re; supertrapp idsii repack

[James Sherlock]

>>>OK, my SuperTrapp is getting pretty loud, so I bought some packing last night and intend to work on it this weekend. The problem is, I've never done it before, and am not real sure what's involved. I thought SuperTrapp would have at least some info on there website, but they don't. Any tips from the gurus on the list?

First off, did you get Supertrapp's Quiet Core packing? If not, I recommend that you do so. Standard packing will blow out very quickly. The Supertrapp Quiet Core packing comes prepackaged in a high temperature canvas style bag with attached adhesive to simplify the repack process. It is much neater, much easier, and lasts considerably longer. Here is my procedure: 1) Remove muffler can from bike. Be sure not to lose the little rivet under the clamp that holds the muffler to the S-bend pipe. 2) Remove the mufflers end cap 3) Drill out the left-most rivet holding the IDSII badge to the can. The tail of the rivet will prevent you from removing the inner core. Be sure to use a drill bit that is sharp and is no larger than the rivet shank. The safest way is to start small and work upward in sizes. 4) Remove the screw on the bottom side of the can. This holds the inner core in place. 5) Remove the discs. 6) Place the can on a flat wooden surface, in a vertical position with the exhaust/disc opening downward, inlet side upward. 7) Use a small diameter dowel, or old hammer handle, to drive out the inner core. Look inside the inlet side. You can see the inner core sleeve inserted inside the aluminum can. Place the dowel end on the end of one of the inner core sleeves and tap the dowel with a mallet to break it loose and drive it downward. Do this on all of the inner core flanges, as equally as possible to prevent binding. Use the lightest taps possible to avoid deforming the material. DO NOT place any object against the screen that you can see down inside the inlet opening. Doing so will destroy your inner core. Once you get the core started, it is usually fairly straightforward. Continue round robin tapping until the inner core is flush with the exhaust end of the can. 8) Place the can on some blocks so that you can continue to drive out the inner core the rest of the way. It doesn't take much to get the rest out. 9) Clean off the core and check for any damage and/or broken welds. 10) Clean out the muffler can as best as you can. 11) Wrap the muffler packing around the core. Be sure to slide the packing down inside the end collar. When you see it, you will know what I mean. 12) Wrap the packing as tightly as you can around the inner core. If you use Supertrapp's Quiet Core Re-pack, it is fairly simple. If you stick with standard packing, you may need a helper to wrap masking tape around the applied packing while you hold it tightly in place. If you use standard packing, Supertrapp recommends wrapping the entire surface of the packing tightly with a single layer of tape. Remember, the core and can are almost a complete interference fit, which translates into you needing to have the packing material as tight as possible to reduce outside diameter. 13) On the interior of the inlet side of the can, slather copious amounts of never sieze on the inner soulder and inlet sleeve. Also apply some never seize to the outer surface of the inlet sleeve of the inner core. Try to keep as much as possible off of the packing. 14) Remember that screw you removed in step 4? Line up the hole in the core, with the hole in the can, vertically. Then carefully press the inner core and packing straight into the muffler can ensuring that you keep these two holes lined up. It is a real beach to try and turn the core once it is installed into the can. 15) Once you have the core pressed in far enough that the two screw holes line up, you are there. To make things simple, re-install the screw now. I use loctite. 16) Clean up all the excess never seize from the inlet side of the can and sleeve. A good portion will have squeezed out. You will want clean surfaces on the inside so that your high-temp RTV or other exhaust sealant will adhere when you remount the can on the S-bend pipe. 17) Re-install the discs using copious amounts of Supertrapp's high-temp copper colored never seize on the bolts. I have seen some of this stuff in auto parts stores, so check there if you don't have any. Do not install the bolts dry. You will seize them next time you try to remove them and you may break off the nuts that they screw in to. Do not over tighten either. This can strip the bolts or break the nuts loose from the core. 18) Re-install a rivet in the IDSII badge. If you remove the badge all together, still install a rivet with some high-temp RTV to prevent soot blowing out the hole. 19) Re-install the end cap. To reduce noise and prevent fender marring from heat and soot, I recommend Supertrapp's down-turned tip. 20) Re-install the muffler onto the bike using the rivet and your preferred method of sealing the muffler inlet and S-bend pipe joining. Do not completely tighten the clamp until you have bolted the can to the bike's frame. 21) Thoroughly clean the muffler can off all oils, never seize, and excess sealant. If you don't, these materials will stain the aluminum can permanently once it has become hot from being run. I'm pretty sure I did not leave anything out. If you get stuck, feel free to contact me. Hope this helps. Jim Smithville-Texas [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]