1989 for $1400 ... it was sold!

DSN_KLR650
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scott quillen
Posts: 154
Joined: Wed Apr 27, 2005 10:17 am

1989 for $1400 ... it was sold!

Post by scott quillen » Sun Jan 29, 2006 3:58 am

I'll sell you my 87 with 5000 miles for $2500...sorry, just kidding ;^) Keep looking...you'll find the right one at the right price! Regards, Scott aztecredklr650 wrote: Well guys, It seems that an 89 with 7000 miles is worth $1400...maybe more! I contacted the seller and he told me it was just sold. Only took him 24 hrs to sell it! Seems like the KLR is the latest hot commodity. Bummed out! Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 Yahoo! Groups Links --------------------------------- Bring words and photos together (easily) with PhotoMail - it's free and works with your Yahoo! Mail. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

jerovital
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2006 9:44 am

second hand klr

Post by jerovital » Sun Jan 29, 2006 9:44 am

Hi, I have an 89 KLR that took me all over Mexico before the balancer lever busted, the loose chain wore out all the sprokes, and the bike has been parked since (5 years) A few weeks ago I ran into an 87 model that had been in an accident, and had damaged forks and front wheel, but the engine was fine. I thought it was just what I needed, so I took it home for a couple hundred. I though it would be easy: just take my healthy forks and front tire, install them in the new bike, and ride away. But there's been some problems. 1. After installing forks and wheel on the new bike I noticed that when if I hold the handlebars straight, the front wheel is not straight, its turned 30 degrees to one side! Could that be because I installed it incorrectly? (I thought it was just a mater of putting in the forks, tightening, and then putting the front wheel in, I didn't think any other adjustements were necessary) Is there a chance the crash that damaged the forks also damaged the fork braces? (it seems like too solid a piece to get bent) 2. Stupid question: On a "healthy" KLR, if you remove the rubber hoses that go from gas tank to carburator, and put tank lever on "open" position, does gas drip from the tank? Because it is not dripping from the new bike's tank, but I don't know if there is something stuck there (the bike was parked for 3 years) or that's the way it is supposed to work. 3. Any recomendations on the best procedures to follow to start a KLR engine after its been parked for a number of years? Many thanks in advance for the help -J

Blake Sobiloff
Posts: 1077
Joined: Fri Nov 26, 2004 11:29 pm

second hand klr

Post by Blake Sobiloff » Sun Jan 29, 2006 11:27 am

On Jan 29, 2006, at 7:43 AM, jerovital wrote:
> 1. After installing forks and wheel on the new bike I noticed that > when if I hold the handlebars straight, the front wheel is not > straight, its turned 30 degrees to one side!
With the front wheel in place, loosen the triple clamp bolts a bit (not all the way) and see if you can make the front wheel and handlebars point in the right direction together. It is easy to get the wheel out of alignment with the handlebars if you install the forks without the wheel.
> 2. Stupid question: On a "healthy" KLR, if you remove the rubber > hoses that go from gas tank to carburator, and put tank lever > on "open" position, does gas drip from the tank?
A good condition "tank lever" (petcock) will act like this. The petcock needs vacuum from the engine before it will allow any gas to flow.
> 3. Any recomendations on the best procedures to follow to start a > KLR engine after its been parked for a number of years?
Fresh gas, fresh oil and oil filter, fresh coolant, fresh brake fluid, fresh fork fluid, check the battery water level. Turn the petcock off to prevent the bike from starting and hit the starter for three seconds, wait ten seconds, repeat a couple more times. This will get a little oil circulating and gently get the engine parts moving again. If the previous owner didn't drain the gas from carburetor the pilot circuit is probably varnished and you'll have a very tough time getting it started. You may be looking at having to remove the carb, disassemble, clean, re-assemble and install before the bike will run. Good luck! -- Blake Sobiloff http://sobiloff.typepad.com/> San Jose, CA (USA)

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