. the KLR has spoiled me. The problem with adding an effective drain to the carb bowl is unique to BMW - your feet touch the bottoms of the bowls while riding. This incidental "boot to bowl" contact is more pronounced on the right side since that cylinder sits aft of the left cylinder, and therefore is closer to the right foot peg, which is not staggered to maintain the same clearances on the left side. Although it hasn't happened to me, I've come to the aid of other vintage BMW (Airheads) riders that have lost one of their bowls along the highway because their boot lace pulled the bowl retaining wire / clip back - there she goes - $20 if you can find one on a weekend. They can usually get to a phone and shelter while operating the bike a real "thumper" - WOW! It's also hard to be around these people for very long, inside a room, because their one foot is soaked in gasoline. Don R100, A6F

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Norm Keller" wrote: > > Don, > > What year is your R100? I haven't ridden or worked on BMW's for a long time but rode some R100's, and some slash series in the 70's and 80's. Neat machines. > > Does yours use Bing carbs? I seem to remember working on some Bings and that they didn't have drains. Have you considered drilling and adding a couple? > > Reminiscing, > > Norm > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Mike Truel]

Bing carbs have a wire bale to hold the bottom of the carbs on. Easy to dump out water and dirt. It is important to check the petcock screens occasionally for debris and if the carbs are old they should have late model alcohol resistant floats. The main problem is the latex diaphrams which deteriorate with age. Change them every few years. Carbs must be set equally and there are many ways to do that. Almost idiot proof but not as simple as KLR. Norm Keller wrote: Don, What year is your R100? I haven't ridden or worked on BMW's for a long time but rode some R100's, and some slash series in the 70's and 80's. Neat machines. Does yours use Bing carbs? I seem to remember working on some Bings and that they didn't have drains. Have you considered drilling and adding a couple? Reminiscing, Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Mike Truel, in Oklahoma City USA WOOF (well off older folk) [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Priest" wrote:

> > On 7/4/07, Blake Sobiloff wrote: > > Jim gave you a great set of links on how to change a tire. My

advice

> > would be to practice before you leave the garage. You really

don't

> > Make sure your AMA MowTow is up to date. I've just spent an hour > trying this: > > http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/beadbreaker.html > > to try and break the bead on my rear tire. No luck so far. I

don't

> know how you'd do this in the field by yourself... > > Jim >

Jim, To remove a difficult tire: Others have suggested in the past to ride the tire (in the field) until the bead breaks. Others have suggested that they have done the same in a parking lot/alley at home until the bead breaks. I am not saying I endorse that idea, but I have changed a tire when it was 105F, and after two hours, I took it to a tireshop and they use the hydralic ram to break the bead. If I had to do it again, I would have ridden the bike on a deflated tire to see if it worked. On another note, the last time I put a set of K270's on a KLR, we left the tires sit in the sunshine and they were nice and soft for installation. We also used a generous amount of 'real' bead lube, and then used a Nashbar bike pump and the beads fully seated at 40psi. revmaaatin.