kilimanjaro jackets for sale

[Tom Baumen]

I need some suggestions. I have found a real beater for low low bucks. It has been womped pretty good. It runs great but some one bounced it off a rock with out a skid plate and knocked off one of the case fastening bolts and the part of the case it threads into. The result is a leak when the motor cools down. When it is running and hot it does not leak but when allowed to cool it begins to leak. The current soon to be previous owner has tried cleaning up the cases and JB welding the area and he says it works for a while and then begins to leak again. So I can live with it as a beater but can any one suggest an epoxy other then JB weld that might solve this problem for a little longer then 3 months... like forever? The bike is not worth taking apart and rebuilding as it would require both the main cases or welding of the current cases. I know when you go into a motor you always find more than you thought you would and the repair could easily cost more than the bike. I guess I can just haul oil around with me because it really isn't all that bad of a leak..it stops after about an ounce........ I could just leave it running forever? Tom B

[Devon Jarvis]

Try PC-7, I'm told it resists oil well and expands/contracts at just about the same rate as cast aluminum. I know a guy who knows a guy (yeah, yeah) who repaired the cases on a RD350 this way, it was supposed to be temporary but since it held he just keeps riding it. Before you re-repair the area, clean it with denatured alcohol, get it nice and hot with a propane torch, then clean it with alcohol again. This should leave the area clean enough for a good bond- the castings are kind of porous and residual oil could have caused the old epoxy to fail. Make sure the cases are warm but not hot, and absolutely clean. Another option is "Marine-Tex" epoxy, but I would try the PC-7 first. Devon Tom Baumen wrote:

> > I need some suggestions. I have found a real beater for low low bucks. It has been womped > pretty good. It runs great but some one bounced it off a rock with out a skid plate and > knocked off one of the case fastening bolts and the part of the case it threads into. The > result is a leak when the motor cools down. When it is running and hot it does not leak > but when allowed to cool it begins to leak. > The current soon to be previous owner has tried cleaning up the cases and JB welding the > area and he says it works for a while and then begins to leak again. So I can live with it > as a beater but can any one suggest an epoxy other then JB weld that might solve this > problem for a little longer then 3 months... like forever?

[Zachariah Mully]

I also think that the main problem will be getting sufficient tack on the cases. Perhaps roughing up the area with some sandpaper would help, but I'd be more in favor of splitting the cases and epoxying/welding both sides (which I am going to try with mine). Obviously something you don't want to do, but I bet that repair would last longer than an external patch. I don't know which bolt it is, but the other thing I'd be worried about is your ability to tighten it sufficiently to hold the cases together. I doubt that one bolt is going to make much if any difference, but you might start to see it leaking from between the case halves. I wonder if the expansion of the metal while running would help prevent the formation of a leak between the case halves? Z DC

On Wed, 2002-09-11 at 13:01, Devon Jarvis wrote: > Try PC-7, I'm told it resists oil well and expands/contracts at just > about the same rate as cast aluminum. I know a guy who knows a guy > (yeah, yeah) who repaired the cases on a RD350 this way, it was supposed > to be temporary but since it held he just keeps riding it. > > Before you re-repair the area, clean it with denatured alcohol, get it > nice and hot with a propane torch, then clean it with alcohol again. > This should leave the area clean enough for a good bond- the castings > are kind of porous and residual oil could have caused the old epoxy to > fail. > > Make sure the cases are warm but not hot, and absolutely clean. Another > option is "Marine-Tex" epoxy, but I would try the PC-7 first. > > Devon > >

[Arden Kysely]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., Devon Jarvis wrote: Another option is "Marine-Tex" epoxy, but I would try the PC-7 first. > > Devon I used Marine-Tex on the cases of my '71 SL100 way back when and it worked great. Haven't seen the stuff around lately, though. Devon's right about cleaning the area--nothing will stick to oil. __Arden

[Tom Baumen]

I may eventually spit the cases and do a proper repair but until I establish it as a good runner I don't want to invest the time and money. A good welder can repair what was broken off. For now the glue will have to do

----- Original Message ----- From: "Zachariah Mully" To: "Devon Jarvis" Cc: "Tom Baumen" ; "KLR650 group" DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2002 10:56 AM Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] KLR EpoxyNKLR > > I also think that the main problem will be getting sufficient tack on > the cases. Perhaps roughing up the area with some sandpaper would help, > but I'd be more in favor of splitting the cases and epoxying/welding > both sides (which I am going to try with mine). Obviously something you > don't want to do, but I bet that repair would last longer than an > external patch. > > I don't know which bolt it is, but the other thing I'd be worried about > is your ability to tighten it sufficiently to hold the cases together. I > doubt that one bolt is going to make much if any difference, but you > might start to see it leaking from between the case halves. I wonder if > the expansion of the metal while running would help prevent the > formation of a leak between the case halves? > > Z > DC > > On Wed, 2002-09-11 at 13:01, Devon Jarvis wrote: > > Try PC-7, I'm told it resists oil well and expands/contracts at just > > about the same rate as cast aluminum. I know a guy who knows a guy > > (yeah, yeah) who repaired the cases on a RD350 this way, it was supposed > > to be temporary but since it held he just keeps riding it. > > > > Before you re-repair the area, clean it with denatured alcohol, get it > > nice and hot with a propane torch, then clean it with alcohol again. > > This should leave the area clean enough for a good bond- the castings > > are kind of porous and residual oil could have caused the old epoxy to > > fail. > > > > Make sure the cases are warm but not hot, and absolutely clean. Another > > option is "Marine-Tex" epoxy, but I would try the PC-7 first. > > > > Devon > > > > > >

[ron criswell]

I have always found Marine - Tex in sailboat supply stores which I use on boats. Didn't know it would work on KLR cases. Criswell Arden Kysely wrote:

> --- In DSN_klr650@y..., Devon Jarvis wrote: > Another option is "Marine-Tex" epoxy, but I would try the PC-7 first. > > > > Devon > > I used Marine-Tex on the cases of my '71 SL100 way back when and it > worked great. Haven't seen the stuff around lately, though. Devon's > right about cleaning the area--nothing will stick to oil. > > __Arden > > Checkout Dual Sport News at http://www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[Klemen]

I have a men's and women's First Gear Kilimanjaro jacket for sale. Both are size medium, with the men's being worn only 2 seasons and the women's hardly used. These jackets are completely waterproof and come with a nice liner. Injury forces sale. $150 each firm. Contact me by e-mail or call (916) 372-3382 for details........Klem