www.maddox.xmission.com/

[Glen]

i did my check the other day and i calculated that i needed 2-245 shims and 2-250 shims. i went to the dealer and the mechanic got out the shim box and he had both 245s no problem and one 250 but he didn't seem to have another 250 marked but there were a few "unmarked" shims that he put the digital calipers on and he found one that came up as a 248 he decided that it must be a 250 since it was closer to that than a 245. i said sounds good to me. i payed for them and left when i got home i realized i have 3 marked 245s and one 250 however. what i am wondering is how much is this goin to matter?? since it says 248 on the calipers after all. i did the test where you put them on a flat surface and run your thumbnail along it appears that the mysterious shim is somewhere between the 245 and the 250 that i have that i know for sure are marked it matches up with neither one or the other. my plan is to go ahead and use it as i 250 since it is barely noticably smaller than the 250. the use of this shim will put it on the lose side does this sound like a bad plan?? by the way my vavles were all out of spec by a at least a thou to the tight side of things so i am looking forward to mild performance gains from this adjustment. glenski - 2 months till the snow flys a14

[Bogdan Swider]

the use of this shim will put it on the lose side does this

> sound like a bad plan??

The shims are nothing in-of-themselves. Put them in and see what the clearances are. Bogdan

[rsanders30117]

Everything machined is machined within some sort of tolerance. Nothing is perfect, so I check my shims, both as removed & going in with a micrometer. They generally match the match the marking within +/- 0.0015" but it doesn't hurt to double check. A caliper should be accurate enough but 1" micrometers can be had just as cheap. You're lucking to simply go by & pick some shims up. I have to figure out what I need the order them by the first of the week so they'll be delivered by that Friday.

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Bogdan Swider wrote: > the use of this shim will put it on the lose side does this > > sound like a bad plan?? > > The shims are nothing in-of-themselves. Put them in and see what the > clearances are. > > Bogdan

[Rodney Copeland]

Glenn Bro! Tight valves mean better performance! Loose valves, shim in bucket, mean less performance! This is of course for the KLR, clearance meanin less valve lift! See ya on the other site! Rod,,,,,,AKA Zrod

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Glen" wrote: > i did my check the other day and i calculated that i needed 2-245 > shims and 2-250 shims. i went to the dealer and the mechanic got > out the shim box and he had both 245s no problem and one 250 but he > didn't seem to have another 250 marked but there were a > few "unmarked" shims that he put the digital calipers on and he > found one that came up as a 248 he decided that it must be a 250 > since it was closer to that than a 245. i said sounds good to me. > i payed for them and left when i got home i realized i have 3 marked > 245s and one 250 however. what i am wondering is how much is this > goin to matter?? since it says 248 on the calipers after all. i did > the test where you put them on a flat surface and run your thumbnail > along it appears that the mysterious shim is somewhere between the > 245 and the 250 that i have that i know for sure are marked it > matches up with neither one or the other. my plan is to go ahead > and use it as i 250 since it is barely noticably smaller than the > 250. the use of this shim will put it on the lose side does this > sound like a bad plan?? by the way my vavles were all out of spec by > a at least a thou to the tight side of things so i am looking > forward to mild performance gains from this adjustment. > > glenski - 2 months till the snow flys > a14

[Thor Lancelot Simon]

On Sat, Sep 11, 2004 at 10:58:47PM -0000, Rodney Copeland wrote:

> Glenn Bro! > Tight valves mean better performance!

That really depends on engine RPM, doesn't it?

> Loose valves, shim in bucket, mean less performance! > This is of course for the KLR, clearance meanin less valve lift!

