ss - carb pilot screw plug removal and adjustment procedure

[rmiller53a]

Posted this on the Super Sherpa list, but thought this may also prove useful here. CAUTION: Just be sure that you are dealing with the pilot screw cover seal whether it's brass (as on the 2002 Shepra) or aluminum. I followed some advice posted in this group's list on how to get access to and drill out the pilot adjustment screw BRASS cover. Here is a summary of the detailed steps taken to gain access to the pilot screw plug and adjust the pilot screw on a 2002 Super Sherpa: First, know where the pilot screw sealed cap is located. It is a BRASS round plug on the carb bottom towards the front of the bike. Next, know that to enrichen the pilot adjustment is to turn the screw OUT (counter - clockwise) Then begin the task: 1. Remove the left and right plastic side panels. 2. Remove the two side screws which fasten the seat and slide the seat off to the rear. 3. Remove the fuel tank two hold down screws at the top rear (exposed by removing the seat.) 4. Dissconnect the fuel tank vapor vent line from top rear fuel tank. 5. Dissconnect the fuel shut off valve small vacuum valve line and the carb inlet fuel line from petcock outlet. Caution: Be sure the PETCOCK fuel valce is NOT set on PRIME, but should be set in normal run so fuel doesn't run out of petcock once carb fuel line is disconnected. 6. Remove the fuel tank by sliding upwards and back. (Two large rubber grommets mounted on the frame interlock into grooves in the fuel tank inside panels.) 7. Now loosen the rubber carbruetor inlet clamps at both the engine and air box sides. You must also disconnect a rubber vent hose from the carb top side on the righthand (exhaust side) of the carb. I also moved the flexible rubber idle speed adjustor knob out of the clamp to provide slack for this to move when rotating the carb in its clamps. 8. Then Rotate the carbruetor to gain access to the bottom of the carb float bowl in order to drill out the BRASS plug covering the pilot jet screw. In order to twist the carb, you must slide the throttle and choke cables backward to the carb by moving the cables under the large black nylon wire wrap tie clamping the cables to the frame backbone. I twisted my carb counter clockwise when standing at the rear of the bike and looking to the front of the bike. In other words, the bottom of the carb was tilted out towards the exhaust pipe or right side of the bike. 9. After rotating the carb about 65 to 85 degrees, you can have sufficient clearance to use a small drill bit to drill out the small BRASS plug covering the pilot jet adjustment screw. This brass plug has a very small hole (orifice)I guess let's air into the pilot screw. 10. I used a portable electric variable speed drill and a 1/16 to 5/64 drill bit to enlarge the tiny hole in this BRASS plug to take a drywall screw. I only drilled deep enough to just penetrate the 1/8" thick brass plug. 11. Next turned a drywall screw very slightly into the brass plug and used pliers to pry out the brass plug exposing the pilot adjustment screw. 12. At this point I recommend you count the turns out the pilot adjustment screw is set from the factory by screwing it in until it lightly seats, counting and documenting the turns it takes. 13. Turn the pilot screw out from closed three full turns (at least that worked excellent for my 2002 Sherpa at sea level.) 14. Now you must reassemble in reverse order: the carb clamps, put the throttle and choke cables back to where they were in the clamps to the frame. Refasten the carb airbox and engine inlet duct clamps, (Reposition cables in clamps on the frame as necessary to get carb to rotate back to horizontal original mounting position.) replace the idle speed flex line in its clamp, reinstall the fuel tank, reconnect the fuel tank vent hose, reconnect fuel petcock vacuum line, and carb fuel inlet line to the fuel petcock. Fasten the fuel tank mounting bolts (use blue loctite (TM)). BE SURE TO CHECK throttle and choke cables for free and unbinding operation throughout the range of steeing movement. 15. Leave the plastic side panels off for the time being, but re- install the seat sliding it forward to interlock into the tang on the frame and tank top. Use blue Locktite on the two side seat bolts. 16. Next, check all over to be sure you haven't forgotten to replace any hoses, clamps, of bolts. 17. Start the bike as normal when cold, using prime and choke as required. (Some fuel may have drained out of the float bowl when it was rotated.) 18. Warm the bike up full and test ride it. 19. If you wish to tweak the pilot screw, it can be moved when the engine is cool (to avoid getting burned) by using a flat screw driver bit held by a small diameter rubber tubing. You can tweak the screw in perhaps 1/4 to 1/3 a turn or out perhaps 1/4 to 1/3 turn. 20. I found that my Sherpa worked just fine at three turns out from fully closed, was too lean at 2 turns out from fully closed, and too rich at 3-1/2 turns out from fully closed. ============ Russ Miller from Kinston, NC

[MSchue5938@aol.com]

i've got an '89 klr650 with 20,000 miles. i've babied it for 3 years- but the guys before me must have abused it because it just stopped and wouldn't start again- the shop got it started but now it has a loud knock. i'm in bend, oregon but can ship the engine to you- if your qualified and fair. and can update it to the most recent upgrades. mark schuette "bicycle carriers for motorcycles" [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Zachariah Mully]

On Sun, 2002-09-08 at 22:30, MSchue5938@... wrote:

> i've got an '89 klr650 with 20,000 miles. i've babied it for 3 years- but > the guys before me must have abused it because it just stopped and wouldn't > start again- the shop got it started but now it has a loud knock. > i'm in bend, oregon but can ship the engine to you- if your qualified and > fair. and can update it to the most recent upgrades. > > mark schuette > "bicycle carriers for motorcycles" >

Mark- Do you have any idea what the problem with the engine is? I am almost done dissassembling my second engine (haven't fixed anything yet) and you really only need two special tools (the magneto holder and puller, though a proper clutch holder would be nice as well) and a 30mm 6 point socket to dissassemble the engine. It's probably about 3 hours of work to strip it and figure another hour to tag and bag all the parts. If you've got the space and the time, I'd say do it yourself and once you locate the problem area if you can't fix it take it to a pro... You learn about the internals of your engine, plus get the satisfaction of doing yourself and hopefully doing it right You will need to replace a whole bunch of consumables; seals, gaskets, washers and use-once nuts and bolts. Good luck, Z DC

[Tengai650]

At 7:57 AM -0400 9/9/2002, Zachariah Mully wrote:

>I'd say do it yourself and once you >locate the problem area if you can't fix it take it to a pro... You >learn about the internals of your engine, plus get the satisfaction of >doing yourself and hopefully doing it right You will need to replace >a whole bunch of consumables; seals, gaskets....

Yes, and I have full engine gasket sets in stock for $60.00 shipped. 2 sets available. I also have top-end sets for $40.00 shipped. 2 sets available. Mark (shameless plug) B2 A2 A3