tips how to swap motors out ???

[Combat_Tourer]

or whatever you call it. I am in Santiago Chile. I ve discovered that the seal surrounding the drive spline from the transmission is leaking. Can someone help here. 1. how hard is it to replace this seal. 2. How critical is it to replace this seal. 3. Is the seal leaking a precurser to more damages ahead? Any and all replies welcome. It is sunday here and the cafe is closing, otherwise I d go into greater detail. Thank you all. Todd Please reply with cc: boy_lurker@...

[Devon Jarvis]

If the seal goes REALLY bad, you can lose a lot of oil very quickly and damage the motor. I have replaced the countershaft seal on an SR500 before, using a very sharp finishing nail, a sheet metal screw, and an automotive dent puller. You (carefully) punch 3mm deep holes in the metal portion of the seal using the nail, around the circumference of the seal. Then use the screw mounted in the dent puller to thread into the holes and tap the seal out bit by bit, moving around as you go. Look for a large socket, or PVC pipe fitting, to use as a driver for the new seal. You'll need the seal, the collar, and the o-ring that goes between the shaft and the collar. Devon "Combat_Tourer " wrote:

> or whatever you call it. I am in Santiago Chile. > > I ve discovered that the seal surrounding the drive spline from the > transmission is leaking. > > Can someone help here. > > 1. how hard is it to replace this seal. > 2. How critical is it to replace this seal. > 3. Is the seal leaking a precurser to more damages ahead? > > Any and all replies welcome. It is sunday here and the cafe is > closing, otherwise I d go into greater detail. > > Thank you all. > > Todd > Please reply with cc: boy_lurker@...

[klr6501995]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Combat_Tourer " wrote:

> or whatever you call it. I am in Santiago Chile. > > I ve discovered that the seal surrounding the drive spline from the > transmission is leaking. > > Can someone help here. > > 1. how hard is it to replace this seal. > 2. How critical is it to replace this seal. > 3. Is the seal leaking a precurser to more damages ahead? > > Any and all replies welcome. It is sunday here and the cafe is > closing, otherwise I d go into greater detail. > > Thank you all. > > Todd > Please reply with cc: boy_lurker@y...

It is critical to replace the seal. The oil is forced under pressure into your counter shaft bearings. Like Devon said you can loose a lot of oil quickly. I lost 3/4 qt in 15 miles. I have changed a the seal twice using this method. Remove sprocket. Turn motor on and Put it in gear. the oil pressure will push out the collar that is between the seal and shaft. Get ready. when the collar pops out turn off the motor. you now have a mess of oil on the floor and the collar can be removed by fingers. there should be a oring on the shaft. back in there under the seal. maybe a bit further back. do not take off the oring unless you have a new one. The case does not have a shoulder. Repeat the case does not have a shoulder so you can easily over drive the new seal. This does make seal removal easy. tap one side in. tipping the seal over. Grap it with needle nose pliers or a hook. Remember since there is no shoulder. when you tap the one side of seal and it stops. don't force it further. you will be hitting the seal of the bearings then. No need to dent that seal. your milage will vary according to the depth of the seal. some seals are one and two mm. deeper. Devon mentioned useing screws. this also works and is a very common method.

[Combat Tourer]

--- Devon Jarvis wrote:

> If the seal goes REALLY bad, you can lose a lot of > oil very quickly and damage the motor. > > I have replaced the countershaft seal on an SR500 > before, using a very sharp finishing nail, a sheet > metal screw, and an > automotive dent puller. You (carefully) punch 3mm > deep holes in the metal portion of the seal using > the nail, around the > circumference of the seal. Then use the screw > mounted in the dent puller to thread into the holes > and tap the seal out bit by > bit, moving around as you go. Look for a large > socket, or PVC pipe fitting, to use as a driver for > the new seal. > > You'll need the seal, the collar, and the o-ring > that goes between the shaft and the collar. > > Devon

Devon, thanks for the input. I need clarification as to why I need the collar and o-ring. As I understand from others that have replied to me, I can remove the seal from the outside of the crankcase. From Kawasakis diagrams, the collar appears to surround the seal and the o-ring completes the seal between the collar and the driveshaft. Does your method force these items away from the case? I need this clarification and affirmation that all of these methods will work, and ALL of the parts are necessary. I want to be sure and order ALL of the correct parts while searching for a local mechanic (with a decent set of tools). This problem is a trip-stopper for me unless it gets fixed. So any minute detail or other anecdotal advice is very much appreciated before I begin. Thanks, Todd...hailing from (expensive) Chile __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com