Most people seem to recommend setting the KLR valves to the loose end of the spec. Thor

[Rodney Copeland]

Yup Thor, and I will continue to do so! More clearance equals less lift, doesn't matter what RPM. I just don't want to have to adjust my valves every 2500 miles and will stay with the maximum! Cheers, Rod --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Thor Lancelot Simon wrote:

> On Sat, Sep 11, 2004 at 10:58:47PM -0000, Rodney Copeland wrote: > > Glenn Bro! > > Tight valves mean better performance! > > That really depends on engine RPM, doesn't it? > > > Loose valves, shim in bucket, mean less performance! > > This is of course for the KLR, clearance meanin less valve lift! > > Most people seem to recommend setting the KLR valves to the loose

end of

> the spec. > > Thor

[Devon]

zrod@... wrote:

>Glenn Bro! >Tight valves mean better performance >Loose valves, shim in bucket, mean less performance >

You need to be more specific. If "performance" means top end power and a higher top speed, than you're correct. And you bought the wrong bike. If "performance" means low end torque and off-idle power, like you'd need in the woods or in city traffic, then you WANT the valves set to the outside of the clearance spec. I've read a couple books (mostly racebike and race car fabrication books, Tony Foale, and someone else I can't remember) that mentioned that they would routinely set the valves really loose on very tight tracks, if they were in a spec racing class and couldn't change cams to suit the track. BTW as long as you set the valves somewhere between the tight and loose specs, it should be fine. I set the valves on my A15 to the loose end of spec at 733mi, and didn't have to change a shim until 23,000. Devon

[Glen]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Devon wrote:

> > > zrod@h... wrote: > > >Glenn Bro! > >Tight valves mean better performance > >Loose valves, shim in bucket, mean less performance > > > You need to be more specific. If "performance" means top end power

and a higher top speed, than you're correct. And you bought the wrong bike.

> > If "performance" means low end torque and off-idle power, like

you'd need in the woods or in city traffic, then you WANT the valves set to the outside of the clearance spec. I've read a couple books (mostly racebike and race car fabrication books, Tony Foale, and someone else I can't remember) that mentioned that they would routinely set the valves really loose on very tight tracks, if they were in a spec racing class and couldn't change cams to suit the track.

> > BTW as long as you set the valves somewhere between the tight and

loose specs, it should be fine. I set the valves on my A15 to the loose end of spec at 733mi, and didn't have to change a shim until 23,000.

> > Devon

hey all i very much agree with those who believe in setting them loose. i have done so and i noticed a much better difference in performance off idle and low end torque which i never had before. keeping in mind that all of my valves where not even in spec they were soo tight. it is wonderful they are happy tappy vavles now and mine runs way better than my cousins XS650 and his is a twin. glenski a14

[Glen]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Devon wrote:

> > > zrod@h... wrote: > > >Glenn Bro! > >Tight valves mean better performance > >Loose valves, shim in bucket, mean less performance > > > You need to be more specific. If "performance" means top end power

and a higher top speed, than you're correct. And you bought the wrong bike.

> > If "performance" means low end torque and off-idle power, like

you'd need in the woods or in city traffic, then you WANT the valves set to the outside of the clearance spec. I've read a couple books (mostly racebike and race car fabrication books, Tony Foale, and someone else I can't remember) that mentioned that they would routinely set the valves really loose on very tight tracks, if they were in a spec racing class and couldn't change cams to suit the track.

> > BTW as long as you set the valves somewhere between the tight and

loose specs, it should be fine. I set the valves on my A15 to the loose end of spec at 733mi, and didn't have to change a shim until 23,000.

> > Devon

hey all i very much agree with those who believe in setting them loose. i have done so and i noticed a much better difference in performance off idle and low end torque which i never had before. keeping in mind that all of my valves where not even in spec they were soo tight. it is wonderful they are happy tappy vavles now and mine runs way better than my cousins XS650 and his is a twin. glenski a14

[Allen Maxfield]

Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 08:14:38 -0700 From: Chris Krok Subject: NKLR Friday Funnies Good morning, folks. If you are easily offended, do not go to http://www.maddox.xmission.com/ However, if you have a sense of humor (Zach, you'd probably enjoy this), do go. The page about Websense (first one listed) is great. There's also a comment in the "Hate Mail" section (any website that needs a "hate mail" section usually kicks arse) about only moving your left pinky 7/16 of an inch to turn off the caps lock. Might have to post the picture to the list from time to time. Oh yeah. It's Friday, and I'm Chris from Big Cee Engineering. Buy my $hit! http://www.bigcee.com Krokko out! ------------------------------------------------------- Krok---I only had a couple of minutes to read this site this morning....Terrific, thanks for sharing. Allen Maxfield Forestville, Sonoma County, California [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]