sound from valves(pinging, lugging)

[boundertom]

I had replaced my doohickey last year, but yesterday, I pulled the covers to check on the spring and chain clearance. My chain is only .008" from the case. I would like to grind off some of the boss, but obviously don't want a lot of metal shavings/dust getting in the engine. I do have a Dremel, and I was thinking of trying to hold a shop vac nozzle in close to the cutting action. Actually, I would have an assistant hold the shop vac nozzle. I just wondered what techniques others have used? Devon's chisel approach sounds pretty scary to me! With my luck, I would crack the case or something! As far as the spring, my original spring measured about 42mm installed. It also measures 42 mm removed! I have ordered the 37mm Eagle spring, which should last me a while- until the next developements in this saga! BTW, my engine has 12,700 miles. Thanks for any thoughts! Tom

[Guy B. Young II - COG Tech. Ed.]

Use a thin, sharp, chisel and take slow, deliberate strokes with the hammer. Don't try and hog it out all at once. Guy A16 At 01:20 AM 3/31/03 -0000, boundertom wrote:

>I had replaced my doohickey last year, but yesterday, I pulled the >covers to check on the spring and chain clearance. My chain is >only .008" from the case. I would like to grind off some of the >boss, but obviously don't want a lot of metal shavings/dust getting >in the engine. I do have a Dremel, and I was thinking of trying to >hold a shop vac nozzle in close to the cutting action. Actually, I >would have an assistant hold the shop vac nozzle. I just wondered >what techniques others have used? Devon's chisel approach sounds >pretty scary to me! With my luck, I would crack the case or >something!

[Devon Jarvis]

http://www.devonjarvisphoto.com/posted/KLR650/doohickey/ Just shave 1/2mm at a time. Worked great, no really small bits, and my scheme for keeping the bits out of the motor worked well also. I don't think the shop vac will get them all,when a dremel is turning 12,000rpm the bits of aluminum and grit will be moving too fast. When I said "hammer", I was using a dead-blow hammer with a seriously choked-up grip. The case is soft, just don't take too big a bite and you'll be fine. You can always chicken out and go for the dremel if you decide the chisel is too scary. But yes, the chisel needs to be SHARP! Devon Guy B. Young II - COG Tech. Ed. wrote:

>Use a thin, sharp, chisel and take slow, deliberate strokes with the >hammer. Don't try and hog it out all at once. > >Guy >A16 > > > >

[klr6501995]

What is the difference bewtween "lugging" the engine and the engine "pinging". Both feel like it would be very hard on the bearings. According to my Tach. pinging and lugging happen around the same rpms on hard throttle. In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, kdxkawboy@a... wrote:

> Depends on how the Octane is measured. By the typical (RON+MON)/2

you only

> need 87 octane, which is what is pumped for regular gas at the

majority of

> gas stations. If the pump displays a label saying the Octane is

strictly the

> Research Octane Number (RON) then you need at least 91 octane. I've

run

> nearly 72,000 miles from sea level to 9000' feet and have never had

my KLR

> ping on regular gas. > > Pat > G'ville, NV > > > In a message dated 2003-03-30 8:20:54 AM Pacific Standard Time, > dooden@y... writes: > > > > > Meybee I should check the owners manual.. I thought I read it

said

> > minimun 92 Octane or something close.. > > > > On a 6 gallon tank a few extra cents is no biggy to me, so I use

the

> > 93 Octane mostly it just seems to run better on the KLR. > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[klr6501995]

Done both of my motors with the dremel. Used the reverse conical bit. You absolutely do not want to use a abrasive stone or wheel. Bad bad if it gets in the motor. Steel and aliminium dust in your motor is not near as bad. Cover everything with aliminium foil. Use a high speed steel bit. Have the idler out of the way of course. Note how deep the screw hole is; in that boss you are grinding. Go slow. I have two motors cause I know first hand how brittle that crankcase cover is. You see that casting seam that goes around inside your case. Yea, mine cracked in my first attempt to do the metal removal. Them screws holting the chain guides in; Their Loctited in from the factory. The one by the idler. My case is cracked in that seam. Not good. Be careful.

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Devon Jarvis wrote: > http://www.devonjarvisphoto.com/posted/KLR650/doohickey/ > > Just shave 1/2mm at a time. Worked great, no really small bits, and my > scheme for keeping the bits out of the motor worked well also. I don't > think the shop vac will get them all,when a dremel is turning 12,000rpm > the bits of aluminum and grit will be moving too fast. > > When I said "hammer", I was using a dead-blow hammer with a seriously > choked-up grip. The case is soft, just don't take too big a bite and > you'll be fine. You can always chicken out and go for the dremel if you > decide the chisel is too scary. But yes, the chisel needs to be SHARP! > > Devon > > > > > Guy B. Young II - COG Tech. Ed. wrote: > > >Use a thin, sharp, chisel and take slow, deliberate strokes with the > >hammer. Don't try and hog it out all at once. > > > >Guy > >A16 > > > > > > > >