tire pressure suggestions

[dschoppe2000]

Hi all, How common are water pump seal failures in the latest KLRs? I'm getting ready for a X-country trip in June (NC to NM, CO, and UT) on my new '03, and I'm wondering if I should purchase spare seals and gaskets to carry? Could the seal be replaced on the side of the road or parking lot if need be? Thanks, Don

[Tony Cornett]

Carry one. TC

----- Original Message ----- From: "dschoppe2000" To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Friday, April 18, 2003 5:25 AM Subject: [DSN_klr650] Water pump seals > Hi all, > > How common are water pump seal failures in the latest KLRs? I'm > getting ready for a X-country trip in June (NC to NM, CO, and UT) on > my new '03, and I'm wondering if I should purchase spare seals and > gaskets to carry? Could the seal be replaced on the side of the > road or parking lot if need be? > > Thanks, > Don > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

[Allan Patton]

Don, I don't believe you need to worry about the water pump seal. It's my understanding that they start to drip and don't dump the coolant all at once. Search the archives for "water pump seal". There was some discussion about it around the first week of November. My water pump seal started to drip when it was parked for ten day in October, not much but I started to keep a drip pan under it. Added distilled water to the reservoir once during the winter. Now that the weather has warmed up, it has stopped dripping, but I can smell the coolant once in a while. It's been about 5,000 miles since it started to leak. I have been procrastinating doing this job because I've heard that it is very easy to break the pump shaft. Allan A14 60,000 miles

----- Original Message ----- From: "dschoppe2000" To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Friday, April 18, 2003 7:25 AM Subject: [DSN_klr650] Water pump seals > Hi all, > > How common are water pump seal failures in the latest KLRs? I'm > getting ready for a X-country trip in June (NC to NM, CO, and UT) on > my new '03, and I'm wondering if I should purchase spare seals and > gaskets to carry? Could the seal be replaced on the side of the > road or parking lot if need be? > > Thanks, > Don > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

[Devon Jarvis]

I replaced mine two months ago. You need to drain the coolant, and if you have problems "prying out" the old mechanical seal (like I did) you'll have to remove the entire clutch cover to punch it out from the other side. Theoretically it could be done in a parking lot. BUT- You NEED an accurate inch-pound torque wrench, and a good bullsh*t detector so you don't break the shaft waiting for a click. Set the wrench, and tighten something else (like a footpeg bolt) and see if it makes sense. DO NOT TRY TO PULL THE IMPELLER STRAIGHT OFF THE SHAFT! There is a tiny o-ring inside the inpeller that will be destroyed. You must spin off the impeller like it's a nut to avoid damaging the o-ring. I pulled the entire thing apart, replaced the oil seal and mechanical seal, then buggered the o-ring and it still wept coolant and when I put it back together. I replaced the o-ring a week later, and now it's fine. I rode around with the seal leaking for 5,000mi or so, probably could have ridden another 5,000 but I got tired of smelling coolant. Devon A15

> > Hi all, > > How common are water pump seal failures in the latest KLRs? I'm > getting ready for a X-country trip in June (NC to NM, CO, and UT) on > my new '03, and I'm wondering if I should purchase spare seals and > gaskets to carry? Could the seal be replaced on the side of the > road or parking lot if need be? > > Thanks, > Don >

[mrmooseisloose]

I don't know how it would be "easy to break" the pump shaft, or as the manuel calls it, the impeller shaft. The nut on the end of it only gets 7 ft/lbs or torque. I did mine 2 months ago and never worried about that. Now I did have my side cover off(as the manuel says) to do this and let me just say that after about 2 solid hours of punching holes, making cuts and chiseling the hell out of my old seal (the mechanical seal diaphram) to get it out of the cover, I can't even imagine how you would get it out with the cover on. Maybe mine was an exception and maybe you guys know a short cut. Before you do this fix there are 2 very simple things that you NEED to know before you do this or you can very easily screw it up. 1 is after taking off the water pump cover and then the impeller behind it (don't lose the shim behind the impeller) you will see the second part of the mechanical seal. It is a round white ceramic washer snapped snugly into a black rubber ring/seal. As someone already mentioned you need to take that off of the shaft like it was a nut (turning it counter clockwise to take it off and clockwise to put it on. If you don't you can screw up the rubber when you rub it against the threads of the shaft. 2 is you can't touch that ceramic with your bare skin. The oils in your body can get on it and then it will not seal and you will have a leak again believe it or not. Other than that it was a piece of cake to do and I have not had 1 drop of coolant leak out of the system. The manuel also says to put a little coolant on the ceramic part to "lube it" before you put the new one on. This way when you fire up the motor your sure to not having it rub dry on the diaphram until coolant can get on to it real good. MrMoose A8(Barbie and Ken special)

[Devon Jarvis]

mrmooseisloose wrote:

> > 1 is after taking off the water pump cover and then the impeller > behind it (don't lose the shim behind the impeller) you will see the > second part of the mechanical seal. It is a round white ceramic > washer snapped snugly into a black rubber ring/seal. As someone > already mentioned you need to take that off of the shaft like it was > a nut (turning it counter clockwise to take it off and clockwise to > put it on. If you don't you can screw up the rubber when you rub it > against the threads of the shaft. >

I said that you need to remove the IMPELLER like it's a nut, there's a tiny o-ring inside it that gets wrecked by pulling it straight off. Devon

[bkowalca]

Any suggestions what tire pressure in should use next weekend? The bike has a new Maxxis M6006 front and back. I am going to be riding about an hour to the trail ride on paved roads and will have about 30psi in both tires. I want to air down for the trails which will be about 90% single track in sandy soil. There shouldn't be a big rock sections on this ride by I do expect a few big logs in the way that might give the front end a good smack as I try to get over them. I can air up again for the ride home. I am thinking about 20psi in the back, maybe 18psi in the front? Here was the ride a couple of years ago. http://www.geocities.com/ahopup/beaglebash.html