pannier location

[Krgrife@aol.com]

In a message dated 12/13/02 1:16:38 PM Pacific Standard Time, bSwider@... writes: << I was wondering that myself. It seems like an obvious solution. Anyone have an opinion ? >> Bill Rose at Zen Products has a 37mm spring (3mm less than stock) that was designed for that purpose. I also found that I could shorten the spring I got from Jake by slightly re-radiusing the end loops. Ended up with the same 37mm length. Kurt Grife

[Bogdan Swider]

Good to know, Kurt. Thanks, Bogdan

> ---------- > From: Krgrife@... > Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 2:54 PM > To: Bogdan Swider; DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Shorter Balancer Spring > > In a message dated 12/13/02 1:16:38 PM Pacific Standard Time, > bSwider@... writes: > > Anyone > have an opinion ? >> > > Bill Rose at Zen Products has a 37mm spring (3mm less than stock) that > was > designed for that purpose. I also found that I could shorten the spring > I > got from Jake by slightly re-radiusing the end loops. Ended up with the > same > 37mm length. > Kurt Grife > >

[pete88chester]

I have just finished the installation of a Sagebrush Machine Shop doohickey & balancer spring. I found the balancer chain wore or stretched to the limit & got it replaced under warranty. I have submitted previous Posts, #72326 & #72390 on what I found. Here is the problem you may have with the use of a shorter tension spring. When I pulled the covers to install the new doohickey I found that the stock Kawi doohickey was about 5 mm from the end of its full travel. The new doohickey from Jake would provide about 10 mm more travel. I also found that the stock Kawi spring was completely relaxed, no longer capable of rotating the eccentric shaft to push the idler sprocket against the chain. Jake's spring is slightly shorter, by 1 mm & did provide a little tension on the mechanism. So a shorter spring would provide the tension needed to move the doohickey to the end of its travel, if short enough. But there is a problem. The chain on my engine, in its stretched state, was only about 0.006" away from rubbing on the crank case just below the idler sprocket (at the bolt hole boss for one of the inner case mounting screws). So a shorter spring, to utilize the full travel of the doohickey, Jake's or Kawasaki's, would for the last part of the travel cause an interference problem. If you did use a shorter spring you would need to grind off some of the boss below the idler sprocket. This would probable not be a problem since the bolt hole in the boss does not extend into the area below the idler sprocket. I hope this is kind of clear. It's late & I have to go to sleep. Pete A16

[Lazerus2000]

From: imperial-4776@...

> Subject: Side Panniers. > > > I was just given these side panniers and rear rack set up: > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Oregon_DSR/files/Pdrm0115.jpg > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Oregon_DSR/files/Pdrm0114.jpg > > They are pretty well made and seem good and strudy, but I find them to > sit slightly to forward, I want to move them back 3 to 4 inches, but the > indcator lights are in the way. Anyone know of a bracket that moves the > lights further back ? .. How do the Happy Trail panniers compare in > postion on the bike ? ... > > And before anyone asks .. YES .. I will be changing the colour ... > hammerite grey/silver should look good. > > TIA > Dave > Salem Oregon > PS .. Thanks Gary A.

My advice to you is to keep the loads as low down and as far forward as you can. Moving those boxes further back might do some NOT-SO-GOOD things. Those panniers look like surplus 50 Cal ammo boxes. Sturdy is one word ... HEAVY is another. Kawasaki rates the rear rack for 10 Kg = 22 lbs. My guess is those boxes and rack weigh in at about 20 lbs?? Placing a heavy load on the rear rack, up high and far back, DOES adversely effect handling. Right now I am running with a big duffle full of tools lashed on to my rear rack, and I can feel it - especially at slow speeds and when flipping the ass end around AT SPEED through switchbacks. One otheR thing you might want to consider - the KLR has a bad habit of eating the top subframe bolts. Adding that much weight that far back will increase the leverage on these bolts, so you definitely want to go to the 12.9 grade bolts here.