sub frame upgrade>>>>>>>>>>(calling darren clark)

DSN_KLR650
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surfdogs_attic
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2005 11:01 pm

aftermarket rear shock

Post by surfdogs_attic » Sun Mar 19, 2006 8:08 pm

Do any of you have experience with any aftermarket shocks that fit the KLR 650. I have seen the ones that Dual Star sells but I was wondering if there were others. I weigh 225 and I ride moderate trails when offroading........Thanks

Mike Peplinski
Posts: 782
Joined: Wed Jun 09, 2004 8:55 pm

sub frame upgrade>>>>>>>>>>(calling darren clark)

Post by Mike Peplinski » Mon Mar 20, 2006 7:46 pm

Its way too complicated. Just use a higher grade bolt, use locktite and tighten it up. If you're still worried do the drill through bit. That seems to be fool proof.
>From: "Jim" >To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com >Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Sub Frame Upgrade>>>>>>>>>>(Calling Darren Clark) >Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 14:08:47 -0000 > >What say you on this message and subject. Please clarify this for all >of us, if you will. (I think you were the one who did the explaination >on brakes once ~ thought I was reading Kevin Cameron!) > >Thanks > >Jim A17 > > > >--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Peplinski" >wrote: > > > > Hey guys, just so you understand, harder, higher "grade" bolts are not > > necessarily better. My limitted metallurgical knowledge tells me >that the > > standare bolt, a grade 2 (I think) is plenty hard. Just get hit in >the head > > by one. It has a certain amount of carbon in it. This bolt is fine >for many > > applications where a low cost, positive attachment is required. It >is pretty > > vibration and fatigue resistant as well. Understand that carbon is what > > gives steel its "hardness". Lets leave it at that without going too >deeply > > into it. The grade 5 bolt is heat treated to give it additional >hardness on > > the surface. The bolt is "harder" and has a somewhat higher tensile > > (stretch) and yield (bending) strength. If the application calls for a > > harder surface, more resistant to scuffing or nicking, grade 5 may >be OK. > > The grade 8 is actually called an alloy, higher in carbon and is >definitely > > harder, on a Brinell or Rockwell scale (higher tension and yield >strengths) > > but the brittleness is also higher so if the application calls for some > > bending, because some attachments are meant to give a little, the >grade 8 > > bolt will fail sooner than a 2. Grade 8 bolts are also typically >not used > > in a high vibration application because they stress crack. Obviously >the > > frame attachment is not meant to flex. The higher tensile strength of a > > grade 8, or its metric equivelant, 12.5, can be tightened more and >is less > > likely to stretch and come loose. > > > > > > >From: "Robert Melvin" > > >To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > >Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Sub Frame Upgrade > > >Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2006 10:31:22 -0800 > > > > > >Hi, > > > > > >(sorry for the confusion with my emails - Gmail has some features that > > >have caused me some difficulty / confusion - I think I have it taken > > >care of now. This is what I meant to send.) > > > > > >Yes, $35 is a lot of difference - but not if you have to drill a > > >hardened bolt out - especially if you are not doing so at a time / > > >place of your choosing with all the correct tools and the ability / > > >time to go back to the store for more bits, etc... Such an experience > > >will easily cost $35 even without taking into account time, missed > > >plans, and aggravation. > > > > > >I used to have a '72 Volvo with a modified Delco alternator and it > > >would break grade 8 bolts - I finally found a Caterpillar track bolt > > >that was supposed to be something like a grade 11 equivalent - it > > >never broke. > > > > > >However, what I would do though is put a nut on the bolt, slot the > > >thread end of the bolt with a hacksaw or grinder, unscrew the nut > > >(repairs threads a bit) and then use the bolt. On the Volvo, I had > > >access to the slotted end of the bolt after it had broken and I would > > >unscrew it with a straight bladed screwdriver (easy), replace the bolt > > >with the next victim, and drive home with headlights. > > > > > > > > >Archive Quicksearch at: > > >http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html > > >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > > >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > >Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >Archive Quicksearch at: >http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html >Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > >

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