[Conall O'Brien]

maybe you just need a new countershaft retainer to keep things together? Oil will leak if your sprocket is not in place. been there done that. Conall-take a step back

>From: Combat Tourer >To: jarvisd@..., KLR650 group DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> >Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Urgent: In Chile with a bad Driven seal >Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 05:39:58 -0800 (PST) > > >--- Devon Jarvis wrote: > > If the seal goes REALLY bad, you can lose a lot of > > oil very quickly and damage the motor. > > > > I have replaced the countershaft seal on an SR500 > > before, using a very sharp finishing nail, a sheet > > metal screw, and an > > automotive dent puller. You (carefully) punch 3mm > > deep holes in the metal portion of the seal using > > the nail, around the > > circumference of the seal. Then use the screw > > mounted in the dent puller to thread into the holes > > and tap the seal out bit by > > bit, moving around as you go. Look for a large > > socket, or PVC pipe fitting, to use as a driver for > > the new seal. > > > > You'll need the seal, the collar, and the o-ring > > that goes between the shaft and the collar. > > > > Devon > >Devon, thanks for the input. > >I need clarification as to why I need the collar and >o-ring. As I understand from others that have replied >to me, I can remove the seal from the outside of the >crankcase. From Kawasakis diagrams, the collar >appears to surround the seal and the o-ring completes >the seal between the collar and the driveshaft. > >Does your method force these items away from the case? > >I need this clarification and affirmation that all of >these methods will work, and ALL of the parts are >necessary. I want to be sure and order ALL of the >correct parts while searching for a local mechanic >(with a decent set of tools). > >This problem is a trip-stopper for me unless it gets >fixed. So any minute detail or other anecdotal advice >is very much appreciated before I begin. > >Thanks, >Todd...hailing from (expensive) Chile >

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[Zachariah Mully]

On Mon, 2003-01-13 at 08:39, Combat Tourer wrote:

> Devon, thanks for the input. > > I need clarification as to why I need the collar and > o-ring. As I understand from others that have replied > to me, I can remove the seal from the outside of the > crankcase. From Kawasakis diagrams, the collar > appears to surround the seal and the o-ring completes > the seal between the collar and the driveshaft. >

Todd- You're right, if you can get the metal collar out (with vise-grips or something) you should be able to get a hooked nail or something in behind the seal to pop it out. Or use a Devon-type method, it really doesn't matter at this point what happens to the seal as long as you can get it out and replace it. And there isn't much behind the seal, except for the shaft o-ring, that you have to be careful of... Also, I don't know what year your KLR is, but if it's pre-96, then Jakes countershaft retainer and sprocket shim kit are HIGHLY recommended. This setup replaces the crap stamped steel retainer and prevents CS-spline damage.

> Does your method force these items away from the case? > > I need this clarification and affirmation that all of > these methods will work, and ALL of the parts are > necessary. I want to be sure and order ALL of the > correct parts while searching for a local mechanic > (with a decent set of tools). >

All you need to worry about is having a new seal and o-ring on hand. It doesn't matter a bit *how* you get the old seal out, if you destroy it in the process, big deal, the goal is to get the new one installed.

> This problem is a trip-stopper for me unless it gets > fixed. So any minute detail or other anecdotal advice > is very much appreciated before I begin.

Yes, it most definitely is a trip stopper, I think the failure of this seal was the cause of Mariola's engine failure.

> Thanks, > Todd...hailing from (expensive) Chile

Good luck man, let us know how it turns out. Z DC A5 A11

[James L. Miller Jr.]

Notice I said earlier in the letter I did removed it twice. I removed it the second time and DIDN"T use the towel. Jeese, slip up just once and they're all over you!! millerized (with scratched frame rails, scratched PD Nerfs and scratched Acerbis fork protectors) Scars are like tattoo's, just better stories behind them. --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Zachariah Mully wrote:

> On Mon, 2003-01-13 at 12:44, James L. Miller Jr. wrote: > > Putting it back in using one towel on the frame rails to > > prevent scratching them, > > > millerized > > > > What!? Who are you and what have you done with the

real "millerized"?

> > Z > DC > A5 > A11